Rear CV Joints- repair or replace??
02-12-2004, 06:23 PM
#1
Nerd Herder
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Thread Starter
Rear CV Joints- repair or replace??
I just started hearing the "clicking" on the LR side. I suspect the CV's are about to go. It is intermittent with no reason or logic- sometimes cold, sometimes warm- sometimes I dont hear it at all. but about 70% of the time I hear a loudish "clack" which increases in speed in accordance with the speedo from the LR corner, on deceleration it dissappears.
So- new CV time? is it better to rebuild/ replace? Both sides instead of one?
GAWD I love my car.. Thanks Tifo, the new rear brakes are awesome-- and a million thanks nine-44.. Andy you da man.
So- new CV time? is it better to rebuild/ replace? Both sides instead of one?
GAWD I love my car.. Thanks Tifo, the new rear brakes are awesome-- and a million thanks nine-44.. Andy you da man.
02-12-2004, 06:59 PM
#3
Nerd Herder
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Kinda what I was thinking- 100$ per rebuild kit (performance) - Is there a better (and cheaper) source?
02-12-2004, 07:44 PM
#5
Addict
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I've heard of flipping them to buy some time, it's temporary tho. You just flip the joints to run on the not as worn side in the races of the CV.
02-12-2004, 08:49 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
Chris, I'm not sure about the rebuild kit you mentioned for $100, but I can tell you that on the early cars like my 83 the CV joints and cheesehead bolts are essentially VW parts available at your local import parts store that stocks parts for VW.
The CV joint VW part number is: 211.501.331 and the cheesehead bolt part number is: 113.501.229C. I compared the VW CV to one in a Löbro set I bought, and they were identical, but the generic VW part didn't have any numbers on it. Both had black metal races with steel colored bearings.
I recently did the driver side axle on the 83 and it's unlikely that you'll need to replace the boots. The only item that's at risk are the bolts, as they can strip if you don't use a torque wrench and the proper triple square bit. Usually, the CV attached to the tranny is the first to fail, as it gets direct heat from the exhaust.
For the bits, you can buy a Lisle set (#60750) at your local Pep Boys for about $15 which includes 4 bits in 6, 8, 10 and 12mm. You'll need the 8mm to work on the bolts. The bits are 1/2" hex drive, so get a 1/2" deep socket to use them with the torque wrench.
There's a pretty good write up in Clark's Garage, as usual, or check some recent posts on CVs, as many good tips were posted, like using Loctite on the bolts, cleaning the holes of grease with cotton swabs before running the bolts through, etc.
It's not a difficult job, just messy (as in tons of grease). Do you have a Hayne's manual? Some pretty good instructions with photos there, too. Make sure to mark the original position of everything with nail polish like it says in Hayne's. Makes everything much easier.
Post back if you get stuck!
The CV joint VW part number is: 211.501.331 and the cheesehead bolt part number is: 113.501.229C. I compared the VW CV to one in a Löbro set I bought, and they were identical, but the generic VW part didn't have any numbers on it. Both had black metal races with steel colored bearings.
I recently did the driver side axle on the 83 and it's unlikely that you'll need to replace the boots. The only item that's at risk are the bolts, as they can strip if you don't use a torque wrench and the proper triple square bit. Usually, the CV attached to the tranny is the first to fail, as it gets direct heat from the exhaust.
For the bits, you can buy a Lisle set (#60750) at your local Pep Boys for about $15 which includes 4 bits in 6, 8, 10 and 12mm. You'll need the 8mm to work on the bolts. The bits are 1/2" hex drive, so get a 1/2" deep socket to use them with the torque wrench.
There's a pretty good write up in Clark's Garage, as usual, or check some recent posts on CVs, as many good tips were posted, like using Loctite on the bolts, cleaning the holes of grease with cotton swabs before running the bolts through, etc.
It's not a difficult job, just messy (as in tons of grease). Do you have a Hayne's manual? Some pretty good instructions with photos there, too. Make sure to mark the original position of everything with nail polish like it says in Hayne's. Makes everything much easier.
Post back if you get stuck!
