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You might want to borescope the interior of the cylinder bores prior to removing the head. Another poster on "what did you do to your car today" borescoped his and saw coolant running down the cylinder walls. If you do this, and don't see any problems, you will save yourself a ton of work,parts and effort by just doing the water/oil heat exchanger instead. just a thought..As the old guy says,"If it ain't broke, don't fix it"
Last edited by Tiger03447; 12-08-2019 at 05:46 PM.
Reason: mispelled word
Got the oil cooler seal on last night, just finished buttoning her up. The old seal was in quite bad shape. Compression test revealed normal psi, about 150+ for cylinder 1, 160 ish got the others. Definitely going to get a borescope to make sure, but it looks like the oil cooler might've been to culprit.
Started her up after changing the oil and coolant, got a milkshake again. Based on research I'm thinking the headgasket is cracked between the oil and coolant passages. Looks like I'm going to have to get a new one after all.
That said, anyone have pointers on doing this? I've got all the Clarks garage and pelican parts walkthoughs open on my computer. Want to make sure I get everything while the top end is apart.
After you change the oil cooler seals, you have to flush the cooling system. I've heard the dealers used to fill the cooling system with water and Tide laundry detergent and let it run for 20 minutes or so, then flush with water. When we had this problem on my son's early 85 (basically an 84) I had to flush it with water several times to get the oil out (no laundry soap).
12-08-2019, 05:44 PM
