Stiletto

Hello, everyone!

I got Iceshark's wiring kit in the mail several months ago but am finally getting around to installing it. Unfortunately, this looks like quite a bigger job than I expected. I've only done very basic maintanance stuff with my 944 (brake pads, fluids, etc.), so this installation will be the most difficult task I've attempted so far. The 4-page guide that came with the kit, while i'm sure it covers everything, is written above my skill level! I'm mostly concerned about removing and reinstalling the alternator.

Is there anyone who has finished this project that could offer some tips? I'd hate to think I wasted money on a kit I'm not skilled enough to install, but I'd rather know ahead of time if this really takes godlike skill!

Also, is there anything I might need (tools or parts) beyond the basic metric wrench/socket sets that is not listed in Iceshark's documentation? I'd hate to have the alternator and intake plumbing all apart and find I need to head to Autozone for some obscure tool!

Thanks

alpenweissisnice

There are searches on this; one thing you MUST remember to do is to disconnect the battery. Another tip from a recent poster dealt with the voltage regulator; apparenty its a bit tricky...I also understand IceShark to be VERY accomodating as it relates to offering install tips if you get stuck...Good luck, and let us know how it turns out!

triscadek

It's really not that big of a deal, sounds more intimidating than it is. Are you doing alternator brushes too? By not doing brushes at that time I left the alternator on the car.

I only did the headlight wiring kit, but it sounds like you got the cables too. I have pulled the intake off my S and all it took was basic tools.

While you're in there you might want to replace the vacuum lines that you can get to.

And if the intake comes off you do have gaskets already, right?

z3bra

Also while on the subject of intake gaskets, if you want to save yourself the hassle of replacing them next time, a nice even thin coat of anti-seize on both sides applied with a small flat paint brush to a new set with both mating surfaces cleaned beforehand will make them reuseable pretty much indefinitely.

Old trick from the Datsun L-Series engine modification book and probably someone else's idea before that. It's mostly intended for racing engines that get torn down frequently but considering pulling the intake is necessary for so much stuff on the 924/944 family of cars, it saves you some time and trouble. 8 bucks for a set of them isn't any big deal financially but if you can't immediately get a new set, being able to reuse them is a godsend. Be sure to reapply the anti-seize as needed after removal. I prefer the copper anti-seize over they moly type since it's better for high temp stuff, but the intake and head don't get hot enough that it really matters.

Stiletto

Hmm, as I have no idea about any of this (intake gaskets?) and I can't even _find_ the alternator. I'm convinced that this project is beyone me. This is pretty sad actually. I'll do some searches and reading, but most of the stuff I've found is pretty advanced. Thanks anyway...

MTM

Why would the intake manifold need to be removed to install new headlights?

triscadek

Ice Shark also has a battery cable kit and the factory grounding point is under the intake.

Stiletto, are you doing the headlight wiring kit only? What exactly are you putting on?

Also if you put your year and model of car in your signature line that might help since some repairs are particular to NA, turbo or S.

IceShark

Well you don't need to remove the intake manifold, but you do need to remove the intake air plumbing to get to the alternator and take out the alternator if a 951 to see what the heck you are doing to change out the voltage regulator and brushes. Which takes about 2 minutes once you can get at the alternator.

Stilletto, getting at the alternator is the hardest part, not from a skill level but just because it takes time if you have never done it before. Here is an idea if you think this is over your skill level. Set up an appointment with a local mechanic (doesn't have to be a P-Car specialist) and tell hin you want the alternator/AC belt replaced (5 buck parts item and you probably need it changed anyway). And while he is in there to change out the voltage regulator, connect the power cable to the back of the alternator and connect the supplemental ground to the front of the motor. Should take an hour maybe 2 at the most. Shouldn't be too bad in cost and you have a big worry off your mind. Then you can take your time to fish the harness to the lights and put in new lenses which should be a snap.

Scootin159

I JUST did mine (like last weekend), so I'd be glad to offer you any tips you need along the way. Also, do you have an N/A or a Turbo. If your's isn't a turbo, you won't need to pull the alternator (you COULD, but I don't see why you would have to). And where in FL are you? I'll be in Tampa monday->friday if you need any help.

Anyways, here's my basic synopsis on how I did it on mine (N/A):

1) Disconnect the battery (I think 13mm wrench). Ground (black) side first, then Positive (Red).

2) Put something (cardboard) between battery posts & cables & cables will try to re-connect themselves as you monkey around). I just tore off 2 3"x3" pieces of cardboard & coverd the battery posts with these.

3) Start removing the intake (exposing the alternator):
..3a) 2 13mm bolts on the back of the airbox near the brake resivoir. You'll be detaching the black metal frame from the painted part attached to the car (you should see what I mean).
..3b) 2 13mm bolts from the black frame to the front of the airbox.
..3c) 1 (big) hoseclamp between the AFM (thing next to the airbox that says "BOSCH" on it) and the main rubber intake boot
..3d) 1 electrical connector to the AFM (just pulls off)
..3e) The whole airbox should now lift right out (may need to monkey with the rubber gasket in the fenderwall to get that end out, but just pull hard enough & it'll come.

4) Remove the main vaccum line to the brake booster, it'll just make life easeir. Just follow the kinda woven line about 1" around from the brake booster down to where it connects & you should see a hose clamp there. Undo the hose clamp & pull it off the Y connector there.

The alternator should now be in full view

5) Remove the alternator heat shield (3 8mm bolts, two easy access on top, one hard access on the bottom). To get the hard bolt on the bottom (it's on the bottom near the fenderwall), it's much easier to reach in from underneeth & it should be right above the AC compressor. No need to remove belly pans.

6) Pull the heat shield back about 1" (enough to get clearnance for a wrench), and you should see the main wires attached to the alternator.

7) Double check that the battery is still disconnected

8) Use a 13mm wrench to disconnect the main power line and a 10 or 8mm wrench to disconnec the small blue wire.

9) Pull the heat shield out the rest of the way to get yourself room.

10) Now drill your hole for the new battery cable (should be explained in iceshark's guide)

11) Also time to replace the voltage regulator (2x phillips head screws). You'll find the voltage regulator on the bottom of the back of the alternator. When installing the new one it is very helpful to have a mirror there to see what you're doing, but just take note you need to push UP on it pretty hard (yet square as to not bend the brushes) to get it to install correctly.

12) Reconnect all the wires on the alternator, including the new positive feed.

13) Reinstall the alternator heat shield.

Time to install the rest of the wiring harness

14) Duct tape the relays in place to help guide your wiring runs, but don't screw them down yet as you may need to move them to clear the buckets.

15) Run the main run over to the right side headlight, this one will need to feed down through the hole in the bottom of the headlight bucket area, through the bumper to the other side, and then back up a similar hole on the other side. I'm leaving this part kinda general as you'll have to find a wiring run that works well for your car, just make sure it's clear of all belts & fans.

16) Attach all the grounds as needed on the left side to the common ground point (I think there's 2 from the right-side harness, 1 from the left-side harness, 1 from the relays, and then your new supplemental ground). The common ground point is a 13mm bolt almost directly under the headlights on the frame rail. You'll see a ton of brown wires running there already.

17) Attach all grounds to the common right side ground point (should be two new ones. It's in the same spot as the one on the other side, but much harder to reach due to the headlight motor. I found it easier to install if you remove the headlight lenses (you'll need to do this anyways later on).

18) Attach the other end of the supplemental ground to the balance shaft cover bolt. You'll see a collection of four of them on the engine, right above the alternator. Pick one of the four, the one easiest to reach, and pull it out & replace it with the ground wire attached. I think this was a 19mm bolt if I remember right, maybe 17mm.

19) Install the new lenses & attach all the wiring as noted in the kit (should be very straight forward

20) reinstall the intake

21) check clearances on the buckets moving up/down

22) mount the relays

23) strap-tie down all the wires

24) Reattach the battery (positive FIRST, then ground)

25) Start her up & test it out. You'll be in good shape if the volt meter on the dash reads ~14v (meaning the alternator is right), if it reads ~12v you put the voltage regulator in wrong. The operation fo the headlights is simple to check (do they light up?).

26) Go for a drive & enjoy.

As you can see nothing really any harder than turning a few bolts. I think if you have a 8mm, 10mm, 13mm & 19mm wrench & socket , as well as a 3" extension in a couple cases, you should be in good shape to do the whole install. Let us know if you have any more issues, as several of us have done the same thing before.

Stiletto

Thanks, I spent some more time under my car, and I've got a pretty good idea where things are now, and in what order things need to be done.

I have a turbo, which according to the guide and every search Ive done, means I'm going to actually have to remove the alternator to do any work with it.

Scootin159: How long did your install take? I'm gonna multiply it by 5 to get a good estimate of how long it will take me!

Man, I did my stereo/speakers/amp install myself:

http://www.existens.org/944/

...but doing anything in the engine compartment really spooks me out!

Matt O.

Stiletto, if you can do THAT stereo install, you can do the wiring for the headlights. Nice install!

Scootin159

I worked on mine for about 7 hrs, but I had to reinstall the voltage regulator (and all the intake & stuff involved in getting in there) twice because I suck. I DOUBT it will take you any more than 5hrs if you do it right the first time, and being that I know what I'm doing, I could probably do it in about 3 now (including cleanup).

Because you have a turbo, you do have to remove the alternator, but it's not THAT hard. You'll have to decide at what point in my guide above is the best spot to remove it (probably after the intake plumbing, but before the heat shield). Also my guide on removing the intake will be useless for you, but you can probably carry over some of the same ideas. Anyways, here's the extra steps in removing the alternator:

1) Loosen the alt. belt tensioner enough to take the pressure off
..1a) Remove the Belly pans (on mine it's about 6 10 or 13mm bolts)
..1b) Find the turnbuckle right in front of your face when looking underneeth from the front. Loosen the set screws, and then turn the turnbuckle to loosen it (you'll have to mess with it, but I know one side of it is reverse threaded). I think this uses a 19mm and 17mm wrench.
..1c) From above now, find the two bolts holding the alternator to the engine block, and remove.

The alternator should now be in your hands, and the heat sheild much easier to remove, as well as the wiring, as well as the voltage regulator.

When re-installing the alternator, you'll want to tighten the tensioner until the belt shows 5mm of deflection at it's longest point. Basically put a ruler between the crank pulley and the A/C pulley, push up on the belt as hard as you can, and go until you can only 'bend' the belt up 5mm (with a reasonable amount of force). If you hear any squeeling on startup (rainy mornings will let you know for sure) you have it too loose, but you don't want to overtighten it.

CPTdooberhead

I have had my complete Iceshark kit now for nearly 1.5 years, still in the box... hopefully I'll get around to installing it in the next week or two

Jim 944S

Stiletto....

You'll be fine with this! Not really difficult to do (though I knocked off a vaccume line way down in the black pit (car is black and the engine compartment sucks in light like a black hole!)).

Where in Florida are you?

Jim 1987 944S

Stiletto

I'm in fort lauderdale!