Billet Torsion carrier mounts..
#61
Rennlist Member
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Please share your feedback when mounted on car and some photos if possible :-)
#62
Drifting
#63
Rennlist Member
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Funny, I’ve shipped like over of dozen of these, and no feedback at all. I think I need to assume these are installed and work as intended, so everyone quickly forgets about leaving the feedback ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Anyone, please?
It’s cool that there are cars half a world away with parts I designed in my garage and I’d love to see any of those cars in a picture in this thread
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Anyone, please?
It’s cool that there are cars half a world away with parts I designed in my garage and I’d love to see any of those cars in a picture in this thread
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#64
Three Wheelin'
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I haven't fitted mine yet as I'm saving them to do with some other rear suspension work but I will send you a PM
#65
Instructor
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Gave some feedback earlier in the thread - still haven't fitted mine as I'm mega slow restoring the back end of my car. Just finished touching up some rust spots on the chassis so will be getting the torque tube back in and then the torsion bar assembly. Will add some pictures of those aluminium mounts as soon as I get around to it
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#66
Instructor
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@konrad911 I've just come to fit these after many many months.
I've noticed that the bearing flange mount that holds the aluminium bearing flange at the end of the torsion tube has an M8 (8mm) stud, the factory mount uses an M10 (10mm) stud. Is there a particular reason for this? I'm concerned that this could be a failure point when the suspension is under load due to the difference in diameter. I'm surprised no one else has mentioned this when fitting!?!
![](http://i.imgur.com/hqTm7usm.jpg)
Regards David
I've noticed that the bearing flange mount that holds the aluminium bearing flange at the end of the torsion tube has an M8 (8mm) stud, the factory mount uses an M10 (10mm) stud. Is there a particular reason for this? I'm concerned that this could be a failure point when the suspension is under load due to the difference in diameter. I'm surprised no one else has mentioned this when fitting!?!
![](http://i.imgur.com/hqTm7usm.jpg)
Regards David
#67
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Interesting…
What car you are fitting these to? Maybe there was a difference between 924/944/968?
Don’t be worried about the strength, these are all hardened steel + helicoil inserts and best quality billet aluminium.
I made these based on my Euro 924 Turbo MY81 mounts. I use them also in my 944 Turbo S. Haven’t noticed that in either of the cars honestly.
What car you are fitting these to? Maybe there was a difference between 924/944/968?
Don’t be worried about the strength, these are all hardened steel + helicoil inserts and best quality billet aluminium.
I made these based on my Euro 924 Turbo MY81 mounts. I use them also in my 944 Turbo S. Haven’t noticed that in either of the cars honestly.
#68
Instructor
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Interesting…
What car you are fitting these to? Maybe there was a difference between 924/944/968?
Don’t be worried about the strength, these are all hardened steel + helicoil inserts and best quality billet aluminium.
I made these based on my Euro 924 Turbo MY81 mounts. I use them also in my 944 Turbo S. Haven’t noticed that in either of the cars honestly.
What car you are fitting these to? Maybe there was a difference between 924/944/968?
Don’t be worried about the strength, these are all hardened steel + helicoil inserts and best quality billet aluminium.
I made these based on my Euro 924 Turbo MY81 mounts. I use them also in my 944 Turbo S. Haven’t noticed that in either of the cars honestly.
The square washer that tightens down on the aluminium bearing flange has a 10mm hole and also the slot in the flange is 10mm.
I think I will have to get the local engineering shop to modify the mount and fit a larger M10 stud for peace of mind.
1990 944
![](http://i.imgur.com/6r4lnBtl.jpg)
1982 924
![](http://i.imgur.com/gfBXeDQl.jpg)
#69
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I need to investigate! :-) Many thanks for the feedback.
Talk to the machine shop, they will tell you to leave as is I expect, but there is plenty of room to replace the stud with 10mm one, so if that will make you feel better give it a try :-)
Just remember, you will increase weight by few grams! :-)))
Talk to the machine shop, they will tell you to leave as is I expect, but there is plenty of room to replace the stud with 10mm one, so if that will make you feel better give it a try :-)
Just remember, you will increase weight by few grams! :-)))
#70
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I've got an '88 944 track car that would LOVE to have these mounts on it! the slightly rough/OE look would be perfect for me, but if a majority of the batch is all going the same color, I'll conform to that just to make things easier on your end
#71
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The challenge is CNC machining. They want "series"... The bare minimum is 5 sets, so for the next batch we need to find at least 3 more people (I will take 1 set for my shelf).
So to begin with something for the upcoming batch:
1. BumpHeadRacing - 1 set in OEM like finish
2. konrad911 - 1 set in black
3 ...
4 ...
5 ...
#72
Burning Brakes
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Finally fitted mine. Would recommend chasing the chassis threads with a tap prior to install. I installed, realized it wasn't working, pulled the mounts, chased the chassis threads, then reinstalled - learn from my error ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Unfortunately I don't have an apples to apples comparison as I also changed T-bars and all of the mounts to solid (with the exception of the spring plate, which looked to be a fitment nightmare due to the imprecise casting from the factory). But - I went from having a car with unlimited front end grip (-3 degrees front camber with solid A arm and steering mounts) and little rear grip to actually having near perfect balance. Looking forward to the next autocross!
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Unfortunately I don't have an apples to apples comparison as I also changed T-bars and all of the mounts to solid (with the exception of the spring plate, which looked to be a fitment nightmare due to the imprecise casting from the factory). But - I went from having a car with unlimited front end grip (-3 degrees front camber with solid A arm and steering mounts) and little rear grip to actually having near perfect balance. Looking forward to the next autocross!
Last edited by GTSilver944; 07-24-2023 at 11:34 PM.
#73
Instructor
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Some pointers from my install -
1. Clean chassis threads with a tap or similar
2. Install the mounts to the chassis and then attach the torsion bar to the mounts (not the other way around), more on this below
3. If you didn't remove it when dropping the torsion bar, remove the aluminium cross strut that runs underneath the torque tube
4. Fit torsion bar (ensure when lifting the torsion bar into place that you keep it level)
5. Refit aluminium cross strut
I started by attaching the mounts to the torsion bar, this is a mistake and if you have just painted your chassis (like me) you will end up scratching the paint with the mounts when locating the torsion bar into place. If you attach the mounts to the chassis and then attach the torsion bar after you've lifted it into place you are less likely to damage the paint on the chassis. You will also find it hard, possibly impossible to lift the torsion bar into place with the aluminium cross strut in place that runs under the torque tube. The locating clips for the parking brake cable get caught on the strut when installing the torsion bar, removing the strut makes it much easier to install the torsion bar.
Some pictures of the mounts installed
![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
![](http://i.imgur.com/Hdvv4V1l.jpg)
![](http://i.imgur.com/RnwsSZPl.jpg)
A huge thank you to @konrad911 who kindly offered to help me out with the replacement of the studs on my mounts. Really happy with the mounts and fitment and looking forward to experiencing the ride when the car is back running again!
Last edited by dlknight; 08-04-2023 at 09:36 AM.
#74
Rennlist Member
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@dlknight thanks for the howto and the feedback
it is a very clean car you have, are you going to drive it? ha ha
Nice to see you guys managed to install these. It’s really challenging excersize for DIY.
Just to give you an idea, in my 931 the gearbox is mounted also on the torsion bar carrier, so in addition to manipulating the suspension stuff, in 931 in you need to figure out a way to keep the tranny in place![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Happy driving!
it is a very clean car you have, are you going to drive it? ha ha
Nice to see you guys managed to install these. It’s really challenging excersize for DIY.
Just to give you an idea, in my 931 the gearbox is mounted also on the torsion bar carrier, so in addition to manipulating the suspension stuff, in 931 in you need to figure out a way to keep the tranny in place
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Happy driving!
#75
Rennlist Member
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Thanks for the interest. The finish alone is an easy part, the place I'm taking parts for anodising is kind enough even to do a single piece as I want it.
The challenge is CNC machining. They want "series"... The bare minimum is 5 sets, so for the next batch we need to find at least 3 more people (I will take 1 set for my shelf).
So to begin with something for the upcoming batch:
1. BumpHeadRacing - 1 set in OEM like finish
2. konrad911 - 1 set in black
3 ...
4 ...
5 ...
The challenge is CNC machining. They want "series"... The bare minimum is 5 sets, so for the next batch we need to find at least 3 more people (I will take 1 set for my shelf).
So to begin with something for the upcoming batch:
1. BumpHeadRacing - 1 set in OEM like finish
2. konrad911 - 1 set in black
3 ...
4 ...
5 ...
count with me OEM finish