Lowering my 1986 944 - Torsion Bar Delete or Not?
#16
Nordschleife Master
I am probably just missing something but I noticed this on clarks page a week ago, and then obviously here as quoted...
He starts by saying a 30mm sway, but then the next line he says you may prefer the 26 sway over the 27? But the 27 sway was never mentioned prior, and I do not recall ever seeing a 27mm sway listed anyplace? So is he really talking about the sway bar or is he actually referring to the torsions, just made a typo? I believe he meant torsion bar as then the next sentence he talks about 28mm to induce a more oversteer.
He starts by saying a 30mm sway, but then the next line he says you may prefer the 26 sway over the 27? But the 27 sway was never mentioned prior, and I do not recall ever seeing a 27mm sway listed anyplace? So is he really talking about the sway bar or is he actually referring to the torsions, just made a typo? I believe he meant torsion bar as then the next sentence he talks about 28mm to induce a more oversteer.
#17
Racer
On my 951, when I lowered it this past fall, I used the Paragon coil over kit on the front with 250# springs and yellow Konis and 28mm torsion bars and yellow Konis. Rather than thinking of lowering the car by an inch or two, my target was 25 inches from the highest point of the arch to the ground at all four corners. From what I understand this is a reasonable lowering for our cars that retains good suspension geometry. My car looks nicely stances and is amazing on a twisty mountain road. Ride is stiff but tolerable.
Clarks garage outlines how to calculate torsion bar spline settings when installing, but it struck me as an inexact procedure. Additionally the physical work is substantial. I was very relieved when I saw I got the indexing right on the first try.
Clarks garage outlines how to calculate torsion bar spline settings when installing, but it struck me as an inexact procedure. Additionally the physical work is substantial. I was very relieved when I saw I got the indexing right on the first try.
#18
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If you delete, it will be on the stiff side regardless. You need like a 475 pound rear spring to match a 200 front. Seems like a lot of money for little gain. If its a daily, I would just add 200 fronts on it, get a bigger rear sway bar and lower the eccentrics, but its going to understeer. With 200's you are talking about a F/R ratio of 1.44, which isn't ideal. 2 inches is too much for a 944. That's probably the limit of a comfortable setup without getting stiffer and spending $$$. Over 200 you are going to have to address the rear in some fashion. Some guys go 250 front and add a 175 rear helper. That will run you about $1,000 in parts, $500 in labor and $300 for the alignment.
#19
Don't waste time and money on coilovers. You can lower with torsion and always go back up later if you like. Personally, I wouldn't lower my street ride, not willing to sacrifice comfort. That said, setting torsion is clearly a PITA.
#20
#21
After reading what you guys have said, I think I plan on going with Koni adjustable struts in the rear with a 26mm torsion bar. Ill start by lowering via eccentric bolts but if I'm not happy with that I will re index. In the front I am going with 200# paragon coilover kit and koni adjustable
For some context: I have just over a 1 inch gap between my tires and fender currently with 15" phone dials and 205/60's. Lowering the car 2 inches will give me just under 1 inch of tire tuck, thats very minimal in all honesty, and when I put 16" phone dials on with 205/50 I'll even get back some space with the lower profile tire. should be tucking around .5-.75 inches of tire in the end.
For some context: I have just over a 1 inch gap between my tires and fender currently with 15" phone dials and 205/60's. Lowering the car 2 inches will give me just under 1 inch of tire tuck, thats very minimal in all honesty, and when I put 16" phone dials on with 205/50 I'll even get back some space with the lower profile tire. should be tucking around .5-.75 inches of tire in the end.
#22
Racer
After reading what you guys have said, I think I plan on going with Koni adjustable struts in the rear with a 26mm torsion bar. Ill start by lowering via eccentric bolts but if I'm not happy with that I will re index. In the front I am going with 200# paragon coilover kit and koni adjustable
For some context: I have just over a 1 inch gap between my tires and fender currently with 15" phone dials and 205/60's. Lowering the car 2 inches will give me just under 1 inch of tire tuck, thats very minimal in all honesty, and when I put 16" phone dials on with 205/50 I'll even get back some space with the lower profile tire. should be tucking around .5-.75 inches of tire in the end.
For some context: I have just over a 1 inch gap between my tires and fender currently with 15" phone dials and 205/60's. Lowering the car 2 inches will give me just under 1 inch of tire tuck, thats very minimal in all honesty, and when I put 16" phone dials on with 205/50 I'll even get back some space with the lower profile tire. should be tucking around .5-.75 inches of tire in the end.
#23
Having gone through this recently, I could offer a suggestion. I don't think you'll get close to the lowering you want with eccentric adjustment (maybe try it before you tear it apart). Since you are planning to replace your torsion bars, try to get your indexing right for the amount of lowering when you put them in. Truthfully, you have to take indexing into consideration anyway even if you aren't lowering because everything is thrown off from removal. It's not a job you want to do twice if you can avoid it. Good luck with the project!
And to your point above its my expectation as well truthfully, I know I want more of a drop than the bolt will allow. I come from the Acura/Honda world and its funny how 2 inches of drop is nothing over there. I know the suspension acts differently but still...
Last edited by jwolfe; 01-08-2019 at 09:43 AM.
#25
Three Wheelin'
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