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Assuming you have a multi-day project, they’re well worth it. They take maybe 30 min to set up, so I don’t use them for rotations and such, simply because my speed jack on the center lift point is so much quicker. But they were great for my week-long brake refurb.
Initially, I had several problems with my Quickjack. Now that they've been sorted out, I have to say I'm loving them. Except for one thing: They're a PITA to move around on the floor, and you WILL scrape the paint off the bottom. Get it wet such as when washing out wheel wells, and it will rust quickly. Now I've got to fix that.
I just picked up the bearing for this "hack" today.
On the 911 wouldn't it make sense to position the QuickJack with the lock bar/cylinder/ pointing towards the rear (heavy end), so the weighted end is over the lock bar/cylinder? I've seen this mentioned in YouTube videos, but don't see any reference in the instruction manual.
Yes, absolutely. I have a 968 and a newer 911 - and I have to flip the orientation of the QuickJack front to back on the 911 (yellow label under the rear of the car) since it was very unstable when not done properly. Weight and fulcrums are important.
And for the Original Poster - I hope you found your answer - I had a QuickJack setup for changing wheels on the 911, then I got the 968 and it is amazing how nice it is to be able to raise/lower the car at will and with 2 height/locks the ability to reach different areas of the engine/interior and/or crawl under is amazing. Highly recommended.
That's my concern too. I'd like to purchase a QuickJack while they are on sale at Costco, but I don't see any valid jacking point for the front of my 951. The round protrusion in the front that attaches to the floor isn't a valid jacking point as it was just used by the factory during production.
That's my concern too. I'd like to purchase a QuickJack while they are on sale at Costco, but I don't see any valid jacking point for the front of my 951. The round protrusion in the front that attaches to the floor isn't a valid jacking point as it was just used by the factory during production.
If it was good enough for the factory, why isn't it good enough for us? I had my car sitting on four points, with the front being those protrusions for about a year with no problems at all. I think the issue is if you stick a standard floor jack under there and use it as a single lift point.
If it was good enough for the factory, why isn't it good enough for us? I had my car sitting on four points, with the front being those protrusions for about a year with no problems at all. I think the issue is if you stick a standard floor jack under there and use it as a single lift point.
Would you be OK using a 2-post lift with the support arms placed at that location? I wouldn't. I don't think the factory used the front location to lift a completed 944/951, just a bare unibody. Years ago, I tried using that position once on my S2 and the floor deformed slightly. I don't remember if I was supporting the body in just that location or if I had multiple jackstands placed. Here's an image I found on supporting a 944/951 searching threads on QuickJack:
Would you be OK using a 2-post lift with the support arms placed at that location? I wouldn't. I don't think the factory used the front location to lift a completed 944/951, just a bare unibody. Years ago, I tried using that position once on my S2 and the floor deformed slightly. I don't remember if I was supporting the body in just that location or if I had multiple jackstands placed. Here's an image I found on supporting a 944/951 searching threads on QuickJack:
I did and my car didn't suffer any deformation at all. I know others here have used this location on a four-point lift with success as well. When I went this route I didn't do it on a whim. I considered that most people that have done so haven't had any problems.
I did and my car didn't suffer any deformation at all. I know others here have used this location on a four-point lift with success as well. When I went this route I didn't do it on a whim. I considered that most people that have done so haven't had any problems.
Well, you might want to peek at your owner's manual. Here's page 92 from my 944 Turbo manual. As you can see, the only valid point in the front to support the vehicle on a lift or with a floor jack is the inboard frame rail.
Well, you might want to peek at your owner's manual. Here's page 92 from my 944 Turbo manual. As you can see, the only valid point in the front to support the vehicle on a lift or with a floor jack is the inboard frame rail.
I'm aware of that. Regardless, plenty of us have raised our cars at the 'unapproved' points and not had a problem.
heres proof you can the 5000TL high enough to remove engine from below.
And it's also proof the QuickJack manual was ignored as these are positioned incorrectly; the lock bar should be on the outside, not on inside. It's hard to tell from the images what pickup points were used, but it doesn't look like the QuickJack is far enough to the outside to use the rear location at the rocker... so, where are these supporting the body?
And it's also proof the QuickJack manual was ignored as these are positioned incorrectly; the lock bar should be on the outside, not on inside. It's hard to tell from the images what pickup points were used, but it doesn't look like the QuickJack is far enough to the outside to use the rear location at the rocker... so, where are these supporting the body?
I realized that after taking front and rear suspension off, but the lock at both positions worked as they should and were accessible. It used the front jack pad ( marked do not use in another image posted) and the rear jack stand point, near the rear of the door. Everyone's experience is different but I've never had an issue lifting the side of my car with a jack pad adapter and lifting from front jack points( marked do not use).
04-18-2022 | 11:03 AM
