Strange oil pressure issue after rebuild
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Strange oil pressure issue after rebuild
Quick background:86 turbo engine into cabriolet. Engine has been fully disassembled and put back together and into cab.
As I prepare to start the car for the first time I wanted to get some oil pressure before starting. Also wanted to run fuel pump to make sure lines are clean.
Gas line looks clean.
The problem I am having is with oil pressure. Yesterday I cranked it for a total of 30 seconds and never showed any oil pressure. Today the first crank or two had no oil pressure. Subsequent cranks, however, would peg the oil pressure needle after a couple of revolutions.
It stays pegged, after I stop cranking, for 10 or 15 seconds. It then goes back to 0. The needle does not gradually go to zero, it is a sharp drop - acting like I turned the key off. The other strange thing is that the warning light is on, although I think it dimmed once.
The oprv is the updated one piece design. I used the actual oprv as the alignment tool. I did buy the plastic alignment tool but it did not work (it is 1mm thinner then the actual oprv and being off 1mm I could not even begin to screw the oprv in)
Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
As I prepare to start the car for the first time I wanted to get some oil pressure before starting. Also wanted to run fuel pump to make sure lines are clean.
Gas line looks clean.
The problem I am having is with oil pressure. Yesterday I cranked it for a total of 30 seconds and never showed any oil pressure. Today the first crank or two had no oil pressure. Subsequent cranks, however, would peg the oil pressure needle after a couple of revolutions.
It stays pegged, after I stop cranking, for 10 or 15 seconds. It then goes back to 0. The needle does not gradually go to zero, it is a sharp drop - acting like I turned the key off. The other strange thing is that the warning light is on, although I think it dimmed once.
The oprv is the updated one piece design. I used the actual oprv as the alignment tool. I did buy the plastic alignment tool but it did not work (it is 1mm thinner then the actual oprv and being off 1mm I could not even begin to screw the oprv in)
Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
#2
Rennlist Member
No thoughts on the fix but I think you need to put a NSFW tag if you're going to put up those kinds of pictures of your engine.
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
No thoughts on the fix but I think you need to put a NSFW tag if you're going to put up those kinds of pictures of your engine.
As far as the "pegged" oil pressure.... Take the two wires off the Oil pressure sending unit and switch them... it appears they are reversed.
Might even try and start it up!
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
GPA951s had it right!
Zerconocene, what he was looking at was idiot light on while pressure pegged. This along with knowledge the engine had just been assembled. The sensor has two wires, one for pressure and one for idiot light (ground is engine). Normally Porsche puts a different connector on to avoid this problem. When idiots (me) disassemble one of these for the first time we just unscrew both connectors. As you can see from the photo below the spade connector should have remained on the sensor.
Since I unbolted the connector I just guessed at where they went. Should have taken time to research but since both connectors looked the same (since I unbolted the whole thing) I did not think it mattered.
I was confused by the readings (here comes the excuses!) Because it initially worked how I thought it should - no pressure plus idiot light. When it started building pressure and the gauge pegged I thought I had done the opvr wrong and it was sticking. The idiot light, and the fact that once pressure dropped the needle would flick off, should have clued me in.
Zerconocene, what he was looking at was idiot light on while pressure pegged. This along with knowledge the engine had just been assembled. The sensor has two wires, one for pressure and one for idiot light (ground is engine). Normally Porsche puts a different connector on to avoid this problem. When idiots (me) disassemble one of these for the first time we just unscrew both connectors. As you can see from the photo below the spade connector should have remained on the sensor.
Since I unbolted the connector I just guessed at where they went. Should have taken time to research but since both connectors looked the same (since I unbolted the whole thing) I did not think it mattered.
I was confused by the readings (here comes the excuses!) Because it initially worked how I thought it should - no pressure plus idiot light. When it started building pressure and the gauge pegged I thought I had done the opvr wrong and it was sticking. The idiot light, and the fact that once pressure dropped the needle would flick off, should have clued me in.
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Zirconocene (03-24-2020)
#7
Rennlist Member
That's a great explanation, thank you! Re-reading GPA's response, it was not in reference to anything visible in the picture, but rather an assessment based on the behavior. All is clear now.
I'm glad you got it figured out.
Cheers
I'm glad you got it figured out.
Cheers
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#8
Three Wheelin'
Great! Some Good News! Sorry didn't reply sooner, fortunately for me I'm still working in this weird climate of "Kung Flu" … I didn't see it in the picture, but the exact same thing has happened to me... Esp if the car is apart for any significant time..Good news is that it really doesn't hurt anything. One time I fired up a new engine and the Temp sensor had gone bad for some reason between pulling out the old engine and putting in the new one... Started the car, 30 seconds later my temp gauge was pegged and the red light came on... I'm thinking "how is that? the header isn't even that hot... ?" Stole another sensor out of another car.... and fixed.. I can say no matter how much I work on these cars I'm always learning and discovering, that is what makes it interesting and this enthusiast community is here to help each other out...
Anyhow, Great Job!
Anyhow, Great Job!