DSMblue

Congrats on getting the latch done. Agree with El Ricardo, getting the rear track is pretty straightforward, and makes the whole door handle/latch process much easier. Rear track is two 8mm bolts, one at the top, one at the bottom.

Madmax64

Door is working perfect now, window is back in place and the 'regulator' motor and armature are back in and the window works perfect. It was a bit of a pain getting the regulator back inside the door and on the tracks, but NOTHING like the pain is was to get the door to open! Once I broke out the dremel and ground out the two main lever pins everything came apart and I was able to get to the latch pin.

The power mirror is disconnected and if there was a connector I don't see one anywhere. The wires are just hanging loose inside the door and not connected to anything.

DSMblue

Connector for the power mirror is inside the base post of the mirror itself. Take out the allen bolt that holds the mirror to the door and it should be apparent.

931guru

The wires were cut by a PO because it is easier to cut the wires than it is to do it right (depin the connector, and repin during reassembly).

Without looking at the car, I would hazard a guess that the door (at least) has been repainted.

ElRicardo

I'll confess that I have tried to depin and repin this connector and all I got out of it was a mess of bad connections. So although I hate having to cut and splice, this is one place I did so. As such, I am a PO sinner.

Madmax64

I don't even see where these wires go though... I see the wires going to the mirror, but can't find anything in the door it used to be connected to.

odurandina

Holy CRAP......
Locked driver door just happened to me today after 12 1/2 years of ownership.

DSMblue

If you see wires coming through the outer door skin to the interior of the door, there should be matching wires somewhere inside the door. If that is the case, you should be able to strip the ends, resolder and heat shrink the individual wires, then retape the harness. Post some pictures of what you see now inside the door.

Chalt

Don't do what these guys did – too much time. Shaped charge.

Madmax64

First thing I'd do is to spray lube down in on the lock/latch and let that soak in. It's easy to bend things in there, then nothing will work. Then go for the shaped charge!

Cloud9...68

I'm in a similar situation with my 968, but I shouldn't have any bent components, because it worked perfectly until this past Saturday morning, when it suddently became impossible to open my drivers side door. Nothing happens when I pull on the outer latch, the inner latch, when I turn the key, or when I press the door lock switch on the console. Removing the door card with the dor closed appears to be impossible. The door is not locked, which I'm hoping simplifies my situation somewhat. Could someone who has ever had to "break into" their late 944 or 968 with no suspected damage to the mechanism from earlier attempts please walk me through the steps? Thanks.

gwshark

@Madmax64 not trying to bring back any demons around this issue, however I have just bought a 86-944 with same issue. The outside door handle doesn’t click , the inside door handle does do anything, the lock pin in door doesn’t go up or down. My drivers door is locked shut!! As with you I can remove the door card, just wondering if you wouldn’t mind sharing how you actually got the door card to even move given that there is a screw behind the dash. Wondering of you could PM me or email me at gwshark@me.com. Thanks in advance.

Aivar88

Probably mentioned before but you can remove rear quarter window in 5 minutes from outside and unlock the door and reinstall the window with pulling the seal with some wire.
Ofc this doesnt help if the doors lock itself is stuck inernally