Skip

"The pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; the optimist, the opportunity in every difficulty."

Sorry, but I've had little trouble in life learning how to do anything I set my mind to. I don't doubt that this skill and art of bodyworking is difficult. And, I do certainly lack the experience to foresee the result. The origin of my contempt towards allowing another the opportunity to *over*charge for my adversity is deep.

Around these parts, if it ain't got a Bowtie, Blue Oval or Ram on it, it ain't ****. I tried to talk 4 of the local hot rod shops into doing it - they all declined - one argued with me that the car was actually a Mazda and that I was trying to show off by posing as a "poorsh" owner. I asked if I admitted that it was a Mazda would he then do the work... The Roundy-round shop said they don't touch cars... imagine my embarrassment when I assumed Dirt Stockers were actually once cars. I could have it done for $1500 at a proper body shop that'd like to paint half the car afterward - or, I could go onto the 3-month waiting list to get into the oh-so-few race fabrication shops around the Big City.

If I fail there's always duct tape Having spent years in the paddock with the SCCA FV crowd, I know for fact that duct tape is an approved method of body repair and most any other repair except for suspension parts... that requires Dubble-Bubble and Bailing Wire at a minimum.

Veni Vidi Vici!

Skip

Just took some pictures to try and clear up any confusion. And, after talking it over with myself and Joe (my other self), we feel it might be worthwhile to try and chop down the manual factory sunroof to try and fit it to the aftermarket sunroof frame. If it fails, cracks or otherwise looks really hideous then I am only out a few bucks for the hacked up sunroof.

ASC sunroof, aftermarket, installed in 1989. Tilts up and slides back (over the roof, external):



The factory manual sunroof with trim removed (12.5lbs):



Laid over the roof to show difference in size:

roy_josef

That's a good looking roof Skip!

Skip

LOL - yeah, except that it shows how badly my paint is faded in comparison to the donors I still may make it work - at least for a while. Thanks again!

Tim Comeau

Hey guys,
Thanks for the mention of my product for the sunroof. I just heard about this post from a PCA buddy in Phoenix. Anyway, I just became a member so that I could advertise more effectively within RENNLIST. My product is a 944 Racing sunroof bracket set. (944-spec legal) It's a 4 piece aluminum bracket set that uses the stock mounting points and is completely within the cockpit of the car. Nothing on the roof (exterior) shows. Nice and streamlined. Saves 15 lbs on the early cars when you remove the entire sunroof system including the motor. The set is offered at $95.00 and includes all hardware and simple instructions.
I'll put a better ad up on RENNLIST asap, now that I'm a member, but til then you can email me at
timcomeau@***.net
Thanks!
Tim
p.s. Hey Skip at PARAGON PRODUCTS! I'm still waiting for those stickers to put on our 944-spec cars.

Roy LaZelle

Skip:
I know Seattle is a bit south of your island but Eurotech in Kirkland welded in a replacement battery box in my S2 a couple of years ago. They arn't cheep but I am happy with the job they did for me. The phone for them is 425-823-4282. In recgonition of all the good advice you furnish, I would be happy to give you a ride home --Roy--

Skip

Tim? Tim who? Uh, yeah - stickers... dangit. Working on it - really.

Roy, thanks. I like the Eurotech guys, too. I think I'm going to give it a try by myself for now - may even just chop up the manual roof and insert it into the hole somehow. Should be safe - may not look to purty. Did you make the first AX? I'm down for a waterpump - should be back up again soon.

mochman

what kind of flange is under the roof panel, the removeable part?

Skip

If you mean the aftermarket sunroof, there is a 3/8" drop down to the next level. Plenty of room to shim the factory roof in once "sized" properly.

mochman

probly gonna need some bracing to maintain shape 1/8 thick by 1/2 wide sould do it bowed to match roof line. 2 pcs spaced equally front to back. 20 gauge sheet metal should do. Trial fit everything correct height is critical the roof panel should be trimmed to about a 1/32 gap all the way around. flush fit is critical. once you have established shim height don,t forget the baracing weld it in, Don't warp it. Fit the roof panel up here's where the gap comes into play you want to tack weld the perimeter of the roof in very careful not to warp. When done grind the welds flat skim coat with filler prime and paint. When done the seam should not crack even though it's a track car. I've done this a few times before even on t-top cars and it worked fine.

Matt Romanowski

Skip,

Seem welding the hole thing is just about out of question. After working in a body shop, I would suggest:

1. Take it to someone. It'll save a lot of frustration and time.
2. If your like me, ignore #1. Buy a roof panel off a wreck and use that. You can then cut it to match your current hole and butt weld it. That is the best way. Plus, it'll have the correct curviture. Be carefull on the welding to avoid warping. You will end up using some filler (not a bad thing).

Matt

Skip

Thanks for all the suggestions and feedback, folks. I'll be at it this weekend. Maybe I'll end up with a cabriolet

RMills944

best way to cut the material with a smooth line is to find someone with a plasma cutter

88BlueTSiQuest

Is Dura-blend totally out of the question here? You could remove the glass sunroof, flange the opening(if you are gonna buy a nibbler, might as well get one that also flanges, Eastwood Air nibbler/flanger), and cut the factory panel to fit the flanged opening. Use Dura-blend to bond the factory sunroof to the flanged opening, smooth it and paint it. No warpage, and it's supposed to be pretty strong.

Hans

Skip: I knew it was there somewhere....
http://mall.rennlist.com/archives/94...-944_26556.htm
May be of help if not too late already
TakeCare