one problem after another (oil pump?)
#16
Nordschleife Master
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i know you wouldn't, or else you would have already, I meant others here, cause they tend to tell people that sometimes. The problem with the GTI is that eventually the urge would get to strong, and a 951 drivtrain would find its way into the GTI, and It would become AWD, Suspension, strip weight, etc etc... then one day I'm going to realize I no longer have a daily driver, just two 951 engines that break. lol. (its a sickness, we all have it)
~Eyal
~Eyal
#17
Nordschleife Master
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It sure wouldn't hurt to check that nut on the pulley, either. Maybe it walked?
And Oil Sending Units DO go bad suddenly!
- Julie
And Oil Sending Units DO go bad suddenly!
- Julie
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nah, i can go through the whole engine, another time though. Danno has been in there before.
I should also mention that when the noise was being made, i touched the top of the oil filter, and it was vibrating with the noise.
~Eyal
I should also mention that when the noise was being made, i touched the top of the oil filter, and it was vibrating with the noise.
~Eyal
#20
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Originally posted by Eyal 951
nah, i can go through the whole engine, another time though. Danno has been in there before.
I should also mention that when the noise was being made, i touched the top of the oil filter, and it was vibrating with the noise.
~Eyal
nah, i can go through the whole engine, another time though. Danno has been in there before.
I should also mention that when the noise was being made, i touched the top of the oil filter, and it was vibrating with the noise.
~Eyal
#21
Nordschleife Master
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What he said ^
#23
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There were no upgraded OPRV's for the later cars that came with a one piece valve. Only cars that originally came with a 3 piece valve can "upgrade" to a one piece valve.
In your case, Eyal, some people have gotten rid of that moaning just by replacing the two o-rings on the one piece OPRV assembly. Others have had to replace the whole valve. I happen to have a brand new one that I'd sell for far less than what the dealer wants but I'd suggest trying new o-rings first (I can tell you the sizes you'll need) and seeing what happens.
In your case, Eyal, some people have gotten rid of that moaning just by replacing the two o-rings on the one piece OPRV assembly. Others have had to replace the whole valve. I happen to have a brand new one that I'd sell for far less than what the dealer wants but I'd suggest trying new o-rings first (I can tell you the sizes you'll need) and seeing what happens.
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alright;
1) sizes of the 0-rings please!
2) how much you want? how much the dealer want?
3) can I get a procedure, or shall I just refer to the 944 bible, clarks?
~Eyal
1) sizes of the 0-rings please!
2) how much you want? how much the dealer want?
3) can I get a procedure, or shall I just refer to the 944 bible, clarks?
~Eyal
#27
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1. 2 o-rings, both the same size. Approx. 12.5 ID x 2mm cross section. Very difficult to measure an o-ring, especially one that has been stretched over a shaft for quite some time.
2. I'm asking $150 shipped. Dealer gets about $300
3. Procedure is remove old one and thread in the new one. Make sure it goes in and out easily with no binding though. If it binds, you'll need to loosen the mounting bolts for the housing, align it either by feel or with the alignment tool, and then reinstall.
2. I'm asking $150 shipped. Dealer gets about $300
3. Procedure is remove old one and thread in the new one. Make sure it goes in and out easily with no binding though. If it binds, you'll need to loosen the mounting bolts for the housing, align it either by feel or with the alignment tool, and then reinstall.
Originally posted by Eyal 951
alright;
1) sizes of the 0-rings please!
2) how much you want? how much the dealer want?
3) can I get a procedure, or shall I just refer to the 944 bible, clarks?
~Eyal
alright;
1) sizes of the 0-rings please!
2) how much you want? how much the dealer want?
3) can I get a procedure, or shall I just refer to the 944 bible, clarks?
~Eyal
#28
Three Wheelin'
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Eyal:
Did this problem start right after you did the oil cooler seals? If so, there are several potential culprits. They have been identified by the others, but you need to go through a process of elimination first.
Do you have the tool to align the oil filter housing on the engine block? If not, get one and redo that procedure. Replace the o-ring on the OPRV and the crush ring each time you remove it.
Verify that the sender is connected correctly. This is easy to do. One post is for the warning light, and the other is variable for a pressure reading. If it stays pegged, it is either faulty or wired incorrectly.
If one of the above two do not fix the problem, buy the new OPRV from Joe. New ones are very expensive at the dealer, but essential. You have to use new o-rings every time you take it out per the factory manual. My '87 & '88 engines only had one o-ring on the OPRV. Getting a spare is a good idea anyway.
I would not drive the car until you sort this out. If you need an alignment tool, let me know. I bought a second one because I thought I had lost the first one. I found it later in a box of spare parts. Oops! $35 out the window.
Did this problem start right after you did the oil cooler seals? If so, there are several potential culprits. They have been identified by the others, but you need to go through a process of elimination first.
Do you have the tool to align the oil filter housing on the engine block? If not, get one and redo that procedure. Replace the o-ring on the OPRV and the crush ring each time you remove it.
Verify that the sender is connected correctly. This is easy to do. One post is for the warning light, and the other is variable for a pressure reading. If it stays pegged, it is either faulty or wired incorrectly.
If one of the above two do not fix the problem, buy the new OPRV from Joe. New ones are very expensive at the dealer, but essential. You have to use new o-rings every time you take it out per the factory manual. My '87 & '88 engines only had one o-ring on the OPRV. Getting a spare is a good idea anyway.
I would not drive the car until you sort this out. If you need an alignment tool, let me know. I bought a second one because I thought I had lost the first one. I found it later in a box of spare parts. Oops! $35 out the window.
#29
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The second o-ring that I mentioned is used to hold the threaded hex cap onto the relief valve body. Ever noticed how the cap can rock a bit? That's b/c all that it is retained by is an undercut on the cap and that o-ring.
#30
Three Wheelin'
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The cap rocks for sure. So you pull the cap off and change that one too. At $300 for the valve, I have been afraid to mess with them much. I learn something new every day. I have a spare oprv off of a crispy critter that I may "experiment" on.