Oh NO, what's that sound??
10-05-2019 | 09:07 AM
#16
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From: Decatur, Al
Does it make a noise when turning crank by hane? Does it bind in any place when turning by hand and the spark plugs removed? When was the last time the engine was run? Was it run till it reached operating temperature?
10-05-2019 | 12:27 PM
#17
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From: Rocky mtn High
No noise when turning by hand.
Was last run last week (first time in a few years) got up to operating temp, stopped and restarted a couple times with no issue.
When turning by hand with the plugs out I "think" i mighty feel a spot where it feels harder to turn. (However it felt about the same as before i started the car for the first time, as I made 4 full rotations to make sure all was good)
Was last run last week (first time in a few years) got up to operating temp, stopped and restarted a couple times with no issue.
When turning by hand with the plugs out I "think" i mighty feel a spot where it feels harder to turn. (However it felt about the same as before i started the car for the first time, as I made 4 full rotations to make sure all was good)
10-05-2019 | 06:19 PM
#19
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From: Rocky mtn High
10-05-2019 | 08:56 PM
#20
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From: Rocky mtn High
I pulled the cam tower (great now I need ANOTHER new gasket) and everything looks ok, nothing in the cam tower, the followers move freely and the buttons are all firm.
cam spins freely and looks good.
valves/springs look fine are all aligned and at the same height.
im tired. and I don't know what else to do???
the only thing I can say is I smacked a follower into the cam, and it made a similar sound.
I think god likes torturing me.
(PS that HondaBond is some strong Sh*t, after I pulled all the bolts the Cam tower didn't want to come off!)
10-05-2019 | 11:51 PM
#21
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From: Midwest
I must have missed that, did you turn it over using the ignition / starter with the relay removed? Hear any noise?
If not, it's probably safe to start the motor but do us a favor and have audio / video recording while you do so we can help identify the noise if it reappears.
If not, it's probably safe to start the motor but do us a favor and have audio / video recording while you do so we can help identify the noise if it reappears.
10-06-2019 | 03:09 AM
#22
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From: Rocky mtn High
I must have missed that, did you turn it over using the ignition / starter with the relay removed? Hear any noise?
If not, it's probably safe to start the motor but do us a favor and have audio / video recording while you do so we can help identify the noise if it reappears.
If not, it's probably safe to start the motor but do us a favor and have audio / video recording while you do so we can help identify the noise if it reappears.
heres a couple theories
1. for some reason the valves were returning slowly initially and then would "pop" back up thus smacking the cam.
2. related to the lifters not being pumped up, could there be a "gap" between the lifters and the cam, and when the lobe comes around, it "smacks" the lifter?
10-06-2019 | 08:36 AM
#23
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From: New York & Indiana
yes I had a buddy crank with the DME removed, and heard the noise.
heres a couple theories
1. for some reason the valves were returning slowly initially and then would "pop" back up thus smacking the cam.
2. related to the lifters not being pumped up, could there be a "gap" between the lifters and the cam, and when the lobe comes around, it "smacks" the lifter?
heres a couple theories
1. for some reason the valves were returning slowly initially and then would "pop" back up thus smacking the cam.
2. related to the lifters not being pumped up, could there be a "gap" between the lifters and the cam, and when the lobe comes around, it "smacks" the lifter?
Statement 2. I do not believe the lobe of the camshaft in contact with the lifter would make that noise because the lobe "sweeps" over the lifter surface
10-06-2019 | 07:54 PM
#24
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From: Rocky mtn High
Ok, well get this!
This seems the most plausible. as suggested by a member on pelican forums.
The car has been sitting with old gas, which left varnish, this varnish was sprayed onto the INTAKE valve stems (thus ruling out the exhaust valves) and there by slowing the return of the valve. so it would leave a gap for a moment while the lobe rotated away, then when the spring closed that gap it made the smacking sound I heard.
(the fuel pump that was originally on the car was locked up, due to varnish, as I pulled it apart and there was a thick layer of brown goo at the bottom) I noticed a thin layer of goo at the bottom of the intake port. so this helps confirm this scenario.
This seems the most plausible. as suggested by a member on pelican forums.
The car has been sitting with old gas, which left varnish, this varnish was sprayed onto the INTAKE valve stems (thus ruling out the exhaust valves) and there by slowing the return of the valve. so it would leave a gap for a moment while the lobe rotated away, then when the spring closed that gap it made the smacking sound I heard.
(the fuel pump that was originally on the car was locked up, due to varnish, as I pulled it apart and there was a thick layer of brown goo at the bottom) I noticed a thin layer of goo at the bottom of the intake port. so this helps confirm this scenario.
10-07-2019 | 05:32 AM
#25
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From: Rocky mtn High
Ok I think I can 90% confirm this is the case. I felt the valve stems and they were extremely sticky! SO what im assuming happened is that when the engine was running they were getting coated with a thin layer of varnish. When the engine was warm the gas would evaporate and leave the varnish was left behind, but while it was wet, it was ok, once it cooled it became very sticky and slowed the movement of the valves.
I drained the tank, and didn't get much more than I put in before I started it, so that means there wasn't much gas in there to begin with.(so I hope minimal varnish) I pulled the strainer (which by the way, was torn and very brittle the strainer material broke just by touching it!) There was a little varnish around the bottom of the strainer threads on the tank but only a few finger swipes worth. however it was quite liquid still, so hopefully can be easily diluted.
I then put a gallon of acetone in the tank, will drain it later today, and then run it through the fuel pump to the injectors and manually activate the injectors.
can anyone tell me if the injectors will stay in the fuel rail with out being held down to the intake?.
I drained the tank, and didn't get much more than I put in before I started it, so that means there wasn't much gas in there to begin with.(so I hope minimal varnish) I pulled the strainer (which by the way, was torn and very brittle the strainer material broke just by touching it!) There was a little varnish around the bottom of the strainer threads on the tank but only a few finger swipes worth. however it was quite liquid still, so hopefully can be easily diluted.
I then put a gallon of acetone in the tank, will drain it later today, and then run it through the fuel pump to the injectors and manually activate the injectors.
can anyone tell me if the injectors will stay in the fuel rail with out being held down to the intake?.
10-07-2019 | 08:14 AM
#26
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From: New York & Indiana
Ok I think I can 90% confirm this is the case. I felt the valve stems and they were extremely sticky! SO what im assuming happened is that when the engine was running they were getting coated with a thin layer of varnish. When the engine was warm the gas would evaporate and leave the varnish was left behind, but while it was wet, it was ok, once it cooled it became very sticky and slowed the movement of the valves.
I drained the tank, and didn't get much more than I put in before I started it, so that means there wasn't much gas in there to begin with.(so I hope minimal varnish) I pulled the strainer (which by the way, was torn and very brittle the strainer material broke just by touching it!) There was a little varnish around the bottom of the strainer threads on the tank but only a few finger swipes worth. however it was quite liquid still, so hopefully can be easily diluted.
I then put a gallon of acetone in the tank, will drain it later today, and then run it through the fuel pump to the injectors and manually activate the injectors.
The fuel injectors only pulse on cranking the engine to start or running. Yes, removing the fuel rail, the injectors are secured to the fuel rail by a locking clip
can anyone tell me if the injectors will stay in the fuel rail with out being held down to the intake?.
I drained the tank, and didn't get much more than I put in before I started it, so that means there wasn't much gas in there to begin with.(so I hope minimal varnish) I pulled the strainer (which by the way, was torn and very brittle the strainer material broke just by touching it!) There was a little varnish around the bottom of the strainer threads on the tank but only a few finger swipes worth. however it was quite liquid still, so hopefully can be easily diluted.
I then put a gallon of acetone in the tank, will drain it later today, and then run it through the fuel pump to the injectors and manually activate the injectors.
The fuel injectors only pulse on cranking the engine to start or running. Yes, removing the fuel rail, the injectors are secured to the fuel rail by a locking clip
can anyone tell me if the injectors will stay in the fuel rail with out being held down to the intake?.
The fuel filter removes particles larger than can pass thru the injector.
I would suggest once the fuel system is clean between the tank and the fuel rail is installing a 40 mesh filter or less, I have a 10 mesh filter, just before the inlet to fuel rail.
Send the fuel injectors to SouthBay Fuel Injector Service, website for details, for cleaning and testing.
IMO, the cylinder head needs a refresh.
10-12-2019 | 09:45 PM
#27
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From: Rocky mtn High
so heres an update to the situation, and hopefully been solved.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...l#post10621882
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...l#post10621882