The inserts are glued in from the factory. Most people ruin theirs trying to remove them. There is no difference between the early and late model shift *****. The insert may be a tight fit but it will fit and over time the leather will flatten out making the ingress/egress of the insert slightly easier.

[shamless plug] If you are looking for a new insert, I sell both a shift pattern version and a "turbo" logo version in stainless steel with a brushed finish. Travis at Rennbay also distributes these for me. [end shameless plug]

 

The difference is in the shift boot itself, not the actual **** underneath. I have both an early and late **** here and they are the same. I was referring to the covered **** in my post. AGLA is offering a **** and boot combo hence why they offer two different parts.

 

Joe, How did you get these ***** with the circular bottoms to fit on the rectangular shift lever? What kind of adapter did you use?

thx

 

If you are referring to the shifter inserts I sell, they don't replace the whole ****. The only part replaced is the plastic insert. The factory **** with it's rectangular base is retained.

 

Momo Competition wheel & F16 **** which replaced my Superanatomic- I might go back- I'm not sure if I like it better or not- doesn't look quite like it does in pics although it's still really nice IMO... I'll get some pics in the next day or so....


Cyrus, etc- I THINK the shift lever is different b/t the early & late ones, but am not positive- I also thought the NA's had a 2-pc ****/boot as opposed to hte Turbo's 1-pc- maybe it's only 924(?). I'm not positive about all this though... Now, Sami & Ringo could have regular square ends since they used other Porsche *****- those ***** could be the same & not round like Momo's(?)- Ringo, Sami....?


Cyrus- some of these guy's have dif levers to use Momo's, unless, like I said, early &/or NA's might be dif(?). SFR & others cut thee end off stock levers & welded a round end on- they usually cut a little extra off, to shorten the throw- makes it tougher to shift into gear- more effort is required b/c of less leverage- I bought one from Dave Harrington ~2yrs ago- I THINK he & Turbo Tim worked together on them- something happened, though, & they are not exactly friends anymore IIRC- the DH one is adj in 2 places- just like the Lindsey Racing one, BUT, it's adj at the bottom too- you actually RAISE this part to make the throw shorter as it's b/t the stationary base & the pivot point- adjusting the top either raises or lowers it. DH was $70 (S&H included)- LR's was $175- SFR wanted $100 IIRC- this was modified factory IIRC- I think they're cheaper now- if you can just get a round piece of steel, of the right size, you can cut your stock one & weld it on.... The Momo's come w/dif size sleeves, so, you can pick from several sizes of steel even- not sure how easy that would be either.

Their are several probs w/aftermarket ones though- DH vibrates badly- I'm sure LR does too & have heard this about several other designs- I've been working on this for a long time now & have found SEVERAL reasons. Stock lever has 2 rubber rings wrapped TIGHTLY around it to dampen vibrations- rubber sleeves ~1" tall. The stock rod/pin that connects w/the linkage is welded to ONE side as it's a 1-pc lever- DH (& LR, etc) has 2-pc-the pin slides THROUGH one side, through the linkage, & the OTHER side & you clip it on IIRC- MIGHT be a bolt- can't remember- I'll see it again VERY SOON- well, I think the 1-pc keeps the vibrations down a little more by leaving the ends open so the vibrations don't keep circulating, but, am not sure- A big thing is: the linkage pin gets worn to shape over the years- the new DH, LR, etc, one wont normally fit the exact wear pattern of YOUR stock linkage. It all adds up- not to mention the fact that reducing the throw by the BOTTOM adjuster (the best way to reduce the throw short of actually changing the throw at the trans like Autothority)- it can only be changed a MINIMAL amount- you RAISE it to shorten the throw- THIS changes the ANGLE of the linkage & it makes noise- mine was ~3/4" higher & that was too much- it's ~even w/stock now as I was afraid it might hurt something, so, my throw's just reduced a TINY bit from that, plus, however much shortening the lever ~1" did. I mainly bought it to use a Momo ****, but, if it starts to vibrate again, AFTER I fix it this time, I'm going to cut my factoy lever & this DH lever & weld the end of the DH to the factory- it's gotten pretty annoying I have wrapped a large section of it w/dyna mat type stuff & wrapped duct tape around that to keep it on- weird, I know, but, what else can I do? I also need a new inner boot...

Sorry for the book, but, I just thought you might like some inside info should you decide to buy one & might want to know what to expect- I think the SFR is probably the best way to go, IF you are sending him YOUR lever & having him weld a new round end onto it- Tim is a good guy & if you asked him to specifically use yours to modify for YOU, I'm sure he'd do it- he MAY already do it this way anyway, but, I was thinking he had some sort of core thing going or something- not sure...

BTW- Joe- I really like the inserts you make- I think I'd get the "Turbo" script if I went back to factory ****- I think I'd probably have to do a few more aluminum accents to go along w/it though- I really like some of the brushed aluminum trim pieces I've seen lately...