Fuel gauge reads 3/4 when tank full
#16
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
These cars amaze me. There are 1950's Chevys out there with working gas gauges! What makes our car's parts fail so quickly? Not knowing how much gas you have in your car seems like a factory RECALL item to me!?
#17
i didn't have to mess with the sender at all. pulling the steering wheel won't be any fun for you, but you should be able to squeak the guages out behind it. there are only a few screws that hold the guage cluster into the dashboard. check the search function, i'm sure there's pictures of that on here somewhere. after you do that, take the connections off and clean them. chances are thats all you need to do, its all i needed to do, and it fixed my problem.
-Mike-
-Mike-
#18
its not a failure!! what dont you all understand?
our cars are substantially more complicated than a 1950's chebby. that said, it takes less to make something seem to malfunction or appear to break. just clean the wires and see if that doesnt fix it...
our cars are substantially more complicated than a 1950's chebby. that said, it takes less to make something seem to malfunction or appear to break. just clean the wires and see if that doesnt fix it...
#19
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Taking the guage cluster out wont set off the airbags or something, right? Do I have to disconnect the negative battery lead?
Unscrew cluster, remove (or push aside) to expose contacts, pull wires, clean, replace?
Unscrew cluster, remove (or push aside) to expose contacts, pull wires, clean, replace?
#20
no it doesnt set off the airbags.
you should disconnect the battery though, as with any operation like that
yeah just slide out the guages, take off the contacts, and clean em out. make sure they are clean and seated VERY WELL on the cluster, and that should take care of it. if its not that then go after the guage.
-Mike-
you should disconnect the battery though, as with any operation like that
yeah just slide out the guages, take off the contacts, and clean em out. make sure they are clean and seated VERY WELL on the cluster, and that should take care of it. if its not that then go after the guage.
-Mike-
#21
Three Wheelin'
Andy K - disconnect the battery and wait 20 MINTUES to let any residual charge drain from the airbag system - then remove the wheel. I've have had my wheel on and off a couple of times in the S2 recently and it's easy.
BUT - you'll need the "airbag light reset" precedure to get the "!" light and airbag light to extinguish afterwards. I've done this now several times too and it's easy.
I think the procedure is detailed on Clark's Garage.
RK
BUT - you'll need the "airbag light reset" precedure to get the "!" light and airbag light to extinguish afterwards. I've done this now several times too and it's easy.
I think the procedure is detailed on Clark's Garage.
RK
#23
Skip from Paragon did a tech article on the fuel level sender with some photos and resistence charts.
#25
Nerd Herder
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Originally posted by 89magic98
I found the low fuel warning lamp to be pretty accurate.
Also, I use the trip odometer as a secondary indicator of how far I've gone since the last fillup, which helps as well.
I found the low fuel warning lamp to be pretty accurate.
Also, I use the trip odometer as a secondary indicator of how far I've gone since the last fillup, which helps as well.
Clean the terminals and lugs on the sending unit (400 grit paper and dielectric grease) and the ground lug between the spare tire and back panel.
It will work again. I just did it last week and am wondering why it took me so long to fix this PITA.
#26
Rennlist Member
Originally posted by joseph mitro
the problem is not with the sender, it's with the calibration of the gauge itself. cleaning the sender won't help.
when i installed my white face gauges, i removed the needle from the fuel level gauge, and when reinstalling, i rotated the needle counterclockwise just enough so that the limit of travel of the needle is on the "empty" mark - it does not travel any lower. (you'll notice that currently, your needle will travel below the empty mark before the light comes on, and may stay there for a while, and when full, it will only read 3/4). my fix was to readjust the actual needle, so that now it truly reads empty. the problem is that now it takes over 100 miles for it to show that i've used any gas after a fillup. oh well.....
the problem is not with the sender, it's with the calibration of the gauge itself. cleaning the sender won't help.
when i installed my white face gauges, i removed the needle from the fuel level gauge, and when reinstalling, i rotated the needle counterclockwise just enough so that the limit of travel of the needle is on the "empty" mark - it does not travel any lower. (you'll notice that currently, your needle will travel below the empty mark before the light comes on, and may stay there for a while, and when full, it will only read 3/4). my fix was to readjust the actual needle, so that now it truly reads empty. the problem is that now it takes over 100 miles for it to show that i've used any gas after a fillup. oh well.....
#28
Rennlist Member
I'm not convinced the needle setting at the VDO factory or wherever isn't itself the real problem. For example, in 1990, my 4 year old 951 with 36k miles had the same situation. An overzealous mechanic replaced the sender. Guess what: the needle remained in the same place. Perhaps Porsche set them this way to be conservative...
Since then, I have owned over 20 944 series cars. Most of them have had fuel gauges that read low, regardless of mileage. Your car may represent a totally different situation. Or, as I always say, YMMV - no pun intended.
Al
Since then, I have owned over 20 944 series cars. Most of them have had fuel gauges that read low, regardless of mileage. Your car may represent a totally different situation. Or, as I always say, YMMV - no pun intended.
Al
#30
Advanced
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Newark/Aptos, CA
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
After reading this thread, I cleaned the contacts on the sending unit (after verifying correct resisitance) and cleaned the grounding bolt. Now, for the first time, it reads the correct level. ET=2-5 minutes.
--Chris
--Chris