Where do you people come from? While they do run unsually hot you will do nothing but annoy the people behind you. What is the typical EGT from a non-turbo rotary engine?

He indicates nothing more than a cat back so how do you know the cats have been removed? No mention of DP, straightpipe or any other.

Lastly, as much as I have loved mine, if you think they are reliable you must be living on another planet. These things eat Apex seals for lunch. If it is not that then the water seals, if not that then (well you get my point). A modded 13B is a grenade in the making. People deal with it because a monkey and remove and rebuild one.
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This what was done with that car:

stock rebuilt motor with about 20,000 miles, a g-force computer upgrade, centerforce dual friction clutch, fd fuel pump, bigger injectors (no sure what there are), 2-stage boost controler, boost and a/f gauges on pillar, tokico hp shocks with apex springs, performance pulleys(main, waterpump, alternater), removed air pump, no cat, hks catback exhaust, custom turbo inlet piping, removed abs

car also has a standard lsd, and optional leather seats.

the a/c and the heat work which is a plus.

 

Removed ABS?

I think the PO of your car wasnt the brighest of the bunch.

By performance pulleys...I'm guessing lighter and underdrive. So underdriving the waterpump...great.

 

Usually the ABS on these cars leak alot and replacing it costs ALOT, so different types of rx7 tuners made an easy way to bypass the ABS system instead of replacing the entire unit.

 

Heh - when I opened this post I expected it to be about Type II VW air-cooled! Nice car - if a bit "fun" in the wet. With the right exhaust, I've heard some freakishly loud ones.

 

OK, the car is running rich because the air pump is removed. It also means that the 6 pt actuators are not opening, taking a little of the upper power away. There is much debate on this, I have the same thing (sort of) and it runs rich as all get out. Because mine is an NA you can feel the power difference running with only the 4pt.

For the record the ABS units do not leak all the time. My guess is that at some point it failed (you are right about it being very expensive to fix) and to save money it was not replaced. You dont need to remove anything, the brakes work fine without ABS.

Since th car has ABS it should have AAS as well. Are there electrical leads going to the strut areas? Is there a button in the cabin for selective damper. I.e. sport or touring?

If you want more info than you can stand (and a lot of people you cant) go to www.rx7club.com
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Matt, the Turbo Cars are only 4 Port motors (intake) and do not have the actuators. Also he metinoned that he has Tokico Shocks installed. That will eliminate the Sport option in the suspension.

Also, a N/A rotary will last a very long time. My original motor lasted to 276,000 miles. It would have gone longe but I drove the hell out of that car. When it was rebuild I had lost compression on two sides of the rear rotor. Bad corner seal. Held compression above 1500rpm, just would not idle. Drove that car to Florida (From Tulsa) at over 100mph the whole way. 21mpg Average. That car never failed me. It now has over 300k I had some work done to it during the rebuild. 89' Rotors instead of 87' Regrooved to 3mm to use the 12A apex seals. Enlarged the oil passage on the Main bearings in the Rotors. Installed a Turbo Oil Pressure regulator. 12lb Flywheel. Had the entire rotating assembly balanced. Mild intake port. Racing Beat headers and the 6th ports wired fully open. She runs pretty rich now but goes like a bat outda hell. She is no where near as fast as my 951, but for a N/A she is very very quick.

A turbo motor on the other hand can last days or years. Although I have seen releatively few Turbo Rotaries last beyond 100k miles without a rebuild.

If I owned one with ABS, I would probably disconnect it as well.

 

The ABS on those old japanese cars was fairly worthless. It's common practice to remove it on the StarQuests too, just to save some weight.

There's a FAQ page somewhere for those older RX7's on building your own TPS alignment tool, it only consisted of a couple of light bulbs and a plug. Pretty simple to make and use.

Do the TII's have the same issues with injectors as the N/A's did? Mine would always flood out after a short trip to the store.....

And as far as the exhaust heat goes..... My rear bumper had melted on my 86 N/A. Heck, how many other cars out there do you know of with an Exhaust temp idiot light, and a temp sensor under the passenger's seat?

 

W88 - I have had now 6 NAs and 3 TIIs (you are right about the 4pt, been a long while since I ahd a TII). I have right now TWO NAs that need motors, both well under 150K miles. One at 97 or so. I am glad you had such good luck. I for one, see these cars advertised every day with "great body interior, no motor" sometimes 2-3 a day. The turbo cars are even worse. As much as I wanted a 3rd gen, I decided to wait until I could afford to have a spare motor handy at all times. Add to that the impossibly difficult sequential turbo setup that fails with regularity and you have a car that is not even remotely close to reliable (I know apples to oranges). I would be inclined to never touch a modified T-II second hand.

88Blue - TPS adjustment tool is just a few light, there are 2 methods and they can be found anywhere. The flooding is not generally caused by injectors but rather by low compression. I have had cars that NEVER did that and I have had ones where every day was a crap shoot.
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Now I'm trying to decide what type of mod can I go for next? It seems that mod wise theirs not much you can do . I have a BOV coming in this week, but I'm looking for something that will give it more power.

 

crank the boost and lets find out how long she lasts...

 

They are VERY reliable, however, you need to know your getting enough fuel for your increased boost...

I have had 4 T2's with each over 150K on the orig. engine, they are much more reliable then the 3rd Gen twin turbo's...

However, they do use oil by design, so often clueless people forget to check the oil normally and they create more heat so the coolant should be changed every 2 years...Lastly, some people are just not made for Turbo cars...They start them up and immediatly go ball's to the wall! Proper use would be to warm up to normal operating temps before getting on it...You should also let it cool down before shutting it down, or invest in a Turbo timer...

Looks like your best mod is a Down pipe, it replace the precat/exhaust Manifold...
The pully probally refers to a dual alt pully, by taking off the air pump (No need with no cat) you should run a dual alt pully so alt belt doesn't slip at high RPM's...Its a good quality mod...

The Stock Turbo & fuel system can handle about 10 Psi of boost.
Matt: Flodding is caused by both leaking injectors and poor compression...The leaking injectors cause the oil to be washed away from the seals...causing loss of compression when you fire it up...easy fix there as well...

The 2nd Gen T2's are one of the best Sport car values going, anywhere! But as with any car, you should know about them, each has area's to watch out for. I would love to find another T2 or 951

 

i loved my 2g rx

 

Also, the fuel pump has been rewired to the side of the steering column. Switch is down as I crank, switch goes up as soon as the car is about to start up. Great idea, but it makes a nice kill switch too.

The funny thing is I get more questions answered on rennlist than on the rx7club.

Douglas_T, thanks for the information, but your right, its time to invest into a turbo timer, any suggestions?

HAHA, I wish I had that much money to invest into a new engine.

 

That steering column trick was added to keep the car from flooding, very very handy indeed. It works as a nice kill switch as well. If the car floods crank it a few times without the switch, if that doesnt work pull the main fuel relay and crank.
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