Luis de Prat

I'm gathering advice on R/R the entire manual steering system on my 83. So far, I have a replacement steering rack, steering shaft, and new tie rod assemblies.

I've read the procedure in both Haynes and Clark's Garage and still wonder whether I'm going to be needing a puller/pickle-fork to remove the tie-rod ends from the steering knuckles or not?

If so, what kind do you recommend and preferably something I can pick up at Pep Boys or Western Auto.

Matthew West

Go the puller route. Something drop forged. I think I spent ~$60 for mine. If you use a hammer you will mushroom the bolt, and "Hand me the pickle fork" is just another way to say "Hand me the implement of destruction."

Luis de Prat

Thanks Matthew. I will see what I can find!

austin944

Here's one I used on my '84 power rack. Worked great.

RSflared72e

There is a very cheap (maybe $15) puller (really a pusher) that works really well available at most parts chains' stores. It consists of two black anodized metal arms that attach to the sides of a central rectangular silver-colored block via short bolts. A large finely threaded bolt with a tip cover goes through the middle of the metal block.

The black arms lock onto the bottom edges of the knuckle and the large bolt gets screwed down against the top of the tie rod end bolt. This thing will pop the tie rod ends right out of the bottom of the knuckle in short order, I love this tool. Saves the chipping of parts that can occur with a pickle fork.

Only initial PITA is sometimes getting the nut off the tie rod end bolt. Firm upward pressure against the bottom of the tie rod end will usually lock it into the knuckle well enough to get it to turn without turning the bolt itself. Make sure you carefully spray only the top of the nut and bolt with some PB Blaster the night before - but don't get it onto the bottom of the nut where the bolt passes through the knuckle, since you want this to stay somewhat siezed to prevent the bolt from turning (kind of tough...wrap the base of the nut with some duct tape).

This set of techniques will have your tie rod ends out in perfect shape (if you care) in a few minutes.

Regards Al

Luis de Prat

Anyone know what size cotter pin I'll nead for the castellated nuts?
Great responses. Thanks!

PorscheDoc

If you are careful when you use it, a pickle fork works just fine. Don't go reaming on the thing, and you won't damage anything. I have done it many times with a pickle fork and no bad results.

Luis de Prat

OK, well here's another instance of where cheaping out costs you the completion of a repair. Thinking that the tie rod end removal would be a cinch, I went and got the simplest gear pusher they had at the auto parts store.

Well, the tie rod ends are fused to the steering knuckle in such a way that this little gear pusher keeps popping off without even making it budge.

So, tomorrow I'm off to the store again to find a suitable pusher. Your recommendations are much appreciated.

Rich Sandor

Hmm. You are replacing the tie rod outer ends, right? Why use a puller?

Take off the cotterpin/nut and support the steering knuckle/spindle with a jack, and hammer down on top of the tie rod pin to pop it out. done.

Putting in the new one is even easier.

Yabo

yeah, what rich said, who cares if you mess up that one, if you are replacing it

Luis de Prat

Yeah, I thought the same thing and yet no amount of PB Blaster or hammering will get the SOBs out.

I'm definitely going to need a puller or pickle fork.

seb928s

Yea I had that problem I went to the local auto parts rice store (all are besides Napa) and bought a big fork looking tool and it was still hard to get out but it did the job. It was 9.99$ and it worked great and if it was only a little bigger it would have be perfect. I tried the hammer and everything but it didn't work.

Luis de Prat

Success! Only my pickle-fork cost twice as much as seb928's -$19.99 at Pep Boys.

It took some persistence, but threading the castellated nut loosely on the tie rod end, like the Haynes manual says, did the trick. The tie rods separated from the steering knuckles with a loud bang. This after soaking overnight in PB blaster.

Got the new ones in and the car aligned and now low and behold, the ball joints are loose. Fortunately they're easy to replace on the early cars with steel control arms.