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T- I did the procedure again. This time i adjusted the master rod and pulled it back 3 thread, and the clutch engages at the top of the stroke now and pops back. I think it's compensating for the fact that i don't have to pres it all the way down, but until i get to the bottom of it, i'll live with it.
Can anybody let me know how many threads they count on their master cylinder rod? On my original 944, i recall it being 7 exposed and the locknut was on the 8th. On this it was 5 though the clutch was previous changed (found out after i took it apart and inspected the manufacture date on the clutch, it was rubber core but good shape). It might have been the rod, i just don't want to prematurely wear out the clutch with the high engagement.
How much free travel do you have? this is the distance that you can push the pedal in before you feel it make contact with the throwout arm inside the clutch. If you don't have any free travel, time to make an adjustment because the clutch will be engaged all the time and you will wear out the clutch preamaturely. You need to have a bit of "slop" there. The WSM probably gives an exact measurement. Haynes manual probably does too. If you have too much free travel, you will run out of clutch travel before you get disengagement of the clutch. just sayin..
The Workshop Manual reports that, for proper operation, inside the slave the rod needs a tiny gap which equates to aprox. 3mm clutch pedal "free play". This is near-impossible to measure but you can feel it easy.
This is similar to the brake pedal. Tap the brake pedal. Your clutch pedal should have the same loose tap at the top.
Can anybody count the number of threads on their rod from the master cylinder back to the lock but in their working clutch?
Ill check tomorrow on the play, before I put it back together where it is now I pressed in before engaging, the clutch doesn’t slip and I don’t smell smoke, so I’m not sure if it’s rubbing.
sorry for the broken English, some of this is on my phone.
T- I did the procedure again. This time i adjusted the master rod and pulled it back 3 thread, and the clutch engages at the top of the stroke now and pops back. I think it's compensating for the fact that i don't have to pres it all the way down, but until i get to the bottom of it, i'll live with it.
Can anybody let me know how many threads they count on their master cylinder rod? On my original 944, i recall it being 7 exposed and the locknut was on the 8th. On this it was 5 though the clutch was previous changed (found out after i took it apart and inspected the manufacture date on the clutch, it was rubber core but good shape). It might have been the rod, i just don't want to prematurely wear out the clutch with the high engagement.
you have the right plan. Mone did the same thing when I replaced my slave and master. I had adjusted rod to where it was for the old one and installed and could not get the system to bleed. Peddle to the floor. I screwed it out to get full extension of the push rod bleed it and all was good.just had to astust it back to proper position.
Don't count threads or make measurements like that; it varies from install to install. Just screw the rod out until the pedal has that initial "tap tap" no contact--similar to the brake pedal. Then, get under and with a friend pushing watch the travel of the clutch fork. The very end of this video (15:49) is the best visual I can find:
If you didn't mess with the pedal linkage, it is highly unlikely to be the problem given all the other components you changed. Master cylinder rod adjustment not needed. Search this forum, you will find a lot of threads from others who have futzed with their rod adjustment to no useful end.
Start by measuring movement of the clutch fork cup / slave cylinder rod at the inspection port on the clutch bell. I forget what the WSM calls for, think its 12 - 15 mm of travel. If you don't get this, you have air in the system. You cannot reliably get air out with the car sitting level. You need to get its rear end high enough in the air that the MC is level. Get a small bubble level, make sure you're not fighting gravity. Use a positive pressure bleeder on the reservoir. Negative pressure bleeders don't work, they're rubbish. As you have the slave bleed valve open, I find that a few smooth, progressive pumps of the clutch pedal can help purge air. Good luck!
man the things you learn. that is a great piece of discovery on the fuse box. Here is an update:
I drove the car at length and had a little play in the pedal to make sure that the clutch didn't engage prematurely. it was great until i hit traffic. When i kept the pedal depressed, i could feel it taking longer and longer to pop back up. it was perfect when i left the house and on the highway. I gave it a couple of pumps and it was almost back to normal. I had the rod adjusted out and the clutch grabbed at the top, but there was slack for a inch or so before engagement (you could hear the squeak i mentioned when the clutch engaged)
has anybody experienced any kind of leak, or problems from the rod hitting the fork and vibrating? I know it's a long shot, and likely it's what is happening, i just can't figure out why the pedal is great, then start to feel like there's resistance on the way back up. Are you supposed to have item #4 on the diagram attached:
I don't have that spring and it might be the culprit? I know it's a small spring, but often that's all that's missing on the return for the pedal, just a little nudge.
I had a slave slowly fail like that... Seemed like fliuid was getting on the wrong side of the seal... Clutch was getting slower to return and eventually lost it... Had to wait till rush hour was over and drove home with no clutch... Anyhow, one test you could do (to make sure your new parts are actually good) is when you get the car home at night jam a pry bar from the clutch to the seat and leave pressure on the system overnight. If you have no clutch in the morning then there is an internal slow leak...
just an update, i shortened the rod, has been working well for the last 5 days. it still sticks every now and then, but engages well enough. I think the problem might have been that i was pressing the pedal in too deep. Is there such a thing?
just an update, i shortened the rod, has been working well for the last 5 days. it still sticks every now and then, but engages well enough. I think the problem might have been that i was pressing the pedal in too deep. Is there such a thing?
I have only ever owned manual cars, and I've never had one that behaved differently (ie. incorrectly) if you pressed the clutch to the floor; in fact, that's how you're supposed to do it. I just hope you've got the necessary free play and enough travel for full release. Check at the inspection hole!
03-08-2019, 08:07 PM
