Bearing Replacement Question
#31
Race Car
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Costa Mesa, California
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The roller bearing is not chamfered. It's the spacers that are chamfered.
The picture is of a ball bearing not a roller bearing. The ball bearing goes on the inside (from the inside).
The inner race of the roller bearing will slide out -- come free of the outer race and roller bearing cage.
The only "problems" I've ever run into on early 944 rear bearings is getting the nut off and on and that darn snap ring on the inside.
The picture is of a ball bearing not a roller bearing. The ball bearing goes on the inside (from the inside).
The inner race of the roller bearing will slide out -- come free of the outer race and roller bearing cage.
The only "problems" I've ever run into on early 944 rear bearings is getting the nut off and on and that darn snap ring on the inside.
Last edited by SoCal Driver; 04-13-2004 at 12:39 PM.
#32
Race Car
Thread Starter
That's what I was thinking but this is what clark's garage said:
"Install the new inner bearing using a socket as a driver or a soft face hammer. Make sure that the bearing goes into the trailing arm evenly to prevent binding. Also, make sure that the chamfered edge of the bearing is facing out (from the center of the trailing arm)."
Was driving me crazy.
Haynes says: The chamfered edge of the bearing outer race should face out."
Haynes didn't mention the spacer till later.
Thanks for all your help. Hopefully can do the rest without help (or asking stupid questions)
"Install the new inner bearing using a socket as a driver or a soft face hammer. Make sure that the bearing goes into the trailing arm evenly to prevent binding. Also, make sure that the chamfered edge of the bearing is facing out (from the center of the trailing arm)."
Was driving me crazy.
Haynes says: The chamfered edge of the bearing outer race should face out."
Haynes didn't mention the spacer till later.
Thanks for all your help. Hopefully can do the rest without help (or asking stupid questions)
#33
Race Car
Thread Starter
ok. Here's the last stupid question I hope. When reattaching the cv joint do I need to put any grease in the cv joint flange of the stub axle or can I just attach it?
#35
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Knoxville, TN
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Actually, I've read that it is not a good idea to mix greases. I don't know what might happen,. I'm sure it's not going to explode or anything.
That's why you're supposed to clean the parts in solvent before you repack.
That's why you're supposed to clean the parts in solvent before you repack.
#37
Three Wheelin'
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I'm sure if you use the same grease its ok.
Like I said, I don't have the slightest idea why different grease would be a problem. All of it I've ever seen looks pretty stable.
Like I said, I don't have the slightest idea why different grease would be a problem. All of it I've ever seen looks pretty stable.
#38
Rennlist Member
OK, Dan, SoCal and 83na944, I'm building up my confidence to take on the front hubs tomorrow. Bought a big ratchet today to tackle those 19mm caliper bolts. Already had the torque wrench to put them back on at 63 ft/lbs. Your continued moral support and advice are much appreciated!
As for the lubricant, why not put CV joint grease on the bearings and be done with it? From your descriptions it appears to be the same as moly?
As for the lubricant, why not put CV joint grease on the bearings and be done with it? From your descriptions it appears to be the same as moly?
#39
Three Wheelin'
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SoCal seems to think its a good idea to add grease, he's probably right. I probably would , too.
Luis, you can do it. The threads been so long I've forgotten why you're taking off the calipers. Remind us.
Luis, you can do it. The threads been so long I've forgotten why you're taking off the calipers. Remind us.