wildcat077

Out of curiosity i checked the price of the Swepco 20w50 oil ... Yikes , it's like $166.00 Canadian for a US gallon !
Think i'll stick with my "cheap " Amsoil 15W50 Dominator oil !
I'm also building a new $$$ engine after the balance shaft blew out of my other engine and put a nice aeration
hole in the block !

T, what are your thoughts on Calico coated rod bearings as compared to OEM Glyco ?

951and944S

Is the shipping or duties astronomical...?

Paragon Products carries SwepCo 306 @ $8.40/qt.

We used to run SwainTech coated stock Glyco bearings until I switched off the 944T rods.
No real trouble to speak of, replacing them every xx hours on engine.
One extra benefit of the MM race bearing rod modification is that the bearings are narrower.
He can perform the changeover mod to the harder/coated race bearing shells on 944T/stock rods as well, no need to buy $$ rods if you want to convert to a better bearing.
Best $300 (est) you can spend afaic.

T

Dwizle

:SwainTech coated stock Glyco bearings: What was you RR schedule how many hours did they last??

One extra benefit of the MM race bearing rod modification is that the bearings are narrower.: I've heard talk of this before what exactly is done to the bearing/Rods and I heard He was retired is he still doing this MOD?

951and944S

Pretty vague answer, because we never used an hour meter (until current car/engine build) so we'd just change them as routine every 1-2 years, estimating 3-4 hours actual track time per weekend event, 8-10 events per year. We never found them in poor condition at replacement so it's hard to say what life would have been.
The feature gives a lower friction benefit but mainly, it's purpose is to help preserve in short incidents of less than normal oil supply.
In lieu of going with the MM 'Rod Mod', it's a fair benefit for the investment at only $30 per set of bearings -
http://swaintech.com/race-coatings/a...s-price-sheet/ - engine bottom end components/bearings PPM 4 cylinder rod
Does nothing for the issue that the stock bearings are of a really soft material.

We do the mains too, because let's face it, if your oil clearance and condition of crank and bearings at the mains are out of spec, you are already compromising supply to the rods.

I'm going to eventually come with some simple line drawings, pics, etc. and give my own take on aspects of things you can do to minimize risk but I'm deep into studying exhaust theory in my spare time and generally had a lot going on atm.

Can't speak for Michael, but it's my understanding that he doesn't do whole engine projects anymore and is semi/retired.
Pretty certain (I have a set of rods en route to him now) that he will do small machine jobs if you email him.
He just finished a 16V cylinder head and cam setup for me, something I would normally do myself on the 8V engines we race, but he is so thorough, knowledgeable and uncompromising that I am glad I went that route and thankful he offered to take it on for me.

T

T&T Racing

Hi Dwizle,
If I was in your situation, my first step is to blueprint, take micrometer measurements of all key components, ie cylinder wall diameter, piston diameter, fat end diameter of connecting rod, crankshaft main and rod journal bearings, etc. to determine any out of spec measurements.

You can take the $$$ you want to spend drilling the 944 rod journals on the crankshaft that nobody has done since the #2 cylinder rod bearing issue raised at least 2 decades ago
or blue print the engine block and rotating elements.

It is your call

Dwizle

Current Motor will stay the way it is until the original motor is finished being built as a 2.85L stroker Motor will have 4.030 Chevy pistons Stock 6 Bolt 4G63 Turbo Rods With ACL Coated Rod bearing
Windage Ports cut into lower Block and the rod journal drilled so the oil tries to make a straighter exit out the Journal like they said air is lighter than oil and it will make the corner faster than the oil so why help the oil flow a little easier where I can. The whole rotating assy from Alt Pulley to Fly wheel will be balanced as an Assembly also I will try to keep the crank case under a sight Vacum by pluming the AOS system the the exhaust but Baffling the AOS so its just Vapors and Blow by that gets sucked into the exhaust if I get rid of the free air it doesn't make it into the oil just have to limit the amount of vacum in the engine. Oil Pan will have LR oil pan Baffle kit installed oil pan had the platic Baffle in place. So hopefully hopefully with all those things It lives a longer second life. It's a sports car it will be driven fast and Hard. Also I think as added measure pour a Quart of oil down the oil filter housing so it primes the pump quicker I think that's where the failure started on the 87 motor I had removed the head to replace the valves the car had not been driven hard...

Otto Mechanic

Personally looking forward to the results of your experiment. It seems well designed as long as you stick to your single factor modification.

Regards,