944 S4 Build: 5.3 Engine Swap With Pricing
#17
Had to notch the base to fit in the adapter. Sorry not a machinist lol.
Fits well.
Attached new ends to the slave cylinder after notching.
Everything so far looking good on fitment.
#18
Very nice, what has to be detached for the bellhousing to come off complete? I imagine, starter and slave cylinder, do you have to mess with clutch fork? I made the mistake of coming in and getting lunch then got tired and took a nap lol. Man I must be getting old.
#19
Sorry I missed this! Not sure if it is any use to you now, but yes starter, slave cylinder and support bracket for the line to the slave, exhaust, emissions test tube (maybe?), and the four bolts that connect the TT to the bell housing. No need to touch any of the clutch parts, which is what is nice about going this route.
#20
Oil pan gasket
Conversion Oil Pan, pickup and hardware.
Correct conversion clutch disc. This disc can hold the power of an LS3 engine.
Huge shout out to IFC Racing, Mike is amazing. We ran into some issues that were out of his control (not his fault), he worked hard to get things moving and he provides excellent products with top notch customer service.
Last edited by CyCloNe!; 03-09-2021 at 04:17 PM.
#21
Sounds like good progress. I'm curious, are you getting conversion parts from IFC? I have seen them on the website, but I am usually on there looking at wide body stuff, which they seem to be more well known for.
#22
I want to get IFC's fiberglass v8 conversion hood as I am not going to drop the crossmember unless it won't clear the IFC hood. Mike is a great guy, he responds pretty fast to emails and has been very helpful so far. I saw other members stating that their fiberglass products were better than most but may have a slightly longer wait time.
Last edited by CyCloNe!; 03-09-2021 at 05:17 PM.
#23
87944turbo- What do you end up doing for the computer? I know most use a factory remapped ecu.. I am considering the Microsquirt LS 24x setup, it's a bit more at $580 but wonder if it may be better option.
#26
Well tried to get the motor out but it said no lol. The driveshaft is still connected to the engine with it moved as forward as I can go. I tried to pull it up at an angle to give me a little more room to slide it out but still wasn't enough. So time to drop the cross member and disconnect the power steering. After the cross member is lowered and the steering shaft is out of the way I should have plenty of room to get it out the top.
Last edited by CyCloNe!; 03-11-2021 at 11:53 AM.
#28
Last edited by CyCloNe!; 03-11-2021 at 01:00 PM.
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Noahs944 (03-13-2021)
#29
Well this happened... The feeling of accomplishment lol. Took about 8hrs total since I had to go back and still undo the crossmember/rack/swaybar/control arms to get it off the torque tube shaft. Not bad though to be honest...
Now the really important question what are the lines on the firewall and what can I remove? I know the a/c lines are there.
Last edited by CyCloNe!; 03-13-2021 at 04:14 PM.
#30
Congrats Brother, looking good! Personally, I'd keep all the oem stuff on until yours very close to running, because it will help identify the wires easier. Whatever direction you choose, I'm excited for your adventure!