Can anyone direct me to some printed material that shows how to properly set up a dry sump system, including definitions for 3,4,and 5 stage pumps, all parts needed, schematics, pump drive ratios, and sump design? I'm thinking of this, and have a general idea that it's not cheap, other than that, there really isn't much info readily available. I don't see much in the way of equipment offered on any of the P-car websites, or catalogs. I know that the 911 guys already have 'em, and most of the tuners bread and butter is those guys, but we are left to swing in the breeze? I've seen some pumps on ebay, but I wouldn't know which one to buy. Any help out there?

 

I am stupid on this matter, what is the advatage of a dry sump? I have read things on them but am not sure what it really means.

 

In a dry sump system, the oil sloshes around in a seperated dedicated tank, and not in the oil pan. Not really practical for a street car. Used primarily for race cars where lowering the engine in the car for lower center of gravity.

 

Check wit Chris White. He has been doing a lot o research into this one.
www.944enhancement.com

 

Well that's not the primary reason why guys do it...

No info in print?

 

Two reasons:

1) (the main one) It stops, or hopefully stops temporary oil starvation in parts of the engine (particularly the crank) under prolonged hard high-G cornering.

2) The engine can be placed lower in the chassis.


-MAS

 

The sloshing problem is the reason. You get too much sloshing you wind up with the crank picking up the oil causing drag on the crank and foaming which reduces proper oiling.

 

1. Cuts down on oil starvation when cornering under high Gs, whic could otherwise leave the oil pump ickup line high and dry (no oil to pump)

2. Stops Windage (the sloshing around the crank, which eats up horsepower)
3. Allows lower engine mounting, if the pan is modified to a dry sump pan (no longer has the storage area for your oil in the pan)

 

Yeah, what he said.

 

in regards to the original question, I have no idea myself how you would go about it. The only dry sumps I have ever seen or worked on are done with full kits designed for the engine and car. Talk to the racing catalogs and builders, you arent just going to find this in JC whitney (I hope)

 

Hey Sea;

You have a PM.

 

You should be able to find info on any of the Dry-sump pump makers Web sites (Barnes, Peterson, etc...).

You'll need a pump, a drive, brackets, an oil pan, a tank, and hose.

Usually you'll use two stages to pull oil out of the pan (scavange), and into the oil tank. Then you use another one or two stages to pump oil into the engine. You can also use a 5th stage to pump transmisison or diff fluid through a cooler and return back to the trasmission or diff.

Pumps ususally come as gear or gerotor types. Supposedly gerotors are supposed to be better, and less prone to self-destruct when the oil is contaminated wtih large particles. Anyway, both types are used in very extreme environmets and do well.

Drives are usually cogged belts and a couple of cogs. You'll have to have to adapt a cog to the front of the crankshaft, and anticipate the mounting depth, so it lines up precisely with the cog on the pump. You have to use a cogged belt, when using belts, because pullies will slip and potentially not run the pump at a high enough RPM. There are other types of drives, but the cogged belts are the most popular.

You'll have to fabricate extremely sturdy brackets, that have no flex. You can make some mock brackets out of sheetmetal and have a machinist make some more sturdy ones. Of course this the hard part because you have to find a place to mount the pump that gives you some clearance to allow the drive to route between the engine and the pump. Your brackets also have to allow your pump to swing on it's mount so you can tension the belt, like an alternator does.

You'll need an oil pan made. The pan will be designed to drain oil toward the scavange pickups, and you may want to have some baffles added as well. You could have your stock oil pan modified as well, but it may cost just as much.

Oil tanks you can buy from Moroso, et. al., but you need one that will fit within your engine compartment, or inside the fender. Mounting brackets should be extremely strong and must withstand the weight of the tank, full of oil, and the vibration. You don't want the tank coming loose and severing a line, which will kill your engine.

Good ol' stainless hose is the way to go for plumbing.

You will also want to add an external oil cooler at this point. It will add capacity to the system, and cool your oil of course.

The biggest problem is the cost of the project. Parts alone can run from $1300 (if you are lucky) to $2000. You really have to weigh the benefit against the cost for something like this. If you are only interested in street driving or casual racing I just woudn't waste my money. You'd be better off spending your money with trap-door baffles, and such. Just my opinion.

Regards and good luck,
Abdul