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Grease for rebuilding brake calipers

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Old 04-16-2004, 11:57 AM
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Scott at Team Harco
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Stan,

I think your concern over the boiling point of the seal/piston grease is unfounded. First off, it should be used in very small quantities (only enough to coat the seal and piston with a thin film. Then, it is only there as an assembly aid. Once the caliper is put to use the grease will no doubt be absorbed by the hydraulic fluid. The effect of this dissolved grease should be negligible on the boiling point of the fluid. In all likelihood, the grease, even if it did have an effect, will have a higher boiling point than the brake fluid.

If you do decide to use the grease during assembly (as opposed to brake fluid) and are still apprehensive - you could always bleed the calipers after you have heat cycled the brakes a couple of times to remove most any trace of the grease.

Bets of luck!
Old 04-16-2004, 01:02 PM
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Stan944
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I didn't think such grease would mix with brake fluid, but it might as well do so. I though the grease would stay there to provide better seal and less friction, but that was just my guess. It would be interesting to find out how engineers in Permatex meant it to work.
If the grease indeed dissolves in brake fluid, I don't see much justification to use it, except for easier assembly.
Old 04-16-2004, 01:25 PM
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Originally posted by Stan944
I didn't think such grease would mix with brake fluid, but it might as well do so. I though the grease would stay there to provide better seal and less friction, but that was just my guess. It would be interesting to find out how engineers in Permatex meant it to work.
If the grease indeed dissolves in brake fluid, I don't see much justification to use it, except for easier assembly.
That's what it is for - assembly. There is no hope for it remaining in place for very long after the caliper is cycled a few times and the fluid agitates. Where you really need grease on calipers is on the guide pins. Most caliper issues can be attributed to insufficient or improperly lubed guide pins.

Ask for my article (see note about 6 or 8 replies earlier) - I think you'll find it useful. I was a former brake engineer at Continental/Teves ("ATE" on most Porsche calipers) so I do know a bit of what I speak.

Old 04-16-2004, 04:48 PM
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Peckster
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The PO of my car used some kind of grease that dried up and started seizing the pistons. Cost me a lot to get them rebuilt.
Old 04-17-2004, 12:09 AM
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83na944
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Luis,

Just re-read the thread and noticed your question. The Haynes manual has a great wirte up on rebuilding the calipers on early cars. It's all I needed to rebuild mine. Oh, and a set of seals, too.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Steve
Old 04-17-2004, 12:39 AM
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triscadek
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How much were the kits?

For removing the pistons, get a new tire valve stem, using the air pump at a convience store, put one end on the air hose fitting and the inside the wheel part over the brake line fitting on the caliper, let the compressor build up pressure and make sure that your fingers are not in the caliper.

I've done this several times.
Old 04-17-2004, 12:43 AM
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89magic98
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Hmm, based on this thread, I bought that Permatex stuff.

I can't find someone to do the sandblasting with a reasonable turn time. Can I just use a wire brush wheel on my drill, and use that to clean up the rust, then clean with brakleen, prime and paint?
Old 04-17-2004, 12:57 AM
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I would.



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