Tools for a 944 Turbo
#17
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http://www.hmc-international.com/krikit.htm . It seems to work well enough...my belt hasn't snapped and its been a few thousand miles.
#18
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Going with Crafstman for most of the common tools is Ok but I would recommend going with Snap-On for the Allen bits and the tripple square bits. Much higher quality where you need it the most.
I put together a tool kit to keep in the car, all Snap-On, for about $500. Combination wrenches, 3/8 drive wratchet, sockets, extensions, spark plug socket, couple screw drivers, pliers, soft socket for lug nuts and tripple square for axels and couple allens, 3/8" drive type. Kinda expensive but classy.
Have fun shopping,
Bill
I put together a tool kit to keep in the car, all Snap-On, for about $500. Combination wrenches, 3/8 drive wratchet, sockets, extensions, spark plug socket, couple screw drivers, pliers, soft socket for lug nuts and tripple square for axels and couple allens, 3/8" drive type. Kinda expensive but classy.
Have fun shopping,
Bill
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#19
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Flare nut wrenches are a must for brake jobs.
Ive got a nice Craftsman breaker bar.
Good torque wrench... Ive... "adopted" my dads, it goes from like 8 ft/lbs up to like... 150 or something, VERY nice unit. Glad I didnt have to pay for it![Stick Out Tongue](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
Overall ive been quite happy with the Craftsmen stuff I have so far.
Ive got a nice Craftsman breaker bar.
Good torque wrench... Ive... "adopted" my dads, it goes from like 8 ft/lbs up to like... 150 or something, VERY nice unit. Glad I didnt have to pay for it
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Overall ive been quite happy with the Craftsmen stuff I have so far.
#20
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You can get the Kricket from any local Napa Autoparts. You need the KR-1 version, the KR-2 is meant for higher tension belts i think. The KR-1 has yellow plastic parts, while the KR-2 has green.
I found it as peace of mind to keep a set of tools in my car full time, it actually came in handy once when i changed my upper radiator hose, the clamp nearest the radiatior was caught on the headlight linkage making the lights not go up all the way. Had to perform some quick work at the Jersey side of the Holland Tunnel, had a bunch of bums around me asking for change and if i wanted help...etc. Managed to get it fixed with my crappy $25 60-piece set of tools from Autobarn.
I would like to carry something a little better, but the weight of the tools can get pretty extensive, not to mention carrying around an expensive set of tools in a car that isnt the hardest to break into.
I found it as peace of mind to keep a set of tools in my car full time, it actually came in handy once when i changed my upper radiator hose, the clamp nearest the radiatior was caught on the headlight linkage making the lights not go up all the way. Had to perform some quick work at the Jersey side of the Holland Tunnel, had a bunch of bums around me asking for change and if i wanted help...etc. Managed to get it fixed with my crappy $25 60-piece set of tools from Autobarn.
I would like to carry something a little better, but the weight of the tools can get pretty extensive, not to mention carrying around an expensive set of tools in a car that isnt the hardest to break into.
#21
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Im reviving this thread b/c i wanted to find a set of tools for my 944. I only have a few tools and know I will need more. I just bought this 944 and I tell my wife I want tools for Christmas... she says, "You need tools for this thing too? You bought a car you have to work on?" She loves me, but we've never had a car that needed attention like this one will.
So, to the point, what tools are on your Christmas list? (Realistic tools, not "The entire Snap-On line-up")
So, to the point, what tools are on your Christmas list? (Realistic tools, not "The entire Snap-On line-up")
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#22
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#23
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Come on, a full set of Snap-On tools is only about $50,000...consider it an investment!
What exactly do you have to work with right now? Im considering buying the lightweight aluminum jack that Craftsman just put out. Its really nice, about $130.00.
What exactly do you have to work with right now? Im considering buying the lightweight aluminum jack that Craftsman just put out. Its really nice, about $130.00.
#24
Race Director
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There's a couple tools that saves me a tonne of time in working with these cars.
Flex-head wratchet wrench with angled handle
![](https://members.rennlist.com/951_racerx/SpecialWrench.jpg)
10mm and 13mm socket with built-in universal wobble
![](https://members.rennlist.com/951_racerx/SocketUniversal13mm.jpg)
Get the 10mm one in 1/4" drive along with 6", 9" and 12" extensions. Saves a lot of time in working on the throttle-cable bracket and the dip-stick tube where they attach to the intake-manifold. Works wonders on the bolt inside the heat-shield that holds the turbo water-pump bracket.
magnetic pick-up on a telescoping rod
ratcheting Gear-Wrench open/closed-end wrenches
![](http://www.arizonatools.com/img/products/K/KDT9417.JPG)
These also come with the flex-head that flops as well to reach tight spots.
In general, I prefer to use extensions and a ratchet-wrench rather than open-end wrenches because you can get clearance to spin the wrench continuously in 360-degrees rather than going back and forth with the ratcheting close-end of the wrenches. Much, much faster. In fact, I want to do a video where I can take the entire engine apart from sitting in a lawn-chair in front of the car. Just needs the right combination of extensions to reach every single nut and bolt on the car.
Flex-head wratchet wrench with angled handle
![](https://members.rennlist.com/951_racerx/SpecialWrench.jpg)
10mm and 13mm socket with built-in universal wobble
![](https://members.rennlist.com/951_racerx/SocketUniversal13mm.jpg)
Get the 10mm one in 1/4" drive along with 6", 9" and 12" extensions. Saves a lot of time in working on the throttle-cable bracket and the dip-stick tube where they attach to the intake-manifold. Works wonders on the bolt inside the heat-shield that holds the turbo water-pump bracket.
magnetic pick-up on a telescoping rod
ratcheting Gear-Wrench open/closed-end wrenches
These also come with the flex-head that flops as well to reach tight spots.
In general, I prefer to use extensions and a ratchet-wrench rather than open-end wrenches because you can get clearance to spin the wrench continuously in 360-degrees rather than going back and forth with the ratcheting close-end of the wrenches. Much, much faster. In fact, I want to do a video where I can take the entire engine apart from sitting in a lawn-chair in front of the car. Just needs the right combination of extensions to reach every single nut and bolt on the car.
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#25
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I have nice 6mm and 5mm t-handled allen keys that are great. They work well with removing the interior cam bolts, throttle body, and the wheel bearings. It would be difficult to work on the wheel bearings without that tool.
#26
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A good collection of extensions, u-joints, and socket adapters is vital for these cars, as many bolts are a real PIA to reach by conventional means. The 13mm and 10mm sockets with the built in wobble joint that dan shows above are clutch for a variety of jobs where space is tight. A telescoping inspection mirror with magnetic pickup and a very good light are helpful too, as is the motive powerbleeder.
#27
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Danno is right, gearwrenches are the ****. If youre just a kid looking to work on his car occasionally....try craftsman or even harbor freight.
Expensive tools won't make you a better mechanic. Specific tools can make the job faster, but theyll empty the bank account even quicker.
I use:
craftsman sockets (deep & shallow) from 6 to 32mm, gearwrenches, "deluxe" screwdriver set, extentions & adapters
harbor freight wrenches (8 to 24mm), offset wrenches, pliers, torque wrenches
good year jack & 4 stands (cost co)
and a few other CHEAP tools
I have done an engine transplant, headgasket, exhaust several times, timing belt, suspension ****, you name it...haven't broken a tool yet.
Most importantly, if a craftsman or harbor freight tool breaks...you take it right back and get a new one...
Most oftEn, people strip bolts due to the improper useage of tools. For example...you should hammer in 12-point tools or some allens before applying torque to them. Simple stuff like that leads people to strip bolts torqued at 12 lb/ft and leaves me seriously confused.
Expensive tools won't make you a better mechanic. Specific tools can make the job faster, but theyll empty the bank account even quicker.
I use:
craftsman sockets (deep & shallow) from 6 to 32mm, gearwrenches, "deluxe" screwdriver set, extentions & adapters
harbor freight wrenches (8 to 24mm), offset wrenches, pliers, torque wrenches
good year jack & 4 stands (cost co)
and a few other CHEAP tools
I have done an engine transplant, headgasket, exhaust several times, timing belt, suspension ****, you name it...haven't broken a tool yet.
Most importantly, if a craftsman or harbor freight tool breaks...you take it right back and get a new one...
Most oftEn, people strip bolts due to the improper useage of tools. For example...you should hammer in 12-point tools or some allens before applying torque to them. Simple stuff like that leads people to strip bolts torqued at 12 lb/ft and leaves me seriously confused.
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#29
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Originally Posted by SD Porsche Fan
Doesn't Craftsman make a "professional" line of sockets that are of better quality but don't cost as much as Snap-On or MAC?
No problems with Craftsman, yet ive snapped a Snap-On extension. Go figure. Oh wait, I broke a Craftsman universal joint. I was using a 1/4" with adapters to a 1/2" socket for a big bolt and cranking the hell out of it
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#30
Race Director
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Yeah, the Sears Professional tools are pretty good. I don't know if they better or worse than Snap-on/MAC, but they're definitely better than the ordinary Craftsman.
Another thing you'll find helpful is custom-made tools for a single specific bolt/nut on the car. I just pull out the grinder and torch and make my own the very first time I need it, that way I won't waste hours trying to get a stubborn bolt only to have to make the tool later, doubling up on the time. Things like the single bolt on the turbo's crossover flange with the welded-nut that can only be reached from the bottom. Too tight for a ratchet & socket, so a closed-end 15mm wrench is the only thing that'll fit. but it's too short to get enough leverage to undo that bolt. So I welded an extra 4" handle to it. That's the longest that'll fit and be able to swing without hitting the downpipe flange.
I've also made my own spring-compressors to work on the valves & head. Rather than generic tools that require a lot of adjustment, the 944/951 specific tool lets me take apart and assemble the valves on the head in less than 5-minutes.
BTW- with the advancement of nano-technology and micro-machines, I'm looking forward to the day when GearWrenches include their own built-in motors. You just hold the wrench on the bolt, push a button and it automatically spins it on/off..
Another thing you'll find helpful is custom-made tools for a single specific bolt/nut on the car. I just pull out the grinder and torch and make my own the very first time I need it, that way I won't waste hours trying to get a stubborn bolt only to have to make the tool later, doubling up on the time. Things like the single bolt on the turbo's crossover flange with the welded-nut that can only be reached from the bottom. Too tight for a ratchet & socket, so a closed-end 15mm wrench is the only thing that'll fit. but it's too short to get enough leverage to undo that bolt. So I welded an extra 4" handle to it. That's the longest that'll fit and be able to swing without hitting the downpipe flange.
I've also made my own spring-compressors to work on the valves & head. Rather than generic tools that require a lot of adjustment, the 944/951 specific tool lets me take apart and assemble the valves on the head in less than 5-minutes.
BTW- with the advancement of nano-technology and micro-machines, I'm looking forward to the day when GearWrenches include their own built-in motors. You just hold the wrench on the bolt, push a button and it automatically spins it on/off..
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