UPDATE: caliper pin removal - now having trouble with front caliper retaining springs
04-21-2004, 07:57 PM
#16
In the Sink
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Chris,
Yes, I re-read your thread when I started having problems last night.
Actually, I was able to completely disassemble the rear calipers, with some difficulty in removing the pins.
Everything was done on my bench (aka kitchen countertop).
Yes, I re-read your thread when I started having problems last night.
Actually, I was able to completely disassemble the rear calipers, with some difficulty in removing the pins.
Everything was done on my bench (aka kitchen countertop).
04-21-2004, 08:01 PM
#17
In the Sink
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Originally posted by Scott at Team Harco
The springs are a pain in the ****! It was a few years ago when I did mine so the details are not fresh. I seem to recall a reasonably large diameter spring that maintained the housing to anchor orientation (not visible in picture).
I hate to say this - but you may have only two options if it is as difficult to remove as you say.
1) Heat. Careful application of the blue wrench (acetylene torch) should be enough to free up the siezure. Be very careful not to over heat the spring or it will lose its springyness.
2) Beat it out and buy replacement parts.
Keep trying the PB Blaster and persuasion method for a while. Hopefully, that will get it.
The springs are a pain in the ****! It was a few years ago when I did mine so the details are not fresh. I seem to recall a reasonably large diameter spring that maintained the housing to anchor orientation (not visible in picture).
I hate to say this - but you may have only two options if it is as difficult to remove as you say.
1) Heat. Careful application of the blue wrench (acetylene torch) should be enough to free up the siezure. Be very careful not to over heat the spring or it will lose its springyness.
2) Beat it out and buy replacement parts.
Keep trying the PB Blaster and persuasion method for a while. Hopefully, that will get it.
Thanks for the encouraging picture. I plan to paint my calipers / rotor hats / rotor vents/ dust shields black.
It looks like you re-assembled your new hardware relatively "dry", i.e., without too much caliper grease. Based on what happened to me, I am thinking of using a liberal amount of grease on the pins and springs. I was also thinking of spray-painting all my new hardware silver, to also prevent corrosion. Do you have any thoughts on this?
04-21-2004, 08:12 PM
#18
Three Wheelin'
Try not too use too much grease around your brakes, Will cause you problems. You certinally dont want any to drip on your rotors... Mabyee try LPS-3. For corrosion prevention, or just a dab of anit-sieze.
04-21-2004, 08:15 PM
#19
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The caliper grease I have is specialty stuff, and is extremely heavy, so I wouldn't expect it to run (even at high temperature). Good point though.
My father laughs at me about how much anti-seize I go through when re-assembling things.
My father laughs at me about how much anti-seize I go through when re-assembling things.
04-21-2004, 08:30 PM
#20
Three Wheelin'
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Sorry, I didn't mean to shout. 
Anyway, I use anti-sieze on all sliding surfaces, the pins and the back of the pads. It seems to last well and doesn't run. I actually bought some of that grease that was supposed formuated for this purpose - it dried out in six months. I had to use solvent to remove it.
That spring on the calipers is a real problem to remove even when its not rusted. I managed to pry it on and pry it back off.
I like metalmasters, too. Still have metalmasters on the back. I tried to cheap out with Mintex pads but absolutely hated the pads. Dust everywhere and too much squeal. And the mintex just didn't seem to work that well. I replaced the mintex with hawks on the front after a month. They put out lots of real sticky red-brown dust, but I really like the feel of the hawk pads. Good stopping power and nice modulation.
You'll really like the results when you finish, hang in there.
Anyway, I use anti-sieze on all sliding surfaces, the pins and the back of the pads. It seems to last well and doesn't run. I actually bought some of that grease that was supposed formuated for this purpose - it dried out in six months. I had to use solvent to remove it.
That spring on the calipers is a real problem to remove even when its not rusted. I managed to pry it on and pry it back off.
I like metalmasters, too. Still have metalmasters on the back. I tried to cheap out with Mintex pads but absolutely hated the pads. Dust everywhere and too much squeal. And the mintex just didn't seem to work that well. I replaced the mintex with hawks on the front after a month. They put out lots of real sticky red-brown dust, but I really like the feel of the hawk pads. Good stopping power and nice modulation.
You'll really like the results when you finish, hang in there.
04-21-2004, 08:37 PM
#21
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My assemblies had small metal plates between the pads and the piston/frame. I assume this is to prevent squeal. I intended to clean and re-use them. Does anyone else have these on their car?
04-21-2004, 08:38 PM
#22
Nerd Herder
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Kevin- I'm still tripping over my old rears in the closet- they still need to be rebuilt...
Post some pics of your heartache.. I didnt have the time when my rear calipers got swapped out in an hour and a half in the snow in Andy's drive.
Post some pics of your heartache.. I didnt have the time when my rear calipers got swapped out in an hour and a half in the snow in Andy's drive.
04-23-2004, 10:10 PM
#24
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I just got the calipers back from the machine shop.
It's amazing what $66 worth of sandblasting will do.
They also did the dust shields on all 4 wheels.
They were able to get the four stuck spring pieces and two stuck pins out. Cost was $75.
I would use them again if I need basic machine work / glass beading / sandblasting.
Back in business!
I hope to make my stuff look as good as Scott's!
It's amazing what $66 worth of sandblasting will do.
They also did the dust shields on all 4 wheels.
They were able to get the four stuck spring pieces and two stuck pins out. Cost was $75.
I would use them again if I need basic machine work / glass beading / sandblasting.
Back in business!
I hope to make my stuff look as good as Scott's!
04-23-2004, 10:20 PM
#26
In the Sink
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I assume they use some kind of sealing primer to prevent rust and to keep you from being disappointed if there is slight discoloration or imperfections after sandblasting.
Tonight my "hot date" is rebuilding these using the piston rebuild kits I purchased from Pelican.
That and painting them all with black caliper paint I got from Zims.
And painting the rotor hats of the new rotors I got.
Whew. Getting tired just thinking about it.
Tonight my "hot date" is rebuilding these using the piston rebuild kits I purchased from Pelican.
That and painting them all with black caliper paint I got from Zims.
And painting the rotor hats of the new rotors I got.
Whew. Getting tired just thinking about it.
04-24-2004, 12:08 AM
#29
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The car was in New York from 1990-1996, a lot of that time in upstate NY. My former mechanic looked down on my car as an "East Coast Car" with respect to there being any corrosion on the underside (which, in my opinion, is pretty minimal).
Here are the pins. They are not being reused.
Here are the pins. They are not being reused.
