Matt O.

So no fuel is getting to the rail. Ideas? I already changed the DME relay, that didn't do it. The fuel pump fuse is good to go.

Any ideas on how to bypass the alarm in case that is the problem?

Or any other ideas I would be greatful.

Thanks,
Matt

Dave

Have you checked for voltage at the fuel pump? Check valve is functioning properly?

Turby

Try to manually ingage the fuel pump from the DME.....basicly touch the middle connector in the DME so It makes contact......you should hear fuel pump run.....

jaibeiber

it is probably your alarm. there is a pin that you have to ground. do a search you will find it. i had to with mine.

User 41221

Ground pins 1 and 4 together.

Regards,

Luis de Prat

Matt, I hope it works for you. One suggestion on the thread though, you may want to ask for this kind of "sensitive" info to be PM'ed to you next time. Someone reprimanded us once for posting this stuff on another thread, and it makes sense. Lurkers may not be as well intentioned as we'd like to think.

ribs

That worked for me (mine started going off every time I opened the door, whether the alarm was armed or not): https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ighlight=alarm

Best of luck.

Matt O.

Guys, thanks for the information. Good point about lurkers.

Another question though...

If I have the 968 engine, the 968 DME (plugged in), and the 968 alarm box (plugged in), shouldn't that work? Or should I still ground the pins 1 and 4? Are you talking 1 and 4 on the 968 alarm or were you referring to the 944 alarm box?

Also, I jumped the fuel pump and it pumps fine, but still getting no spark, even after gapping the flywheel sensor. Would the alarm also cause no spark?

Thanks,
Matt

kevin Dubois

yes the alarm basically stops the turn on signal to the DME relay. if the alarm is still there and is not deactivated, you will get no spark and no fuel. if you remove the alarm, you basically have to run a 12 switched power supply to the lead going to the DME relay. this is done at the alarm conenction by connecting two of the pins. i will have to check my diagrams to be certain which ones they are on the 968 (and actually i'm not sure if my diagrams have the 968 in them). anyway, if this doesn't solve the problem right away, you can ground another pin at the engine harness right by the brake booster. it worked both times for me. i can get you a pin number for that one too. but yes, if you want to be 100% sure it is the alarm, try the DME relay hardwire method. if this works you know that the alarm is the problem. to do the DME hardwire, you need to remove the relay and make a jumper to connect three pins, 30 to 87 and 87b. all these need to be connected together. jumpering these will provide power to the fuel pump, and the DME giving you spark. if this doesn't work you will have problems elsewhere. i will get you the alarm bypass pin numbers that i used on jaibeibers car.

kevin Dubois

ok, the pin you should ground at the brake booster connection for the engine harness is pin 5. it is black/green. just to be sure, becuase i don't know if this is going to be the same for the 968 harness, i would use a DMM to see if there is zero voltage on that pin even when the car is on. then check for continuity to the chasis with the car off, then with the car on. i'm guess it will read 0 V always and no continuity to the chasis ground. if this is the case, the ground that pin without braking the line, just "T" in a grounding wire and bolt it down somewhere ( i did it right on the screw that holds the connector cover down)

Matt O.

Kevin,

Jumping 30/87/87b did not start the car.

I am getting pretty frustrated, and completely running out of time. I only have a few more days before I have to put this car on a trailer and more to Florida.

-Matt

seb928s

Where in Florida? Maybe near me I can come help you out with it can't tell you if I will be any help but I can give you an extra hand. You said you got the fuel pump running with that jump right? Talk to me on AIM once you get a chance. So you are missing the spark. Atleast you narrowed it down a bit more now. Try grounding the alarm by those pins.

kevin Dubois

matt here are a few things you should try:

if your starter is hooked up, check for compression. this is what me any my brother tried doing early in the install (with the engine out), and we could not get any readings (because we figured we were doing the compression check wrong but we were doing it right...). unfortunately we were stupid and continued putting the engine in. then when everything was working, we tried it again and realized that there were 16 smashed valves, and there was not any compression so the car would not start.

do you have any fuel pressure at all? does the fuel pump turn on ever?

do you have any spark at all? pull a plug out and try starting the car. smell for fuel in the cylinder (an easy indication of fuel pressure), and watch to see if the plug generates a spark.

do you still have the alarm brain hooked up? or have you removed it?


give me an e-mail of everything you have tried and i can do my best to help you. i have read over the wiring diagrams a million times for my brothers car and my car. i know the 968 is a little different but i think i can still help you solve your problem.

i think people are a little scared that we are posting this information (although when i needed it, having this information would have been extremely useful. but there was nothing in the archives. so i think it is good to get the information out there. )

kevin Dubois

oh one other thing, take your DMM (asuming you have one) and check to see if pin 30 has 12V when the car is turned on (you don't need to start it) if pin 30 sees 12 V then we have a good idea of where to go to next.

Turby

I am having exactly the same problem in my 968 to 944 turbo engine project.......I am too stumped. I am at the point, where I might replace the main harness (already replaced the front with a turbo).......... Not going to be fun....man I hate electrical. Matt, call me when you get a chance Happy cinco de myo!!!