Alrighty...its me again with my needing of a thorough explanation of jacking the car up. I have seen the picture many times...my problem is this. I have a 2 and a half ton jack...and after getting the car maybe a couple of inches...the back of the jack starts raising. i don't hve the money to go get another jack...and besides..2 and a half tons...that should lift this thign if it lifts my uncles 3 ton truck....

Another thing...has anyone ever jacked anything up on a dirt or gravel surface? Just curious...

And lastly...is there anyway to jack just the front of the car up? Seeing as how I don't really need the back of the car in the air....is this possible at all? I have my jackstands...I was just wondering...

I had another question, but I don't remember it as of right now...l8er!

 

On another note I jacked my car up last night on an uneven gravel surface not a good idea. don't go under it. also I put my jack underneath the car and mistakenly put it too far under the car. the end of my jack put a hole under my drivers seat through the under coating! I will try to find a pic of where it went through.

 

raven,

I have jacked my Jeep up in my yard(dirt), but I put a 2X12 under the jack first(not under the wheels--sideways) to help distribute the weight and provide a firm surface--same with the jackstands. My guess is the back of the jack is lifting because it is digging into the dirt--why are you jacking the car, ramps may work better depending on what you are going to do.

 

You can put just the front of the car on stands. The whole side lifts at once, but just put your jackstands under the recommended spots up front, and let the back come down when you lower the jack. Repeat on the other side and you're good to go.

 

need to get to my slave cylinder...tried ramps...but the only ones I can seem to find will cause damage to the underbody and wheel wells...

 

Thanks Rich! sorry I altered it!

 

anyway someone can take that pic and circle where the slave cylinder is?

 

raven,

You need "rhino ramps" sold at pep boys, advanced, etc..unless your car is lowered, there should be no clearance issues. drive onto ramps--put jack under crossmember (just in case) since, unless you have removed it already, I have a feeling the starter bolts will take some convincing to break free.
don't forget to disconnect the battery, and have a shoplight--hard to see the mounting bolts for the slave.

 

Rhino ramps....rgr that....I will try it as soon as possible...

 

how hard do you think it would be to push it up there?

 

directly above the starter. crawl under, disconnect the 2 wires on the rear of starter, disconnect( 2) 19MM starter mounting bolts--remove starter--slave is right there.

 

My front valence did not clear even the Rhino Ramps, so I made some extensions with 2x8s. The PCA tech guys said some people have had success jacking the front with the cross member or the back with the transmission, but it was not recommended. They said to go with ramps or the side-to-side approach.

Up until this very post, I thought my car was at stock height, but it does have Koni adjustables so the PO may have lowered it thus explaining the Rhino clearance problem. Time to start worrying about squished ball joints and look at Rennbay's new kit!

 

Yellow: Slave Cylinder
Orange: Where the Starter should be (he removed it in this picture)

 

$19.99 at Pep Boys. I bought a pair last weekend and they work like a charm.

 

Bloodraven, the 951 is not easy to jack up, so don't think you're the only one who is confused. Ideally, you should not raise the car on an irregular surface like gravel, dirt or grass. Pavement works best. If you must, I guess you can get creative using plywood boards, etc. as has been suggested.

My European spec 951 is a bit lower than the U.S. cars and to raise it in front I need to drive the front wheels onto some bricks first, so I can get enough clearance to fit the jack underneath the car.

The best place to support the front of the car are the frame rails. These are located toward the center, just inboard from where the control arms attach to the crossmember. They look like a plank stuck sideways onto the chassis.

Depending on the kind of jackstands you have, it may be harder to support the car by the frame rails. I use heavy pipe stands with round tops and put hockey pucks in between to protect the undercoating.

To get the car up, I momentarily use the donuts right behind the front wheel arches and quickly position a jackstand underneath the frame rails. I never use the crossmember because it's covered by the engine protection pan and I can't tell exactly what's beneath it.

Good luck and be careful.