Clutch master replacement options?
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Clutch master replacement options?
Do you guys do any clutch master cylinder mods? Up the ratio or anything? Upgrade to an aluminum one to save a few grams?
Or, are their any cheap replacement options from a VW or something that fit?
Well, the slave too I suppose..
I'm planning a shifting refresh from the clutch hydraulics to the shift linkage and trans synchronizers all at about the same time so nothing can ruin anything else..
Or, are their any cheap replacement options from a VW or something that fit?
Well, the slave too I suppose..
I'm planning a shifting refresh from the clutch hydraulics to the shift linkage and trans synchronizers all at about the same time so nothing can ruin anything else..
#2
Nordschleife Master
Ftw change the master, slave, hose between master-slave and blue pipe at reservoir all at the same time. Stick with stock Porsche parts and bench prime the master and slave before fitting.
#3
Rennlist Member
Whatever you do, DON'T ever Eff with the Godzilla spring on the clutch pedal rod. The correct clip to pry off is the second one in the back near the firewall. ASK me how I know..(no don't). There are several posts about how to CORRECTLY replace the clutch master and how to bleed the system.. Is this an early or late car? If it's an early car, I can help some.
#4
Pro
Thread Starter
I got sick of it and just put a new FTE clutch master and slave on.. I left the old pushrod right on the clutch pedal and slipped it into the new master as I put it through the firewall so I didn't take anything apart by that spring...
Bleeding was easy.. I just opened the slave bleeder and let it drain/flush fluid for a couple minutes until a few OZ of fluid drained out, shook the bubbles out of the res line a couple times, closed the slave bleeder after a while, and the clutch works like a charm..
It's a 924 Turbo so same parts as early 944.. Hardest part was probably putting the nuts back on the firewall studs that go through the master.. I could get a ratchet into there fine to tighten/loosen them, but starting the nuts with my fingers was a trick..
Bleeding was easy.. I just opened the slave bleeder and let it drain/flush fluid for a couple minutes until a few OZ of fluid drained out, shook the bubbles out of the res line a couple times, closed the slave bleeder after a while, and the clutch works like a charm..
It's a 924 Turbo so same parts as early 944.. Hardest part was probably putting the nuts back on the firewall studs that go through the master.. I could get a ratchet into there fine to tighten/loosen them, but starting the nuts with my fingers was a trick..