Dwad

Hi, I am planning to do timing & some oil leak fix... Changing belts, pulley, most of the seals... I am confused if I should get a new pressure relief valve or not, mine is working fine yet... But I have to remove the oil cooler as well, so is it ok to change the gasket at leaky cooler side & not do change the valve ....
what special tool I should use to align the cooler properly & to do timing of engine...
Thanks everyone

bonus12

You can keep your OPRV and reuse it.

Cars which have relief valve 944 107 035 02 use special tool 9262/1. Cars which use relief valve 944 107 035 11 use special alignment tool 9215. You can find these types of tools on the pelican parts or paragon products websites in new condition.

You need the alignment tool 100%.

A bit of a challenging job but a necessary and rewarding one. Good luck

Tom M'Guinn

The actual oil cooler is remote-mounted on the 951, so you don't need to mess with the oil pressure valve to deal with it. On the other hand, if you are talking about the console where the oil filter mounts (where the cooler is in the non-turbo cars), then you do need to remove the oil pressure valve to get that off. If you have an original 3-piece valve with separate spring, etc., then the alignment tool is crucial. If you have a one-piece valve, you're still supposed to use an alignment tool, but can (typically) get away with not having one since the valve itself helps you get everything lined up.

Tom M'Guinn

Sorry, didn't see this. I wasn't disagreeing with your advice to get the tool regardless of valve type. That's what Porsche says too. I was just saying you stand a fighting chance without it if you have a one-piece valve.

GPA951s

Agree with Tom, Ive built 5 engines and probably re-sealed 10.. I dont even own the tool for the alignment. Never an issue (but all the ones i did were turbos) . I do have the offset tool for the nut of the sprockets, never had an issue with timing belts doing them by feel and then "watching" them when they are running, then put to top cover on. Most toolsl that I have I made... Like a stud height Gauge, and when I am sliding the touqe tube in the bellhousings I get them in a far as I can, enough to get the clutch disk on the snout of the shaft.. then I have a tool to depress the clutch fork, and the TT slides in the rest of the way.. (Beats calling my wife in the shop to to put her in the car on the lift) LOL The last two engines I did this spring I didnt even need THAT tool the TT slid right in like Butta!
I do have a friend of mine who is fanatic about the special tools.. The probelm is that even with the "special belt tension" tool it is "close" at best.. He cannot get it to repeat... The shop manual is your best friend, and I finally got to the point where I just make notes in it so I dont have to do the Nm to Ftlbs conversion, and then I got sick of going back and forth so I made a seperate page alltogether that Starts with the Crank Girdle Tourqe and ends up with the mainifold Tourqe and everything in-between is sequential... helps with all the page flipping..