brake questions.
#16
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Rather than have the rotors machined, check their runout first. This is easy to do while they are on the car. You'll need a dial indicator and something to hold it in place.
My original rotors wore down to "replacement" level within 30K miles. I bought NAPA rotors, and they now have around 120K miles on them and show little wear. I've been using Metalmasters (now Axxis?) for pads, and have been pleased with them. Don't know if they were easier on the rotors than the OEM pads, though. They did last longer and produced less dust.
. . . Steve
My original rotors wore down to "replacement" level within 30K miles. I bought NAPA rotors, and they now have around 120K miles on them and show little wear. I've been using Metalmasters (now Axxis?) for pads, and have been pleased with them. Don't know if they were easier on the rotors than the OEM pads, though. They did last longer and produced less dust.
. . . Steve
#17
Drifting
Thread Starter
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the discs i dont think are generic.....a.t.e. the same company who stamped their name on my brake reservoir. there is some drag with the wheels off and the calipers on and spinning the rotors. so i would guess there is some runout. i followed the directions exactly. and i braked easy the entire next 2 days. after first riding around in parking lot to barely brake at all. maybe to help for diagnosis: my old driver rotor was thinner on one side. passenger side was evenly thin.
#18
Drifting
Thread Starter
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heres something: i noticed today that the brakes dont always shake the wheel. different speeds so its not a constant like balance or anything. does this hint more towards anything like bearings or tie rods or the ball joints?