944S resurrection
10-02-2018, 12:18 AM
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944S resurrection
I haven't posted here before but in the process of building my car i lurked for a while reading and figured i'd list everything i did in case anybody needed help with anything.
I had a 944 that i ended up selling 2 years ago and regretted it. I bought a 944s in October of 2017 to replace it, but it turned out to be worse shape than i thought. In the process of restoring it, i did the following (if anybody has any questions about any tools i used or bought or where to buy them, send a note).
1) car was leaking fuel near the pump, replaced the pump, and the hose lines from tank to hardlines that go to the front of the car.
2) Replaced the fuel strainer in the bottom of the tank. In the process, i somehow stripped the small aluminum bushing that goes in the tank. Porsche melted this bushing onto the plastic fuel tank, once this is turned, you have to figure out a solution. for other people, if you are removing the fuel strainer at the bottom of the fuel tank, take a pair of channel locks, and hold the plastic down before the straight to counter the turning force. If you already made the same mistake, there are two solutions. You can either thread a piece of aluminum in and cut out threads so you can clamp a new strainer OR, you can use epoxy. No, not JB weld, i mean industrial air craft grade expoxy that can stand up to ethanol. A cheaper solution is 30 minute curing two part 3M expoy (cheaper). I used this and coated the aluminum sleeve and the insight of the tank, and it's been holding with zero leak for almost a year.
3) Replaced the transmission output flange seals.
4) Rebuilt the rear and front brake calipers.
5) Changed the rear and front rotors, and the rear shoes. Adjusted the ebrake cable. Replaced brake pads
6) installed KONI yellow struts in the rear
7) Replaced the hatch pin seats and re lubricated locking mechanism (you need locksmith lubricant to free up the old grease. spray some in the hatch (claws) and the key holes of the car, keep working with key. do this a few times, will be good as new.
8) replaced fuel level sender, the old one had the oring at the top completely turned into paste. My guess is the car sat for a long time and the gasket softened.
moved on to the front of the car. In the front, the car already had adjustable koni yellows and a thicker swaybar.
9) replaced both front control arms, with new bushings.
10) Replaced caster blocks with 968 style bushings.
11) Replaced sway bar bushings (power steering pump was leaking, bushing was swollen).
12) Replace alternator (old one had a seized bushing on the pulley).
13) Replaced the power steering pump with new copper rings for the banjo bolts. if you are in a bind and want to reuse the old ones, heat them up to a high temperature, then drop them in water, they will cure and can be repressed 1 time.
14) To solve all the leaks, i dropped the oil pan, and replaced the oil pan gasket. I used Hylomar as a sealant. Look it up, it stays fluid in oil so you can drain it out, but is an excellent sealant.
15) While the pan was off i replaced the road bearings. The previous owner had work done, the oil pan was not original, and the rod bearings were 1 size larger. Ended up replacing with porsche of the same size.
16) Replaced all the seals on the front of the car, oil cooler, lower and upper balanceshafts, crank shaft, and cam shaft, both the front and the rears. Finished off with new belts and water pump. Didn't use the arnworx tool, the belt tensioner on the 16v is spring operated as is so tight as is, i had to squeeze the belt on.
17) replaced the camshaft pads. The old ones were worn down. I ended up stripped 2 bolts, and had to use timeserts. use these instead of helicoils, they hold much better. I noticed the previous owner did the same on 2 of the valve cover screw holes.
18) Replace the Camshaft position sensor.
19) Both of the knock sensors fell apart in my hands due to age. I replaced with Bosche OEM, much cheaper. Also replaced the throttle position sensor, youtube video shows you how to test these.
20) Replaced the seals for the oil dipstick tube and air oil separator (in hindsight should have replaced air oil separator completely).
21) had the 4 injectors balanced, if one breaks you can get a generic one off amazon super cheap.
22) Put the valve cover back with the gasket, used Hylomar again up top.
23) powder coated in metallic silver the air intake, valve cover and cameshaft cover.
24) flushed oil radiator (previous owner used green antifreeze..wrong type.
25) Installed new bearing races and bearings in the front drive shafts.
26) Clutch was making a weird noise so worked on that next. Took apart the clutch, and torque tube. The torque tube was rebuilt by Olsen Engines in Nyack NY. If anybody in the NY area needs work, these guys have an insane amount of stuff laying around (aston martin, ferrari, and random porsche air/watercooled stuff.) I was referred there and they did a great job, excellent rates as well.
27) Trans shift bushings were shot, replaced the shift bushings, the shift seal (small seal near shift rod in transmission, there was a leak here). Also took the trans mount, taped it up, and poured urethane into the mold.
28) Replaced insulation near the shifter, the old one crumbled to dust upon removal.
29) flushed all brake lines and the clutch master/slave.
30) Replaced the hall reference sensor. Old one was seized. Bosch unit OEM replacement, super cheap from amazon
31) I put everything back together the battery was dead. For those of you who have had this happen, most batteries aren't actually completely dead. If you try to charge with a charger, it won't work because the charger can't get a base current. You have to hook the battery up to another battery, get a small charge, and then charge the battery.
I used 2 torque wrenches from amazon, a large one 1/2 inch and a 3/8 inch. This took me 3 months of doing one thing at a time and watching youtube videos by a user irina25661 (old german guy, only does 944's subtitles in english). I had a small amount of experience on the other 944, but never did anything to this scale. After i was done, i cranked the engine and zero problems. i took it on the highway it it drove better then almost any car i have ever driven. The solid transmission mount is a bit rough at idle (should have used slightly softer urethane). REv'd to redline, no problems or noise, so far top speed has been 100mph (tires can only take 120).
Last thing is the AC, has a new compressor (also amazon, denso unit), just not charged yet. For those of you that are curious, you can get R12 on ebay, fairly cheap (3 cans that are needed, maybe 2 and a half for around $125, yes it's way more than the new stuff, but in case you want to keep the original system it's an option).
I had a 944 that i ended up selling 2 years ago and regretted it. I bought a 944s in October of 2017 to replace it, but it turned out to be worse shape than i thought. In the process of restoring it, i did the following (if anybody has any questions about any tools i used or bought or where to buy them, send a note).
1) car was leaking fuel near the pump, replaced the pump, and the hose lines from tank to hardlines that go to the front of the car.
2) Replaced the fuel strainer in the bottom of the tank. In the process, i somehow stripped the small aluminum bushing that goes in the tank. Porsche melted this bushing onto the plastic fuel tank, once this is turned, you have to figure out a solution. for other people, if you are removing the fuel strainer at the bottom of the fuel tank, take a pair of channel locks, and hold the plastic down before the straight to counter the turning force. If you already made the same mistake, there are two solutions. You can either thread a piece of aluminum in and cut out threads so you can clamp a new strainer OR, you can use epoxy. No, not JB weld, i mean industrial air craft grade expoxy that can stand up to ethanol. A cheaper solution is 30 minute curing two part 3M expoy (cheaper). I used this and coated the aluminum sleeve and the insight of the tank, and it's been holding with zero leak for almost a year.
3) Replaced the transmission output flange seals.
4) Rebuilt the rear and front brake calipers.
5) Changed the rear and front rotors, and the rear shoes. Adjusted the ebrake cable. Replaced brake pads
6) installed KONI yellow struts in the rear
7) Replaced the hatch pin seats and re lubricated locking mechanism (you need locksmith lubricant to free up the old grease. spray some in the hatch (claws) and the key holes of the car, keep working with key. do this a few times, will be good as new.
8) replaced fuel level sender, the old one had the oring at the top completely turned into paste. My guess is the car sat for a long time and the gasket softened.
moved on to the front of the car. In the front, the car already had adjustable koni yellows and a thicker swaybar.
9) replaced both front control arms, with new bushings.
10) Replaced caster blocks with 968 style bushings.
11) Replaced sway bar bushings (power steering pump was leaking, bushing was swollen).
12) Replace alternator (old one had a seized bushing on the pulley).
13) Replaced the power steering pump with new copper rings for the banjo bolts. if you are in a bind and want to reuse the old ones, heat them up to a high temperature, then drop them in water, they will cure and can be repressed 1 time.
14) To solve all the leaks, i dropped the oil pan, and replaced the oil pan gasket. I used Hylomar as a sealant. Look it up, it stays fluid in oil so you can drain it out, but is an excellent sealant.
15) While the pan was off i replaced the road bearings. The previous owner had work done, the oil pan was not original, and the rod bearings were 1 size larger. Ended up replacing with porsche of the same size.
16) Replaced all the seals on the front of the car, oil cooler, lower and upper balanceshafts, crank shaft, and cam shaft, both the front and the rears. Finished off with new belts and water pump. Didn't use the arnworx tool, the belt tensioner on the 16v is spring operated as is so tight as is, i had to squeeze the belt on.
17) replaced the camshaft pads. The old ones were worn down. I ended up stripped 2 bolts, and had to use timeserts. use these instead of helicoils, they hold much better. I noticed the previous owner did the same on 2 of the valve cover screw holes.
18) Replace the Camshaft position sensor.
19) Both of the knock sensors fell apart in my hands due to age. I replaced with Bosche OEM, much cheaper. Also replaced the throttle position sensor, youtube video shows you how to test these.
20) Replaced the seals for the oil dipstick tube and air oil separator (in hindsight should have replaced air oil separator completely).
21) had the 4 injectors balanced, if one breaks you can get a generic one off amazon super cheap.
22) Put the valve cover back with the gasket, used Hylomar again up top.
23) powder coated in metallic silver the air intake, valve cover and cameshaft cover.
24) flushed oil radiator (previous owner used green antifreeze..wrong type.
25) Installed new bearing races and bearings in the front drive shafts.
26) Clutch was making a weird noise so worked on that next. Took apart the clutch, and torque tube. The torque tube was rebuilt by Olsen Engines in Nyack NY. If anybody in the NY area needs work, these guys have an insane amount of stuff laying around (aston martin, ferrari, and random porsche air/watercooled stuff.) I was referred there and they did a great job, excellent rates as well.
27) Trans shift bushings were shot, replaced the shift bushings, the shift seal (small seal near shift rod in transmission, there was a leak here). Also took the trans mount, taped it up, and poured urethane into the mold.
28) Replaced insulation near the shifter, the old one crumbled to dust upon removal.
29) flushed all brake lines and the clutch master/slave.
30) Replaced the hall reference sensor. Old one was seized. Bosch unit OEM replacement, super cheap from amazon
31) I put everything back together the battery was dead. For those of you who have had this happen, most batteries aren't actually completely dead. If you try to charge with a charger, it won't work because the charger can't get a base current. You have to hook the battery up to another battery, get a small charge, and then charge the battery.
I used 2 torque wrenches from amazon, a large one 1/2 inch and a 3/8 inch. This took me 3 months of doing one thing at a time and watching youtube videos by a user irina25661 (old german guy, only does 944's subtitles in english). I had a small amount of experience on the other 944, but never did anything to this scale. After i was done, i cranked the engine and zero problems. i took it on the highway it it drove better then almost any car i have ever driven. The solid transmission mount is a bit rough at idle (should have used slightly softer urethane). REv'd to redline, no problems or noise, so far top speed has been 100mph (tires can only take 120).
Last thing is the AC, has a new compressor (also amazon, denso unit), just not charged yet. For those of you that are curious, you can get R12 on ebay, fairly cheap (3 cans that are needed, maybe 2 and a half for around $125, yes it's way more than the new stuff, but in case you want to keep the original system it's an option).
Last edited by azerite; 03-01-2019 at 07:56 PM. Reason: oil leak fixed
10-02-2018, 01:17 AM
#2
Burning Brakes
You sir, are a hero. Thank you for saving another one.
I don't know your experience or background, but either way that's a lot of technical work.
Now get out and drive it like you should!
And we need pictures, lots of pictures!
I don't know your experience or background, but either way that's a lot of technical work.
Now get out and drive it like you should!
And we need pictures, lots of pictures!
10-02-2018, 11:07 PM
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For 9, you have a couple of options. 1) get new ones from porsche= insane amount of money. 2) i got them from Zim's https://www.allzim.com/store/924-944...e/control-arm/, they come with new bushings all around. The process is they take a core, rebuild it, and then sell you a rebuilt one in exchange for a core. They sold the caster blocks (bushings) i got as well. I know that the control arm has the pivot at the end built into the control arm, they drill it out, replace it, and reweld in (at least thats what it looks like). So far, no problems and the handling is very very good on the car.
To replace them was pretty easy. Most people are afraid to lose the alignment, but all i had to do was use a sharpie and draw a few lines on the body and the piece that got removed, like you're drawing a straight line. Then transfer the lines with the sharpie from the old control arm to the new, and then line up the lines on the body to the control arm and re-install.
10-03-2018, 11:21 PM
#5
For 21- you can send the injectors here https://witchhunter.com/, they will balance and clean them. $22 per injector. I got this GB remanufactured fuel injector 85212113, used in the NA 944 and it works. One of the ones that came back from witchhunter was out of spec (they test them also). Key was to go get the part number from porsche, do a google search, and then find the generic version. Those cost all of $40-60 new.
For 9, you have a couple of options. 1) get new ones from porsche= insane amount of money. 2) i got them from Zim's https://www.allzim.com/store/924-944...e/control-arm/, they come with new bushings all around. The process is they take a core, rebuild it, and then sell you a rebuilt one in exchange for a core. They sold the caster blocks (bushings) i got as well. I know that the control arm has the pivot at the end built into the control arm, they drill it out, replace it, and reweld in (at least thats what it looks like). So far, no problems and the handling is very very good on the car.
To replace them was pretty easy. Most people are afraid to lose the alignment, but all i had to do was use a sharpie and draw a few lines on the body and the piece that got removed, like you're drawing a straight line. Then transfer the lines with the sharpie from the old control arm to the new, and then line up the lines on the body to the control arm and re-install.
For 9, you have a couple of options. 1) get new ones from porsche= insane amount of money. 2) i got them from Zim's https://www.allzim.com/store/924-944...e/control-arm/, they come with new bushings all around. The process is they take a core, rebuild it, and then sell you a rebuilt one in exchange for a core. They sold the caster blocks (bushings) i got as well. I know that the control arm has the pivot at the end built into the control arm, they drill it out, replace it, and reweld in (at least thats what it looks like). So far, no problems and the handling is very very good on the car.
To replace them was pretty easy. Most people are afraid to lose the alignment, but all i had to do was use a sharpie and draw a few lines on the body and the piece that got removed, like you're drawing a straight line. Then transfer the lines with the sharpie from the old control arm to the new, and then line up the lines on the body to the control arm and re-install.
As for the bushings, my car tends to wonder when the road isn’t perfectly flat so I’m thinking this might help. Though I’m not sure if spending upwards of $800 (cdn) is the way to go (I only put about 1000kms per year).
10-04-2018, 09:16 AM
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Thanks for the detailed info. When I was looking for an injector, one of mine was leaking, I couldn’t for the life of me find something that fit the S engine. I cross checked all models from the 80s, even Chrysler’s used Bosch injectors. Now if the other three ever leak I’ll have another option.
As for the bushings, my car tends to wonder when the road isn’t perfectly flat so I’m thinking this might help. Though I’m not sure if spending upwards of $800 (cdn) is the way to go (I only put about 1000kms per year).
10-08-2018, 09:35 AM
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Fuel tank strainer
i spoke too soon. The fuel tank strainer started leaking. I turned the busing when I removed it last time unfortunately. Going to either us in weld or the bushing someone on rennlist sells.
in case anybody needs dimensions here are mine
outter diameter 40mm
thickness of the ring 5mm
thread pitch 1.5
on the strainer the thickness is 36mm
in case anybody needs dimensions here are mine
outter diameter 40mm
thickness of the ring 5mm
thread pitch 1.5
on the strainer the thickness is 36mm
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02-19-2019, 03:57 PM
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update: I pulled the head and replaced the head gasket. I did this because (it sounds stupid yes) the car was pushing out a lot of white smoke on start up and i thought there was either water or oil mixing in. When i pulled everything apart the gasket looked fine (though surfaces were spotted with rust). I used some emory cloth to buff them out, and put everything back together. It turned out that my cat had rotted away and was shaking inside the housing. Also, the white smoke was condensation. Felt like an idiot, but i replaced the spark plug wires, ignition module, Idle Control Valve, master cylinder, slave cylinder and clutch hoses in the process.
Also replaced the crankshaft seal that as leaking from before. Sure enough, i didn't drive it in deep enough.
replaced all of the coolant hoses and the tank itself. The hoses were completely shot when i took them off this second time. When i put it back together i realized i had a radiator leak (the plastic on the sides) installed a new radiator.
Also replaced the crankshaft seal that as leaking from before. Sure enough, i didn't drive it in deep enough.
replaced all of the coolant hoses and the tank itself. The hoses were completely shot when i took them off this second time. When i put it back together i realized i had a radiator leak (the plastic on the sides) installed a new radiator.
Last edited by azerite; 02-19-2019 at 04:14 PM.
03-01-2019, 09:39 AM
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Miles
i got the car with 98k miles. Most of the work was a while you’re in there job. I don’t plan on selling the car and wanted to drive it regularly. I figured to do that it needs to be in shape so something doesn’t break all the time.
03-01-2019, 11:16 AM
#11
Three Wheelin'
Incredible dedication.
Thanks for your detailed and thorough process of relating your cures. Your car deserves to have someone such as yourself as caretaker.
Amazing really. Most folks would have never gone this distance....
I expect as time continues it's march forward, only cars with folks such as yourself and those cars within the realm of very limited use will be the survivors we see. Great, well cared for Porsches such as the 924, 944 variants, 951, and 968 are getting fewer and fewer to be found. Many with less needs have been given up as donors to track cars or parts donors.
Which is a shame really, because they are such great sports cars and deserve the treatment you have unselfishly given it.
We all give you a hearty round of applause
Thanks for your detailed and thorough process of relating your cures. Your car deserves to have someone such as yourself as caretaker.
Amazing really. Most folks would have never gone this distance....
I expect as time continues it's march forward, only cars with folks such as yourself and those cars within the realm of very limited use will be the survivors we see. Great, well cared for Porsches such as the 924, 944 variants, 951, and 968 are getting fewer and fewer to be found. Many with less needs have been given up as donors to track cars or parts donors.
Which is a shame really, because they are such great sports cars and deserve the treatment you have unselfishly given it.
We all give you a hearty round of applause
03-01-2019, 11:42 AM
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you said it. These cars are great, still have good power today, and very connected all together. The more i worked on it, the more i realized how easy it was compared to modern cars (yes torque tubes, trans etc is a pain in the butt, but everything else is easy)
03-01-2019, 11:46 AM
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Another update i forgot, the soft brake line going from the clutch master to the slave swelled up. I replaced it, and tried to bleed the line, but it was getting air. I thought it might be the master or slave clutch cylinders so i replaced them. Putting the new ones in i tried several methods and couldn't bleed the system to the point where the clutch pedal would pop back up. I have a motive bleeder, that didn't work, i tried to press fluid from the slave upwards with a mityvac pump and oil can, that didn't work, i tried a manual bleed with the pedal, that didn't work. I thought i had a defective new unit and ordered a new set and then stumbled on a thread from this forum from a user who goes by T, 951and944s is his handle. I pulled what he wrote below. I couldn't believe it, i did the below and the pedal is very stiff now, feels great.
"So other than the brake master and brake booster, the only work you did related to the clutch system was removing the clutch master fluid supply hose from the brake fluid reservoir...?
Get under the car on the driver's side behind the front wheel with a large flat screwdriver or small prybar. Looking around the lower portion of the bell housing on driver's side, find a hole in the bell housing where you see the clutch slave extension rod where it enters the divot of the clutch fork.
Insert the flat blade of your tool behind the fork into the rear of the hole in the bell housing. Using the aluminum to lever your tool, push the fork forward. This will push the extension rod of the slave and force the piston inside the slave forward, pushing all fluid and air all the way through the clutch master into the brake fluid reservoir. Sweep this motion several times, keeping a little pressure on your lever tool to limit the speed that the slave piston returns each time after you have pushed forward as far as you can.
Make sure reservoir is as full as you can get it.
Now open driver's door. Kneeling outside the car where your right hand can reach clutch pedal. Put your palm on pedal and grip the pedal with your four fingers for pulling it back up. Push pedal to floor and raise it back only an inch or two over and over in a pumping motion. After 10 pumps or so, raise the pedal all the way to the top on the 11th pump and repeat the 2 inch travel 10 pumps again, going all the way to the top for one pump after 10 short pumps.
Now pump full strokes 5-10 times.
Check your fluid.
Sit in seat and access pedal feel.
"
"So other than the brake master and brake booster, the only work you did related to the clutch system was removing the clutch master fluid supply hose from the brake fluid reservoir...?
Get under the car on the driver's side behind the front wheel with a large flat screwdriver or small prybar. Looking around the lower portion of the bell housing on driver's side, find a hole in the bell housing where you see the clutch slave extension rod where it enters the divot of the clutch fork.
Insert the flat blade of your tool behind the fork into the rear of the hole in the bell housing. Using the aluminum to lever your tool, push the fork forward. This will push the extension rod of the slave and force the piston inside the slave forward, pushing all fluid and air all the way through the clutch master into the brake fluid reservoir. Sweep this motion several times, keeping a little pressure on your lever tool to limit the speed that the slave piston returns each time after you have pushed forward as far as you can.
Make sure reservoir is as full as you can get it.
Now open driver's door. Kneeling outside the car where your right hand can reach clutch pedal. Put your palm on pedal and grip the pedal with your four fingers for pulling it back up. Push pedal to floor and raise it back only an inch or two over and over in a pumping motion. After 10 pumps or so, raise the pedal all the way to the top on the 11th pump and repeat the 2 inch travel 10 pumps again, going all the way to the top for one pump after 10 short pumps.
Now pump full strokes 5-10 times.
Check your fluid.
Sit in seat and access pedal feel.
"
05-31-2019, 12:39 AM
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the car was leaking oil, so i jacked it up only to find that 6 of the oil pan bolts are missing. Mostly from the center. They must have backed out. I used the right sequence to torque them down and had a torque wrench when i did the tightening, not sure why it didn't hold. Anybody ever use thread sealant or go to a slightly higher torque?