Emergency Brake Shoes Replacement - Write Up?
02-20-2004, 08:05 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Emergency Brake Shoes Replacement - Write Up?
I'm getting ready to replace these to make the E-brake operative again, together with the rear brake pads in my 83 and would like to see if anyone has a write up on the procedure, or can give me some pointers.
It's pretty well laid out in the Haynes manual, but this reference is known for overlooking helpful tips, so your input is appreciated.
It's pretty well laid out in the Haynes manual, but this reference is known for overlooking helpful tips, so your input is appreciated.
02-20-2004, 10:07 PM
#2
Race Car
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Costa Mesa, California
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Just like the brakes on VW's. Just have to take the disk calipers off first. The only time I've seen it necessary to replace the parking brake shoes is when someone has left the brake on. Luis???
02-20-2004, 10:23 PM
#3
The haynes does a fine job laying out what you need to do. I used that when I had to replace mine. Mine needed replacing because the actual shoes started breaking off and getting caught and making all kinds of noises.
02-21-2004, 09:01 AM
#5
Three Wheelin'
One minor but important detail regarding parking brake retaining springs:
There is a proper way to install the parking brake retaining springs. I always use new springs, BTW. If they are not rotated and seated properly, they can and will work loose and cause problems. Quite often, people turn and set the springs without verifying that the hooks are properly seated. they can't rotate loose when seated properly. The fun part on the aluminum trailing arm cars is that at least one spring hook position cannot be verified because you can't see the hook once the spring is installed. Long story short, index the spring so you know when the hook is facing down and rotate the spring to that position with a screwdriver. If seated properly, you should not be able to rotate it unless it's compressed. See pics.
There is a proper way to install the parking brake retaining springs. I always use new springs, BTW. If they are not rotated and seated properly, they can and will work loose and cause problems. Quite often, people turn and set the springs without verifying that the hooks are properly seated. they can't rotate loose when seated properly. The fun part on the aluminum trailing arm cars is that at least one spring hook position cannot be verified because you can't see the hook once the spring is installed. Long story short, index the spring so you know when the hook is facing down and rotate the spring to that position with a screwdriver. If seated properly, you should not be able to rotate it unless it's compressed. See pics.
02-21-2004, 11:09 AM
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Those are some rockin' tips, guys. Thanks for all the help! Socal, I can't remember if I've ever left the E-Brake on in the 10 years I've owned the car, but last time I had it at a shop they tried adjusting it and the lever still clicks when I pull it up, but the brakes won't hold the car still on an incline.
Scary, although I've been "heel & toeing" more and more, to the point where I don't need the E-Brake to start the car up a steep hill.
Scary, although I've been "heel & toeing" more and more, to the point where I don't need the E-Brake to start the car up a steep hill.
