How many miles out of a tank 'til the light comes on?
03-16-2004, 06:13 PM
#17
Race Car
I get 400-440kilometers before the light comes on.
But, that's what up to 70% leakdown and 100psi will do to your mileage.
Although, I found a huge vacuum leak while it was all apart, perhaps the mileage will get better.
If I recall correctly, you can check the light by fiddling with the wires on the fuel level sending unit. I'll look it up tonight, see if I can come up with a procedure.
But, that's what up to 70% leakdown and 100psi will do to your mileage.
Although, I found a huge vacuum leak while it was all apart, perhaps the mileage will get better.
If I recall correctly, you can check the light by fiddling with the wires on the fuel level sending unit. I'll look it up tonight, see if I can come up with a procedure.
03-16-2004, 07:08 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
Originally posted by jeeper31
Wow. I am getting about 200 miles per tank. Figuring about 15 mpg. Thinking it should be more.
Wow. I am getting about 200 miles per tank. Figuring about 15 mpg. Thinking it should be more.
03-16-2004, 07:38 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
It would change it considerably, since when the oxygen sensor is inoperative the car basically dumps fuel into the engine without gauging the most efficient range.
The oxygen sensor provides the DME (fuel injection brain) with a reading to ensure the right amount of fuel is used without wasting as much.
The early cars use the Bosch 11027 single wire unheated oxygen sensor. I found one at the local import auto parts store for $25, and it's going in ASAP!
The oxygen sensor provides the DME (fuel injection brain) with a reading to ensure the right amount of fuel is used without wasting as much.
The early cars use the Bosch 11027 single wire unheated oxygen sensor. I found one at the local import auto parts store for $25, and it's going in ASAP!
03-16-2004, 07:51 PM
#22
Race Car
Originally posted by Luis de Prat
It would change it considerably, since when the oxygen sensor is inoperative the car basically dumps fuel into the engine without gauging the most efficient range.
The oxygen sensor provides the DME (fuel injection brain) with a reading to ensure the right amount of fuel is used without wasting as much.
The early cars use the Bosch 11027 single wire unheated oxygen sensor. I found one at the local import auto parts store for $25, and it's going in ASAP!
It would change it considerably, since when the oxygen sensor is inoperative the car basically dumps fuel into the engine without gauging the most efficient range.
The oxygen sensor provides the DME (fuel injection brain) with a reading to ensure the right amount of fuel is used without wasting as much.
The early cars use the Bosch 11027 single wire unheated oxygen sensor. I found one at the local import auto parts store for $25, and it's going in ASAP!
03-16-2004, 07:54 PM
#23
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Hmm I'm getting around 16-18 city and 22 max on highway. I'm going to replace the O2 sensor plus do the vac lines hopefully I can get the mileage up. What you guys think of replaced them with used ones? I have two used ones that I got from a rennlister for free is it worth my try or should I just buy new one?
03-16-2004, 08:04 PM
#24
Rennlist Member
I remember from another thread that you should refrain from installing used O2 sensors. Can't remember why, exactly.
The R/R is fairly straightforward but you'll need to run the car a minute or two before attempting the removal. It's advised to spray the base with some PB blaster or WD40 to loosen the threads beforehand.
I plan on soaking mine overnight. There's also supposed to be an "oxygen sensor wrench" at auto parts stores that makes removal a cinch. Otherwise, you'll need a proper sized combination wrench, or better yet, a large enough box wrench threading the old (disconnected) wire through it.
The R/R is fairly straightforward but you'll need to run the car a minute or two before attempting the removal. It's advised to spray the base with some PB blaster or WD40 to loosen the threads beforehand.
I plan on soaking mine overnight. There's also supposed to be an "oxygen sensor wrench" at auto parts stores that makes removal a cinch. Otherwise, you'll need a proper sized combination wrench, or better yet, a large enough box wrench threading the old (disconnected) wire through it.
03-16-2004, 11:12 PM
#25
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Originally posted by Scootin159
I've put about 650 miles on a tank (from full until I filled it). I never actually hit the light though, but I just got nervous and decided to fill it anyways. Now that I think of it, I've never seen the light come on before....anyway to check if it's working?
I've put about 650 miles on a tank (from full until I filled it). I never actually hit the light though, but I just got nervous and decided to fill it anyways. Now that I think of it, I've never seen the light come on before....anyway to check if it's working?
650miles on a tank is incredible
Damn Auckland traffic, running shoes would be a faster way to travel. From what I've read 340 miles on a tank is marginal, I'll have to keep an eye on it.
Thanks for the replies
03-16-2004, 11:20 PM
#26
Rennlist Member
I got about 280 miles per 17 gallons before I sold my car. At one point, I got 240 miles - about 220 miles of mountain driving, mostly above 4000 rpm and lots of load.
03-17-2004, 02:04 AM
#27
Race Car
I guess I should mention, that with my engine in such terrible condition, I still manage 980kms before the light comes on when I'm on the highway.
It gets great highway mileage, but all the acceleration in the city kills my mileage due to my low compression.
It gets great highway mileage, but all the acceleration in the city kills my mileage due to my low compression.
03-17-2004, 05:08 AM
#28
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Last tank I got 390 miles to the light. mmm clean air filter and new plugs. Also, the early cars have the single wire O2 sensor? Could have sworn mine had 3 last time I was under there...
--Chris
--Chris
03-18-2004, 06:09 PM
#30
Race Car