Dan Martinic

Sorry, no idea about your spinning thing.

Here are the seals you want; they are number 15 on the diagram and list from the PET. Also a pic of them on my transmission on the bench.

I forget where I got mine but a search for the part number should bring up some places to order. Obviously, you need two (one each side)

Kurt R

Before you order new seals go ahead and drain the gear oil and see how chunky it is.
Based on your description I'm going to agree with Van, you've broken the ring and/or pinion.

mke4now

Two questions following up here and update.

I have everything disconnected or loosened except that top bolt on the bell housing. Took a pic of the drive shaft retainer because it seemed like it was off. Are the spines supposed to be exposed like that, or has it shifted?

Another thing - my rear wheels do not lock when in any gear. Hand brake has never worked - down on the floor, can lift uu with some force, but never locks.

Thanks again guys for all the help!

Dan Martinic

elgy

I just finished reinstalling my transmission in October and it seems to me that length of visible splines is normal, the coupling can't move on the shaft if the bolt is in place (the bottom of the bolt has a some white paint or something on your photo, so it is there).
Most of the seepage on your transmission is normal on an old car, but the seals at the CV joints should be changed if you put that transmission back in. As mentioned you don't need to drain the lubricant, but that would be the first thing I would do... probably you will find lots of metal chips in the oil... which means rebuild or replacement. Replacing with a used one is a lot easier and likely a lot cheaper.