seb928s

Danno probably there is just I don't know it. I used to use an acid for gold then made it dissolve in water then heated and got gold powered.

Tom M'Guinn

Salt water and patience?

John Welch.

Some machine shops have an EDM machine that can melt the stud out, but I don't think they're too portable, so you might have to have the engine out for that.

Do a search here and on the 928 list, as this has come up before...

Good luck,

cruise98

I had a race engine machinist tell me a trick, that I have never tried, for easy removal of loctited studs. I sounds crazy, but here it goes.

Heat the stud to very hot, but not glowing. Use candle wax or parafin, (Gulf Wax in the baking section of the grocery) and place it on the stud. The heat in the stud draws the wax in and the stud will be able to screw out with just your fingers. Yea right?! Think of soldering copper pipe as an example of what he is saying. The heat draws the solder into the joint.

He told me this AFTER I had ruined my stud remover and burned a bottle of propane getting my non-broken studs out. Of course, I was whining and asking advice after the deed was done!

You have two problems. The stud is broken, and the previous advice given is good. The second problem is that unless you break the bond on the loctite, all of the easy outs/extractors available will probably fail to remove it. Porsche uses industrial strength loctite by the gallon on these studs. I have never figured out why.

Worst case is remove the block and have the EDM do it do it.

Good luck!

TestDriver

Hello,

I'm having some difficulty with my 88 N/A as well.

I just replaced the head gasket and upon tightening the nuts on the studs according to the procedure in Clark's Garage, one of the exposed studs (the one close to the water outlet) gave me an uneasy feeling. The procedure says to torque all the nuts to a particular setting. Once there, each nut is turned 90 degrees twice. The stud in question seemed to be going ok untill the last 10 degrees or so of the last torquing. It kind of felt like the effort got less as I was about to finish.

I went on to finish bolting everyting together hoping for the best but now it looks like I'm pressurizing the cooling system. My bad for not trusting my feel of the stud.

Anyway, I put a tiny bity more torque on the nut in question and it sure feels like diminished torque as I twist. The stud is not turning and there is a little more thread showing. Can someone let me know if what I'm seeing is the result of necking going on somewhere in the middle of the stud right before it breaks? I've done stress testing and would expect the torque to rise somewhat before it breaks if this is the case.

If I'm screwed here, what are my recourses short of removing the head? Is it possible to remove the stud with the head attached and the original amount of threads showing?

Any advice is greatly appreciated/

Ramon

lilredpo

Welcome to the 'toast' club.

Sorry to give you my worst case senario and I'm still not done. I have removed everything except the block and still not able to replace the stud.

Hopefully in the next week I'll have the block out (through the bottom) and over to a machine shop. I have already started looking into short blocks and / or total engine transplants.

These head stud are actually mounted in the block in a 'hole' approx 5/8" in diameter and approx 2" below the block/head surface. Mine snapped about a 1/2" below the deck surface.

These bad boys are also loctited in. Search the boards, there is a lot of info on head bolts across the water boards (924/944/951/928).

At this point, I have very little confidence in a shop replacing the stud.


Good luck and let me know how it goes.

Ray

Shutemup

Machine shop should be able to get it out.

Just don't break an easyout off in the stud, they can get rather upset with you when you do that.

Danno

How about an industrial-strength CO2 laser...?

lilredpo

Not sure if I have any pictures, but the configuration is strange.

The head stud is set in a hole about 2" below the block surface with about 1/16" clearance to the wall from the stud. Mine snapped about half way down.

Very hard to get in there, would be very easy if stud was flush to the deck.

Hopefully next week I'll know if it's totally toast or not.

Thanks for everyone's advice.

Ray

Mike S

There is a solution you can use to dissolve steel and not the aluminum. It's called "Tap-out". I have some sitting on my shelf here at home. It was really hard to find, but it does work. I used it on my aluminum motorcycle case that had a similar problem. It won't dissolve the stud completely, but it might dissolve enough to get it loose. It was purchased from "Advanced Tool Supply" in santa clara, CA.

lilredpo

Found the Adv Tool & Supply website, didn't see that product. But I will call in the morning.

thanks for the tip, I'll try anything at this point.

Thanks again,
Ray

lilredpo

Found the Adv Tool & Supply website, didn't see that product. But I will call in the morning.

thanks for the tip, I'll try anything at this point.

Thanks again,
Ray

TestDriver

I pressure tested the suspect cylinder last night (at TDC with 110 psi) and could not get any bubbles into the cooling system. Previuosly, I had smelled the reservoir and the combustion smell lead me to beleive I had a leak but now I'm guessing it was left over funk from the blown head gasket. I then ran the motor for about 15 minutes looking for bubles and nothing appeared. Is it possible I'm off the hook here? If I'm wrong again and it does leak, is it possible for it to be intermitent?

I don't know what's worse, the certainty of having to tear into it again or the hanging-on to a hope of everything being ok.

I'm really curious as to how that "Tap-out" product works as well. Keep us up to date.

By the way, my alternator is quite noisy. Does anyone here know the part numbers for the alternator bearings?

Ramon

TestDriver

Update,

I've put about 1600 miles on my car since my last post and everything looks fine. No leaks gas or coolant, and no overheating problems at all.

BTW, I did replace the bearings and brushes on my alternator. It must have been previously rebuilt since it had a really cheap front shielded not sealed bearing that was the source of the noise. The bearing numbers are 6303 and 6201. These were not readily available at the major local autoparts stores but the local starter/alternator rebuilder had them on hand. Together with the brushes, it came out to $10.20 including TX tax.

Cheers.

Scuba Steve

I have a '70 F-100 and on the Ford trucks board I frequent this problem pops up, mostly because of broken off, rusty exhaust manifold bolts. People there absolutely swear by the candle trick. I can't vouch for it personally since I haven't had to dive into that truck's engine yet but I'd give it a shot. On that board I've seen plenty of skeptics convinced after it takes care of their problems.