The Atkins diet for a 944...lose weight, feel great!
#16
My spec car runs 2450 lbs with 50lbs of ballast and full roll cage.
Stuff done/changed...
Fully Gutted interior (no carpet /sound proofing)
Fixed Sun Roof
Manual rear hatch (removed all motors)
No A/C
No headlights
Manual Steering
One race seat
Removed heat shielding in engine compartment
225/50 Toyo's on 15x7 Cookie cutters
Stuff Still in the car
Stock Glass in all windows
Operating power windows
Heater box & core (no fluid in it)
Blower motor
Stock steel body panels
Stock underbody coating.
Stuff done/changed...
Fully Gutted interior (no carpet /sound proofing)
Fixed Sun Roof
Manual rear hatch (removed all motors)
No A/C
No headlights
Manual Steering
One race seat
Removed heat shielding in engine compartment
225/50 Toyo's on 15x7 Cookie cutters
Stuff Still in the car
Stock Glass in all windows
Operating power windows
Heater box & core (no fluid in it)
Blower motor
Stock steel body panels
Stock underbody coating.
#17
I'd really like to see what my car's weight will be down to once I dump the A/C. It already came with no rear wiper, no linkage or anything to the rear hatch, manual locks, and manual steering. Took out that crappy foam from under the hood too.
#18
#21
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#26
Yeah, my 951 16x7/8" Fuchs weighed 15.5/16.5 lbs each; a little lighter than the 911 Fuchs of the same size. Not gonna find a better wheel really. I had 17" Techno Twist copies and they were 25 lbs each! Not sure where GT-racing gets their before weights, but they all tend to be on the heavy side... by a lot! My hood weighed about 45-lbs and when you get the GT-racing CF or fibreglass hood, you still have to transfer the stock reinforcements underneath and the hood-shocks over. So the actual savings isn't as much as they claim. The fit and finish is also horrible! Nothing like the CF stuff you can get for the Mustangs and Honduhs. Plan on at least 1-3 hours each on sanding and finishing the GT-racing panels.
#27
Well, they seem to sell 2 versions. One bare hood requiring the support transferred over (450), or a complete ready to bolt on hood (650).
I don't know...if I had the money (which I don't), I wouldn't care too much about finish if I knew it was gonna save me a minimum of 25 lbs. I've never been a big cosmetic guy.
But it's something to think about for the future.
I'm sure if I could get enough buyers, I could get C/F hoods made for the same cost or maybe less. I did that on my last car...just had a 1-off done. And it was cheaper than Fiber Images wanted for the same application...by some $225 bucks!
I don't know...if I had the money (which I don't), I wouldn't care too much about finish if I knew it was gonna save me a minimum of 25 lbs. I've never been a big cosmetic guy.
But it's something to think about for the future.
I'm sure if I could get enough buyers, I could get C/F hoods made for the same cost or maybe less. I did that on my last car...just had a 1-off done. And it was cheaper than Fiber Images wanted for the same application...by some $225 bucks!
#28
Just a car guy
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,927
Likes: 836
From: South Lyon, Michigan, Ewe Ess Eh
Don't forget the rubber sound deadner inside the fenders. There must be 30+ pounds of this stuff! How about those big plastic inner fender shields? Do you need those? How about the front tie down hooks? Think about weight distribution as well. Maybe relocate the battery further rearward and lower (perhaps behind where the passenger's seat would normally be).
If you are serious - strip the interior and decide what is neccessary and what can go. Then get the car off the ground and start unbolting everything else that comes off. If you need to keep it - see if it can be made from a lighter, alternate material.
I went through such an exercise about 11 years ago when I built my autocross racer. I looked through the "Prepared" class rules to see what was legal. I started with a "Production" class rally car that weighed about 2650 lbs. When I was done the car weighed 1550! I had to put back 130 lbs to make it legal for the size engine I run. It is a fun an interesting exercise.
If you are serious - strip the interior and decide what is neccessary and what can go. Then get the car off the ground and start unbolting everything else that comes off. If you need to keep it - see if it can be made from a lighter, alternate material.
I went through such an exercise about 11 years ago when I built my autocross racer. I looked through the "Prepared" class rules to see what was legal. I started with a "Production" class rally car that weighed about 2650 lbs. When I was done the car weighed 1550! I had to put back 130 lbs to make it legal for the size engine I run. It is a fun an interesting exercise.
#30
Just a car guy
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,927
Likes: 836
From: South Lyon, Michigan, Ewe Ess Eh
Originally posted by Chris_924s
Start with a 924S..
Lexan windows. Oh, and How do you get underbody coating OFF??!!
Start with a 924S..
Lexan windows. Oh, and How do you get underbody coating OFF??!!
This is not a fun job - but there is a lot of weight savings to be had for the dedicated and patient.