JohnA944

Well problem is Silver is that I dont have $225 laying around. I just started a new job and I am tight on money. Autozone rents a slide hammer. All I have to do is pay an $80 deposit and get that back when I return the tool. so actually its a free rental after you reurn the tool.

Silverbullet951

oh,

well, that sounds like a better idea.

Good luck with it.

jason952

225 is a great deal, but I too was short on time and money. don't forget that bearing race kit (in the background of the pics) also

Luis de Prat

John,

Not sure about Autozone, but Pep Boys carries the triple square set that Jason is talking about. It costs around $15 and comes with 4 bits in 6, 8, 10 and 12mm sizes. I bought one recently to do my CVs.

The brand is "Lisle" and the reference number for the set is 60750 "12 Point, Triple Square Metric Internal Wrench Bit Set."

These are actually bits and you'll need a 1/2 inch deepsocket to use them with your ratchet of preference.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

SoCal Driver

The Paragon puller should have square or sholdered threads not the pointed ones.

I would use the compression puller as the slide hammer works against the suspension of the car. Can't use the slide hammer off the car with out one large vice.

jason952

I also meant to say that I did mine with the suspension on the car, It would be worse for me b/c I don't have a good vice/press. Also didn't need the subsequent alignment.

Jason

MHT

the bearing can be very noisy without being bad enough to allow any movement . Jack up the car and shake the tire from top and bottom, if you don't feel a fair bit of free movement, then drive the car home and take care of the bearing when you get the chance. When you do decide to tackle the bearing, try nor to apply pressure to the moving parts of the bearing itself. By this I mean, when you are pressing it into the control arm, apply pressure to the outer race of the bearing, not the inner race where the hub goes. When you press the hub into the bearing, support the inner race and press the hub against the inner race, do not simply try to drive the spindle into the bearing.

JohnA944

Thanks for the tips guys. I am going to leave the trailing arm in place.

MHT - I checked for play in the wheel and found none, but it makes a really load roaring sound when driving at cruising speed. It almost sounds like your in a truck with 44' Super Swampers! :0

jason952

so did you do it?

MY83944

Well, did you get it all done?
Mine went well and it made a huge difference. Mine also made that noise at speed, the outer bearing was shot.
Anyway, I needed no "special tools", but I have a pretty decent selection for years of fixin' stuff.
Replaced the half shafts at the same time - Thanks Pelican!
Oh, you don't really need to remove the caliper, just move it aside.
Remember which direction the spacers go -

jason952

you early 944 guys have it better, the 85.5+ cars have a large one piece bearing that needs the tools. nice work

MY83944

Ah, yet another reason to stick with the earlier year cars . . .