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What are your plans with the engine out , and what else do you want to do to the car?
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Originally Posted by herdy44
(Post 19095445)
What are your plans with the engine out , and what else do you want to do to the car?
This car is going to be as original as possible, I've owned it for a long time and just want to do a little restoration to bring it back to better condition than it has ever been in my ownership. Looking forward to getting working A/C as well! |
What a week, my friend Dan came over Sunday before last and we set about extracting the engine in terrible conditions, rain showers and temperatures of about 5C.
Needless to say, I don't have many (any) pictures of the work undertaken during the day as we just wanted to get on with it. In preparation I'd remove the wheel arch liners and unbolted the front bumper, as I was hoping this would provide enough clearance to pull the engine clear of the body. We removed the bumper and set it aside and then had to man handle the engine out from under, this in itself was quite a tricky task as even with two people pulling and wiggling it was still very heavy. Eventually it was clear and lifted it out of the way with the crane. Next step was to reattach the front crossmember, steering rack, control arms, and finally the wheels. The next most tedious task was lowering the car slowly level by level off the axle stands, one side at a time. It was at this moment that £1000+ on a scissor lift or pair of quick jacks didn't seem too much. https://www.porscheclubgb.com/forum/...smiley/lol.gif Finally with the car on all four wheels, I had to go and find my mate Dan, who had gone inside to warm up after freezing his nuts off watching me reassemble the front end. We maneuvered the car into it's temporary parking space and as if by magic it had stopped raining, so I was able to cover the dry (and clean) car with my new outdoor cover from classic additions. We then tidied up, storing the engine, and bumper in the garage and set off to the pub for a late lunch. Pictures below from the next day (which was dry) https://www.porscheclubgb.com/forum/.../smiley/s9.gif http://i.imgur.com/t8BWmeHl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/q1tBc1Tl.jpg I then set about moving the engine and starting to strip off the ancillaries, whilst I waited for some suitable bolts to attach the engine to the stand. I took a picture of the intake valves, which were all lovely and clean, the two closed valves appeared to have some debris in them, the large piece in the photo was actually a tiny fly! (Cylinder 1 - 4) http://i.imgur.com/Ous4M3fl.jpg?1 http://i.imgur.com/wjMUP0Rl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/NjBE8qbl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/y4D5mral.jpg http://i.imgur.com/iBjG5sHl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/NDZhpT2l.jpg Then one evening last week, the mating ritual of the engine crane and stand was performed so I could continue the strip-down. http://i.imgur.com/BavHroJl.jpg Finally onto this weekend and I picked up some strong warehouse shelves locally to store the engine parts on in some sort of order. I also had a good tidy up in the garage, so I didn't trip over stuff whilst trying to strip the engine! https://www.porscheclubgb.com/forum/...smiley/lol.gif http://i.imgur.com/hIpVWszl.jpg Exhaust crossover pipe came off a lot easier than I expected, I only managed to break one bolt (which was the last one). The manifolds also came away pretty easily with the aid of a MAP torch and some RP-90 penetrating fluid. Oddly the second stud from each exhaust port came out with the nut, however the first stud did not. Made me wonder if the assembler put Loctite on the first stud but not the second. http://i.imgur.com/6vkeQaql.jpg http://i.imgur.com/X1DDABFl.jpg I then made sure the engine was at TDC (probably didn't need to strictly speaking), removed the cambelt from the cam gear and set about removing the cam tower. I'd performed a front end reseal along with new tensioners, rollers, belts, and water pump fairly recently so I was pleased when the cam bolt came out without rounding off or needing to be drilled! https://www.porscheclubgb.com/forum/...y/spanner1.gif http://i.imgur.com/Y2AYwAVl.jpg I found out something about the large allen wrench in the toolkit as well, unfortunately though the rubber piece on mine was swollen and wouldn't fit in the hole. http://i.imgur.com/ORfQqmIl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/uatHfRjl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/FvfzgQ1l.jpg I was disappointed and surprised by what greeted me when I removed the cam tower. http://i.imgur.com/J66kBAel.jpg http://i.imgur.com/pYzyM03l.jpg It looks like the gasket has been leaking for some time and was in a pretty bad state, but the oil deposits and "varnish" on the inside isn't what I was expecting. In my ownership that car has had regular oil changes, mainly it was Mobil 1 15W/50, with a couple of changes where I had to use Mobil 1 Extended Life 10W/60, and Promax changes where they used Royal Purple 10W/40. All these oils were "Synthetic" as far as I'm aware. I've read previously, there is some comments to suggest that some oils produce more of these deposits and "varnish" than others, it was intimated that this could be Castrol GTX but not confirmed. Will be interesting to see what the rest of the engine looks like, camshaft, cylinders and sump. |
Well it all started so well, and you will have to read the rest of the post to find out what I'm on about!
So with the cam tower removed, I spent an hour or so one evening this week cleaning up the lifters, marking them with a permanent marker so I know which valve they came from and removing the camshaft from the tower. http://i.imgur.com/JHiWg0Ul.jpg I then began removing the balance shaft belt, camshaft belt, and the gears and pulleys. I had a real fight with the feather key on the crankshaft, which was jammed in and would not come out. Luckily, I remember I had some large oetiker pliers which worked perfectly to grip the key and pull it out. http://i.imgur.com/B3nXwuIl.jpg Unfortunately, I'm a crazy perfectionist so I then decided to completely strip down the mechanical tensioner so I can get it plated properly and the aluminium pieces vapour blasted. Cue spring and "washer" flying across the garage, luckily, I found them relatively quickly, interestingly the spring bolt is slightly bent. I have a vague memory of seeing something similar possibly on another forum about this but as long as it goes back together then we will pretend it was perfectly straight. In fact, it was a good idea I completely stripped it as the eyelet at the end of the bolt was almost completely seized on to the locating pin so wasn't free to move. http://i.imgur.com/MesMlIIl.jpg I'm wondering if I need to replace the A/C compressor pulley and Power Steering pulley to get a nice new look? The existing ones are badly corroded on the face (the rear is in good condition). If they are blasted then it would possibly knock them out of balance, as I can see small weights stuck to the face of both pulleys. Has anyone else replaced these or had them blasted? I think the factory finish might be some sort of plating, so will enquire with the local electroplating shop when I visit them with my big box of parts. http://i.imgur.com/YHsJrr9l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/XnpbWZ8l.jpg I then set about removing the water pump so I could finally remove the cylinder head. Those head bolts were very tight, and hard to undo as my engine stand kept moving around (no brakes). Fortunately, I finally managed to undo them in reverse order of assembly following the Porsche workshop manual. Unfortunately, though I had forgotten to undo the two allen bolts at the front of the head that connect the water channel. I tried to carefully undo them but they both snapped (luckily above the block), so will need to get these addressed by the machine shop. I'd also snapped one of the alternator bracket / console bolts in the same area. I think there may have been some corrosion in this area as it is directly under the coolant bleed valve. Another job for the machine shop. Then after trying to lift the head with nothing happening, I got the big pry bar out and hardly touched the head and heard a satisfying pop as it lifted from the block. I then braced myself and was surprised that the cylinder head is so small and light! I was expecting it to be quite heavy. Nothing like a 4-cylinder VW Polo head I picked up in my late teens. The only thing my untrained eye can see on the head is some hard white deposits on the exhaust valves, also they don't appear to be completely closed? or is that normal. The head gasket looks OK with no signs of coolant mixing with oil or vice versa, and no blown fire rings. http://i.imgur.com/d4OecEsl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/aMXnLeil.jpg Cylinder 1 + 4 look perfect (notice the broken bolt on the left next to cylinder 1). http://i.imgur.com/gB7WT8ol.jpg http://i.imgur.com/sZkukjzl.jpg However, this is when things went a bit south, and in the famous words of David Chapman "Well that's borked!" https://www.porscheclubgb.com/forum/...smiley/lol.gif Cylinder 2 has scoring which can be felt on both sides with a fingernail https://www.porscheclubgb.com/forum/...smiley/s14.gif again cylinder 3 was perfect. http://i.imgur.com/tQvV0OMl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/REtWlCXl.jpg Some close-ups of the scoring in Cylinder 2 https://www.porscheclubgb.com/forum/...smiley/s11.gif http://i.imgur.com/VS06QYEl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/nApkAVjl.jpg I think the next couple of months could be very expensive https://www.porscheclubgb.com/forum/...smiley/lol.gif Will try and speak to the machine shop next week to see what the best option is, I'm also trying to get the car booked into a body shop to get the rear valance corrosion repaired and they battery tray welded back in after I treated the corrosion in the rear cubby. Wössner still have the "questionable" pistons listed on their website and several online stores, interestingly the Mahle online catalog lists their oversized pistons as being available too. I know some who have gone down the liners route, but it would be such a shame to sleeve the block as the other 3 bores look great. Looking at the damage I don't have any galling, they are just tiny scratches. Fingers crossed! https://www.porscheclubgb.com/forum/.../smiley/s5.gif I won't let this stop the progress however, so plan on carrying on stripping the block over the next couple of weeks and then there will be a lot of parts cleaning https://www.porscheclubgb.com/forum/...y/spanner5.gif Have a good weekend folks! |
Really, really nice work!
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Originally Posted by dlknight
(Post 17177167)
Wow I haven't been by in awhile and I've missed some old updates - so here goes, this one is from September 2020, back on lockdown over here in the UK so there will be plenty more updates coming!
First off not long after the last update my car cover arrived so I tested it out, looks awesome but is back in the box currently whilst I drive the car as much as possible before winter. Then when I'm working on it in the garage I can leave the cover in place to protect the bodywork. Attachment 1340720 Attachment 1340721 Then I set about tidying up my grotty keys and alarm fobs, Laserline still supply the original key fobs and you can even purchase a replacement key fob case, I purchased 2 for £20 direct from Laserline :thumb: Attachment 1340722 At the same time I also replaced the broken light bulb in the Porsche key with an ultra-bright white LED using the instructions on the link below. Attachment 1340723 https://drive.google.com/file/d/1C0W...ew?usp=sharing Fixed the false alarms I was getting in hot weather, everytime I left the car outside in hot sun the alarm would start going off. Initially I thought it was the ultrasonics so disabled them when arming the alarm one day and found the alarm still went off. Luckily the Laserline 996v2 flashes an error sequence via the LED (which I didn't know about before but do now). I was seeing 3 flashes ''',''',''' which translates as "Alarm has been triggered by an earth contact circuit; e.g. boot, bonnet or doors have been opened". When the alarm is in this state it will beep when arming to say that something has been left open. This got me thinking I could test all the contact switches whilst arming the alarm to work out which one was faulty. I started with the contact switch which is under the bonnet next to the brake master cylinder. Held it down whilst arming the alarm - bingo! the alarm armed successfully. Having a close look the switch is held down by a bracket on the underside of the bonnet. It looks like 30 years of use had slightly bent the bracket so I gently bent it down to apply more pressure on the switch and I've had no more false alarms since! :thumbs: Attachment 1340724 Attachment 1340725 Knocked off a job that had been on my list to replace the front brake pads before they wear through the pad sensor wires. Time it just right as they were just starting to wear. Calipers are in good condition having had the slide plates replaced about 6 years ago, however a full refurb including fresh paint is also on my list for another time. Gave them a good clean and wipe down with some methyalated spirits to get rid of the brake dust. Attachment 1340726 Attachment 1340727 For awhile now I've been trying to track down an issue with intermittent boost, sometimes I get what appears to be full boost and then it seems to stop for short amount of time and then come back again. After doing some research I thought of a few areas it could be, cycling valve, diverter valve or wastegate. I started with the easiest to diagnose - the diverter valve. I'd fitted a Bailey DV30 sometime ago as a bling upgrade, so after reading some instructions on testing I removed the valve and found that when pushing the valve in with a socket extension it was getting stuck and not releasing. This means that in operation it was sticking open and letting the boost out of the intake manifold and back into the air intake. I tried dismantling and servicing the Bailey diverter valve but found that the o-ring inside had stretched and was too big hence why the valve was getting stuck. Bailey appear to be no more and after I emailed the only email address I could find for them a couple of weeks ago, I've had no reply so I guess my only option is to measure the valve and try and find a replacement o-ring. Attachment 1340728 In the meantime I purchased an OEM diverter valve which are no longer made by Bosch but instead made by a company called Kayser. They are also only available from Porsche as they have a strict agreement in place with the manufacturer to not supply aftermarket. Luckily I found someone on ebay who had a surplus new stock valve for slightly cheaper than Porsche. Attachment 1340729 Also found an issue with the vacuum ports on the inlet manifold, the port that connects with the 2-port banjo bolt and feeds the KLR has come loose in the manifold, I tried my best to remove it using a combination of different spanners and pliers to try and unscrew it but it wouldn't come out so I made sure it was tight and and filled the gaps around it with some araldite until such point as I get work done on the inlet manifold. Attachment 1340730 Happy to say this cured the intermittent boost problem and the car is now boosting properly everytime. However I was now concerned that the car might be overboosting so purchased a new Prosport Evo Premium Boost Gauge. I did lots and lots of window shopping before I chose this gauge. Originally I wanted a mechanical style with a needle but after seeing some videos of this one I just wanted to have it. That and it has a warning and memory peak feature, plus 4 different colours that the display can be changed to including auto-dim with headlights on. Attachment 1340731 Attachment 1340732 Plumbed it into the vacuum feed that goes to the KLR computer using the t-piece that came in the package and then wired it into the head unit wiring (the cable supplied with the gauge is tiny). They supply a jumper cable for additional gauges so you can daisy chain them together instead of having to wire each gauge individually. I will be getting the wideband gauge next! Attachment 1340733 Whilst fitting the boost gauge I also repaired my aftermarket gear knob wiring, it has an awesome red glow on the H pattern which comes on when the lights are on. But the wires they supplied were so thin they broke after repeated use of the gear stick. I managed to solder a short piece of component wire to the remaining end of the wire and then attach a thicker gauge wire to it :thumb: Attachment 1340734 Attachment 1340735 Also over the last couple of weeks I replaced the cheesy blue LEDs I'd put in the instrument panel over ten years ago. Following a thread on rennlist (PM me for a copy of the forum link) I purchased a load of replacement LEDs for the main panel lighting and also some of the warning lights. It is important to get the correct colours for the warning lights as they have filters built into the display. BEFORE Attachment 1340736 I sanded down and recovered the light prisms with some aluminium sticky tape at the same time. Attachment 1340737 Testing the panel with a 9v battery before installing back in the car, I printed the instrument panel circuit diagram out from the workshop manual which helped with testing individual warning lights. Attachment 1340738 AFTER Attachment 1340739 I purchased the following items from an Amazon seller (cannot link as my post is disabled when I do (the fitment of these isn't great so if you can find better quality ones from a different supplier go for it, I had to get a few replacements for ones I broke trying to fit) - 1 x T5 B8.5D Yellow 1 x T5 B8.5D Blue 5 x T5 B8.5D Green 10 x T5 B8.5D Red 3 x T10 W5W 501 168 194 5 x LED 360 degree White LED Doing this I found that the seatbelt warning light had blown a long time ago and I had a new warning light showing up on the test sequence :thumb: I also noticed the parking brake light was not working, on closer inspection the contact switch on the parking brake was completely mangled so I ordered some new ones. Had to temporarily remove the seat to be able to comfortably get to the contact switch and adjust it properly so it doesn't get mangled again. Attachment 1340740 Attachment 1340741 And finally some nice pictures from an evening drive :bye: Attachment 1340742 Attachment 1340743 |
Hi, where did you get this light on the gear shift?
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...0865c2ea1a.jpg |
Originally Posted by dlknight
(Post 19131568)
...
I think the next couple of months could be very expensive https://www.porscheclubgb.com/forum/...smiley/lol.gif Will try and speak to the machine shop next week to see what the best option is, I'm also trying to get the car booked into a body shop to get the rear valance corrosion repaired and they battery tray welded back in after I treated the corrosion in the rear cubby. Wössner still have the "questionable" pistons listed on their website and several online stores, interestingly the Mahle online catalog lists their oversized pistons as being available too. I know some who have gone down the liners route, but it would be such a shame to sleeve the block as the other 3 bores look great. Looking at the damage I don't have any galling, they are just tiny scratches. It is too bad about cylinder 2, especially since the other three were so good. However, it is not deep and there's no galling, so going oversize with the original Alusil block is definitely an option. In my own project (which is dragging on too long), I opted for the Wössner +0.5 mm pistons (but mine is a normally aspirated 16V S motor). I am interested to understand what you mean by "questionable"? My own research on the Wössner pistons for Alusil applications were that they were a pretty decent option, but perhaps there is some other info I have not come across previously. In any case, I am "stuck" with the Wössners in my project, but it is always good to know the latest information! Looking forward to following this project more! |
Originally Posted by Porsche94483
(Post 19150556)
Hi, where did you get this light on the gear shift?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371927274...mis&media=COPY
Originally Posted by 500
(Post 19151577)
This is a really enjoyable thread. The photos and details are interesting and informative.
It is too bad about cylinder 2, especially since the other three were so good. However, it is not deep and there's no galling, so going oversize with the original Alusil block is definitely an option. In my own project (which is dragging on too long), I opted for the Wössner +0.5 mm pistons (but mine is a normally aspirated 16V S motor). I am interested to understand what you mean by "questionable"? My own research on the Wössner pistons for Alusil applications were that they were a pretty decent option, but perhaps there is some other info I have not come across previously. In any case, I am "stuck" with the Wössners in my project, but it is always good to know the latest information! Looking forward to following this project more! If I were you, I would check with Wossner and ensure you are covered in the event of any issues. I'm finding it very hard to find anyone in the UK who claims to be capable or even wants to work on Alusil cylinders, one of the most recommended shops told me they have stopped offering machine services now and instead just supply engine components. Looking like I may only have two options, 1. Have the block nikasil plated which would mean totally stripping it and removing all ferrous metal. 2. Have the block sleeved, probably with dry liners from westwood. I know there are also options for wet liners but come with their own challenges. Picked up a book for some bedtime reading "The 4-cylinder engine short block high-performance manual" by Des Hammill :burnout: |
Don't you hate it when real life gets in the way of playing with your toy in the garage!
Not much further progress but I've been tidying up, ordering some parts and looking at options for the block. I examined the spark plugs, which looked OK to my eyes, couldn't see any difference between them. They aren't that old and have probably only done a few hundred miles at most. Will be replacing them of course with new ones though as they don't cost much! http://i.imgur.com/PNl73jhl.jpg In a tip from other mentions on rennlist, I picked up a set of Isky valve springs which came with another set as part of the deal! http://i.imgur.com/MSlW1Vll.jpg Also managed to stretch the PCGB 10% discount for Heritage Parts by ordering my gasket sets on Black Friday / Cyber Monday, which was a bloody good deal indeed. I then realised how much you actually get in the gasket sets, so I now have some extra exhaust sealing rings which I'd already ordered from Porsche (yes the extortionately expensive ones). http://i.imgur.com/oNe7W1cl.jpg I also carried on with the disassembly of the bottom end. http://i.imgur.com/A8J0v07l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/GIpzrR0l.jpg Removed the pilot bearing from the crankshaft, found a trick on rennlist, using an M8 bolt and nut. Position the nut on the bolt and insert nut first into the pilot bearing. Then wedge the nut against the inside edge of the pilot bearing using a screwdriver (or preferably an allen key as this will keep it out of the way of the socket). Then use a socket wrench and keep tightening the bolt, this should start to pull the bearing out of the crank. http://i.imgur.com/Acyebtnl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/AHThhUyl.jpg Rod bearings looked pretty bad in places, I haven't removed them from the rods yet, but will post a full picture of all the rod bearings when I've done this. This is rod #4 - bottom looks fine but the top bearing has worn pretty bad and has pitting. I'd say this was the worst out of all of them but as I said, I will post a picture showing them all side-by-side. http://i.imgur.com/DyL4f2il.jpg http://i.imgur.com/5J3gxBCl.jpg |
Next the crankshaft was removed, I couldn't see any major damage apart from what looks like significant wear on the thrust bearing journal.
http://i.imgur.com/ZtABZp6l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Rc2NZIwl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/SdavzAFl.jpg Shelves were starting to fill up with engine parts! I've had a tidy up since this was taken as was sorting through the parts which are going to be vapour blasted and what is going to the metal plating shop. http://i.imgur.com/ursJZrKl.jpg Just an interesting picture showing the original bearing manufacturing date which tallies with all the other date codes on the engine block and other parts in the car. http://i.imgur.com/bXOt37Ul.jpg Disassembling the oil pump and sump, there was a lot of thick oil gunge in the sump. When I drained the oil it was cold so this could possibly have contributed to this, I also had that weird coffee (or chocolate milkshake) colour oil on the last oil change after the car had been sitting for a few years. http://i.imgur.com/pVFzfDhl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/plpppQMl.jpg Main bearings cleaned up and sorted, some close-ups of the thrust bearing wear (which on research through rennlist appears to be normal for a high mileage turbo). http://i.imgur.com/gx4n5D2l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/SxwiUGPl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/WeE9RrLl.jpg Balance shaft bearings, I was in two minds about replacing these, but I suppose I should do so to prevent having to go back in (they aren't cheap). http://i.imgur.com/Sxp7DRfl.jpg I spent several evenings cataloging all the nuts and bolts so I could sort them properly when they come back from electroplating. I'm only having the external nuts and bolts plated and only the 8.8 strength bolts, 10.9 and 12.9 will either be replaced or reused as is. http://i.imgur.com/DveAH5Ol.jpg Found some sneaky little critter was trying to setup home inside the 944, but appears to have made an early departure (lucky for them). Luckily they hadn't damaged my brand new insulation foam! http://i.imgur.com/NGgW8Kil.jpg Lastly, I had entrusted the car to a local "classic car restoration specialist" to have the rust on the rear valance repaired. Unfortunately they did a cracking job, got overspray all over my freshly restored rear suspension (after I'd specifically asked them to mask and cover it) and did an awesome job with the paint which is peeling. So another job for me to sort out when the weather gets a bit better. That last mess really stressed me out and set me back a bit. I've learnt another valuable lesson, trust no one unless you or a friend / acquaintance has first-hand experience. http://i.imgur.com/zbMb76xl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/VWtTEFzl.jpg They offered to put it right, but would you trust them with your pride and joy after that? I'm currently considering options for the block which include (in my order of preference) - 1. Reboring to next repair size and retaining Alusil bores 2. Finding a replacement block with no scoring 3. Getting the block nikasil plated 4. Sleeving the block I've spoken to a number of people and everyone will have their own opinion, I'm not judging anyone elses decision on what they have done with their own car. Obviously 1 is quite tricky as there are less and less people who are able to do this, Serdi have closed the machine shop down and are only supplying parts now. So I'm still undecided and it might be a while before I can make a firm decision on how to proceed. Meanwhile I will get the rest of the parts cleaned and prepared ready for the rebuild. |
Hello, what is the use of that light and button?
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...e8d9a0784a.jpg |
Originally Posted by Porsche94483
(Post 19181783)
Hello, what is the use of that light and button?
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Been a while since my last update! what with Christmas, New Year and then getting ready to and going on holiday to Mayrhofen in Austria. I went a couple of days early and visited the Porsche, Mercedes and BMW museums. I had enough time to fit both Porsche and Mercedes in on the same afternoon, after driving from Luxembourg where I'd stayed the previous evening. Visited BMW museum the following morning before picking up my friend from the airport. Then some much needed leisure time snowboarding, and a memorable off-piste trip hiking to a local summit before descending through some lovely white stuff.
My favourite photos from the trip below, I will post some more car related pictures in a separate thread for those interested (will come back here and post a link). http://i.imgur.com/wDmvVwrl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/MAKKGeAl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/7U8Cl80l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/4jAPHO1l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/dXlMQ8pl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/wEjx4Ggl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Po5gyCTl.jpg Normal service will be resumed (very) shortly in the next post below |
So I resumed the engine rebuild pretty much as soon as I returned home.
First job was to split the rods and pistons and remove the rod bearings. Rod #1 (left) Rod #2 (right) http://i.imgur.com/dMC4SIFm.jpg http://i.imgur.com/UOE4au4m.jpg Rod 3# (left) Rod #4 (right) http://i.imgur.com/62okUWjm.jpg http://i.imgur.com/iBVLditm.jpg http://i.imgur.com/o1Dn05ql.jpg Then a lot of RP90, heat from my propane torch was used and a pair of stilsons to remove the old head studs. I was lucky none of them snapped, a few came out easy and the others were quite tight. At the same time I also removed the water pump studs using the double nut method and got them out without any snapping. http://i.imgur.com/UI7aWJ1l.jpg Finally the block was ready for the machine shop. http://i.imgur.com/wnVYH56l.jpg A very kind person donated some parts to me early in January and I got 2 spare 944 crankshafts, one is very good and the other has some surface rust on the journals. Original on far right, good spare in centre. http://i.imgur.com/xi7UZrwl.jpg On Monday I took the following parts over to Knight Engine Services near Daventry, spookily the owner has the same name as me...
Hopefully I will have some pictures of lovely new shiny bits to show you soon! |
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