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944/NA/1/1985 Start Wiring and rear main seal questions
Hey Everyone, I bought a 944/NA/1/1985 in project/salvage condition, and am currently taking out the rear main seal, it's not coming out... But per this video :
It looks like i'm going to have the cut it out while being careful not to scratch the crank. Same goes for the pilot bearing, I'm getting a chisel to cut it out. Just wondering if I can get some confirmation on whether or not that's the best approach?
However another issue I'm dealing with is that the starter wiring doesn't seem to exist. I was wondering if this wiring is for the starter? Please see the attached pictures.
I'd also like to thank anyone taking the time to read this.
And after further researching into the rear main gasket seal. I took a look at it and there's like a little spring on the inside of the circle, so it's easier to pull the rear main seal from the other side of the indention, rather than using the indention for leverage.
I'll be using the bread technique to get the pilot bearing out. After trying to use a pilot bearing puller from autozone it proved ineffective. If that doesn't work I'll be chiseling it out. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...val-bread.html
My understanding is it's excellent. If I remember correctly, last year I used one of those cheapo orange handled hook-type pullers. Very carefully. It worked, but I didn't like it.
For the pilot bearing, I bought the Harbor Frieght mini slide hammer set for $29 USD; sadly, it appears to no longer be available. Regular slide hammer ends are too big, as you've discovered.
For installing the RMS, I recommend you order the excellent tool from Arnworx. Order it now. You won't regret it
My rear main seal is super baked on. Rear engine looks rusty.
My car hasn't run in 15 years from my understanding. So that's why I'm having issues with the pilot bearing and seal.
The rms installer from arnworx is 41$... Is that really worth it? I know that not properly installing it will be more of a headache than losing 40$, but damn. It's just a helper tool, why's it so expensive....
My rear main seal is super baked on. Rear engine looks rusty.
My car hasn't run in 15 years from my understanding. So that's why I'm having issues with the pilot bearing and seal.
The rms installer from arnworx is 41$... Is that really worth it? I know that not properly installing it will be more of a headache than losing 40$, but damn. It's just a helper tool, why's it so expensive....
When you have the new seal in hand, go to hardware store and buy a PVC coupler (in the range of 4") that will fit the seal's metal clad push surface diameter.
You can even buy a PVC cap, glue it on and have that as a striking surface.
These seals aren't hard to go in.
See if you can get a small screwdriver tapped in between the old seal and the aluminum flange and pry old one out.
On the pilot bearing, preferably you are going to use the metal clutch alignment tool set anyway, so you have the set of different sized pilot bearing inserts with the tool set.
Find the one that fits the pilot bearing ID and screw it to the tool (handle for lack of better term).
Pack grease into the hole of the pilot bearing's ID, filling the void between there and the crankshaft.
Insert clutch pilot tool and strike hard with a hammer.
The grease is not compressible and will push bearing out towards you.
My rear main seal is super baked on. Rear engine looks rusty.
My car hasn't run in 15 years from my understanding. So that's why I'm having issues with the pilot bearing and seal.
The rms installer from arnworx is 41$... Is that really worth it? I know that not properly installing it will be more of a headache than losing 40$, but damn. It's just a helper tool, why's it so expensive....
The Lisle tool works as a lever; I bet it would be very effective for you. It's cheap.
The Arnworx tool is 100% worth it. Just look up the cost of the official tool which is more like a fitter you tap in (the Arnworx tool gently installs via threaded points). Given the location of the RMS and the number of times I've read about post-install leaks, plus the fact that I don't change these for a living, the Arnworx tool is one of my favourite purchases. My RMS isn't leaking: that is worth the $40 alone.
Or, just squeeze it in with a block of wood... esp if it's your first RMS. You might get lucky
When you have the new seal in hand, go to hardware store and buy a PVC coupler (in the range of 4") that will fit the seal's metal clad push surface diameter.
You can even buy a PVC cap, glue it on and have that as a striking surface.
These seals aren't hard to go in.
That's what I thought, except when I went to install my RMS using a similar diy tool, it was hardly easy. I am betting many people on this forum are not mechanics and don't have the years of hand-tool experience or feel. I am one of those. Tapping on the seal resulted in a game of which side went in too far first: I could not evenly tap it for the life of me. In my case, it is a very tight fit! I assume they are all like that. I went through two seals--mangled them trying to tap them in--before buying the Arnworx tool and perfectly setting it one thread at a time. For someone like me, it's pure gold.
The Pilot bearing went in real nice & easy tapping on a socket
God, even the bread's not working. lol I was really excited to be pleasantly surprised. I'm probably gonna try the bread again tomorrow and just resort to chiseling that PITA out.
Now i'm worried i might be crawling in ants tomorrow though
Yeah I'm not a mechanic. So I'm probably just gonna buy that arnworx thing. I'll pay the 40$ for a mechanic in a box. Thanks everyone for the help!
@van, I saw that video and really appreciate it! It's helped me with the whole process up until the main seal and the pilot. Those things are so stuck
TL;DR
blow torch to pilot bearing and pilot bearing puller got the pilot bearing out (be careful)
seal puller for rear main seal was hugely helpful and Arnnworx seal installer was a good idea
So update on this situation, I ended up getting a really good mobile mechanic out to pop the pilot bearing out. He ended up putting a blowtorch to it and spraying water on it and used the pilot bearing puller that looked like this :
After a couple of hours of flame and using trial and error with the pilot bearing it came out. I definitely wasn't using the pilot bearing puller effectively. Be sure to have a good understanding of the pilot bearing puller :
I also got a seal puller and just hooked into the rear main seal and pulled it out after a couple of hours. I highly suggest the seal puller it gave me way more of a hook and more leverage to pop that thing out.
Although i probably scratched the crank a little bit... Meh, I'll sand it down with 400 grit and pray.
The seal puller i got was from oreilly :
So I'm finally at the stage where I can start installing stuff!
I'm really glad I bought that arnnworx rear main seal installer. I can DEFINITELY see how that tool can easily save you hours if not days to get the rear main seal put in properly.
Thanks for the suggestion and all the help guys!
Nice! I'm a little surprised that bearing puller fits; our pilots are quite small and one such puller I tried was too big to fit the arms in. You must have been nervous with all that heating lol
Yeah, so actually I chiseled the inner part away and then we pulled out the outer bearing using the bearing puller. lol, the car hadn't started in like 10-15 years I think so it was rusted in there good.
Also, to push the pilot bearing in, I designed a CAD file that can be 3d printed so you can insert it into the pilot bearing and not have to hold it and hit your freaking fingers 10 times and get bruises...
03-20-2019, 02:01 PM
944/NA/1/1985 Start Wiring and rear main seal questions
