StoogeMoe

So whatever happened here? Tiger, did you ever get the balance shafts installed and working correctly?

Tiger03447

Dear StoogeMoe and others: Yes I did! AND TONIGHT, after a rather lengthy new starter install, I actually got the engine to start, run and idle! This engine has been totally gone through, but I bet that it hasn't been run in almost 20 years! I got the car with the engine non-running, 8+ years ago, and I know from the PO that he has had it in his field for at least another 10 years prior to that. I am VERY elated about this..a MAJOR milestone has been reached! Last week I was able to get the hood, L Front fender, bumper, nosepiece and headlight eyelids back from the body shop all nice and painted.(6 months)..It's starting to look and sound like a Porsche again! Now on to other significant details!! Although the alternator was tested at least 3 times at AZ on their test bench, and showed that it was working OK, I had a battery discharge light on, on the dash. It is an original part, so more investigation needs to go on there. Hopefully, we can clamp on a DC ammeter and see what's happening or not. Could be a bad cable or a host of other gremlins in the circuitry...or maybe the alternator decided not to play nicely. We'll find out more as time progresses. Thanks for your interest, StoogeMoe!!

elgy

CONGRATULATIONS Tiger! Having seen your car when it was spread out in pieces on the garage floor I appreciate the work that you have put into it and it is going to be like new, or better, once you have finished. Pictures?

T&T Racing

Hi Tiger03447
To test the alternator in the car, start the engine and have it rev to about 2500 rpm. Measure the voltage at the battery, should be 14 v. Now measure the voltage st the alternator, the terminal with large diameter wire, should be 14 v. If 14 v at alternator and less than 14 v at battery, then issue is with the cable. If less than 14v at alternator, then probably the issue is in the excitation wiring, small diameter wire at alternator. Could be failed resistor in circuit, etc. Measure the voltage.

T&T Racing

Followup to previous post. had my alternator tested and it tested OK. It tested OK in race car in shop. But on the track after the engine compartment was hot, the alternator voltage output was 13.6v vs. cold at 14.0v

StoogeMoe

Awesome to hear Tiger. I know you’ve been working on this for a long time.

I bet you can’t wait to drive it.

Tiger03447

Tested the alternator today with a clamp on DC voltage meter at various RPMs... output Zero..Then we tested it with a VOM meter with one lead on the large post, and the other to the chassis..still no output. Removed alternator and will replace with a new one. This one was an original one..so who knows? I can get a reman with a lifetime warranty for about 125 or so. This way not only do I get new diodes and brushes, I get new solder in the stator and rotor as well as new bearings. I'll keep you posted. Next test will be an ohmage test on the large diameter cable that goes from the alternator to the starter...It could be bad as well...Ran the engine a bit today, got the heater blower to work on multiple speeds, emergency flashers work, temp gauge and tach work, adjusted idle to about 900-950 RPM. Got the heat up on the gauge, but not enough to kick on the fans..that will be the next test. One step at a time. I will twiddle with the AC **** a bit and see if I can get them to come on that way. I just installed a new fan relay, so all should be good so far..Haven't checked either of the fuse panels so that will be another check. All looked OK earlier this week and there hasn't been any smoke or sputters from that area..will check some more...to be certain.

Thanks guys for all the kind words....