89magic98

I replaced my 83 degree thermostat with an 80 degree thermostat this weekend.

Here are some notes about how the whole thing went.

1. The part number for an 83 degree Wahler thermostat is 4256.83D60. The part number for an 80 degree Wahler thermostat is 4256.80D60.

2. I ordered the 80 degree thermostat from German Auto Parts:

http://germanparts.com/AllParts/AllPartNumbers_638.html

This does not come with the correct rubber o-ring. You can order the correct sealing-ring from Zims. I paid around $17 including shipping.

3. I used a tool ordered from Performance Products to remove the snap ring. Turns out it is a generic "GM Brake Cylinder Retaining Ring Remover".

4. I broke the tool while removing the ring. This is because this tool is designed to expand an outside snap ring, not compress an inside snap ring. The tool is not as strong when compressing a ring as it is when expanding it.

5. I got a second version of the same tool at Kragen, which held long enough to remove the snap ring.

6. When using this tool, use some white-out to mark the position of the screw where the pins would align with the snap ring. Use 45-degee angle snap ring tips. With one hand turning the ****, use your other hand to press the tool straight in against the thermostat to keep it from popping off the ring.

7. The holes on my snap ring were at the top of the opening. I installed the tool and did the first few turns from the bottom, so the tool would hold itself in place. I completed removal of the snap ring from the top.

8. When a large amount of coolant starts coming out, you know you've compressed the ring enough to remove the tool and ring in one piece. Be very careful when handling the ring. Mine popped off the tool just after I got it out of the thermostat housing of the waterpump. Put some plastic trash bags over the lower timing belt cover, and power steering pump to keep the coolant from getting everywhere.

9. For installation, I used the tool to get the ring into the housing (again, with holes on the snap ring facing up). Then from below, I used a long flathead screwdriver and a rubber mallet to tap the top of the snap ring into place.

10. There is a crush washer under the bleeder screw. Depending on how many times you have bled the system, have a new one on hand before starting. My washer is original, and it is very hard to get it to make a seal.

I would use this tool again, I think it is a lot easier to use than a normal snap ring pliers (because of the limited clearance, and that you have to compress the ring and pull it out at the same time). However, do to the limitations of this tool, you might need to use a new tool (or repair the clip on the tool) every time.

Pictures of the tools follow in the other posts.

89magic98

The old tool - see the metal clip which broke off almost immediately.

89magic98

Here's the new tool - similar in design (does not come with the correct tip). The clip on this one held long enough - but it is also failing.

Any ideas to improve the tool (perhaps a replacement clip)?

Cass944

i used a pair of weird pliers that had 2 little pin looking things ont he end kinda like those. I took the ring in and out of mt water pump about 8 times in under an hour because we kept messing up the seal. but yeah they worked pretty good. then i come on here to hear all these stories about people having huge problems getting that thing out.

you guys all need one of that i have. too bad i lost it and i cant even get a picture.

pete944

Thanks for the info, Kevin. Does the car run cooler now?

helzerr

I've used a set of "modified" right angle needle nose pliers like these:



By modified, I mean I've ground down the tips of the pliers to fit into the holes of the snap ring.

89magic98

944pete, I still need to finish adding coolant and bleeding the system. The crush washer under the bleeder screw is original, and needs to be replaced (need to order a new one today).

Your question reminded me to add item #10.

helzerr, thanks for posting a picture.

If anyone else uses a special tool, post a picture if possible!

Thanks!

Zero10

I will post a picture of mine later tonight.
From Princess Auto, cost me $6. It's a pair of right angle snap ring pliers, but they are thin enough at the bend to still allow the tips to reach the holes without the handles being against the housing.
I put the thermostat in and out about 15 times expirementing with the rubber rings, and never had even the smallest problem.
I tried modifying a pair of 'Team Mechanix' 90 degree snap ring pliers, and after removing the ring, both arms snapped right off, not just the tips!

If there is a princess auto near you, I'll post the part numbers and a picture of them. They're the perfect set for the job.

89magic98

In this catalog:

http://www.princessauto.com/download...2/tool-CAN.PDF

On page 37 in the pdf document, or 227 on the catalog page, is it item C or D (see below)?

pete944

On a somewhat related note, I bought one of these:
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/UV-550000.html
I won't have a chance to use it for a month but I'll have a full report when I do.

scottz

Thanks for the good info. However when I read your instructions my mind puts them in the voice of Curly and add a few "yoicks" to the end of every sentence. I also expect to see some pictures of you head in a vice or those plyers stuck into your nose.

83na944

Snap-on 45 degree .090 tip snap ring pliers, SRPC4590. Good quality, work well for this application, but no longer available. Cost about $25 two years ago. I bought two pairs of snap ring pliers with interchangeable tips, both of which were useless, before I got these. Maybe some other decent tool company makes a comparable tool.

IceShark

I don't know where some of these tool sellers are getting their tools made these days but the steel quality can be horrible. I went through about 4 Crapsman needle nose pliers in a day before giving up on them and demanding my money back. The tip ends right after the joint were just bending and fracturing like they were made out of butter. And this was just from one handed pressure not jumping up and down on them with all my might.

bloodraven

You too huh?

Danno

I used the same kind of angled needle-noise pliers as helzerr, but they were a little shorter on the tip and pointier. I didn't have to grind them down at all. I've found that it's easiest to grab just one end of the clip, then pull it towards the center of the thermostat and kinda roll your wrist to peel the circlip off the groove. Requires a lot less force than trying to compress the entire ring to remove it all at once (one section always seem to stay stuck in the grooove).