Aftermarket A-arm failure
08-23-2018, 09:58 PM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Aftermarket A-arm failure
Recently saw one fail in two places. Don't remember the company. It is welded tubular chromoly and no longer made. The flaws, if present, are not apparent in visual inspection. If you have such an arm I would recommend sourcing replacements from another supplier.
A-arms, as well as all suspension and steering components, should be chosen carefully (other components can break as well - I've seen OE tie rods break). Stock A-arms often fail on cars that have been lowered. If you choose aftermarket ones research them to make sure they are satisfactory for your application and meet adequate strength and construction criteria.
All this is to say that important components such as suspension and steering pieces should be carefully chosen (by a qualified technician) and regularly inspected.
A-arms, as well as all suspension and steering components, should be chosen carefully (other components can break as well - I've seen OE tie rods break). Stock A-arms often fail on cars that have been lowered. If you choose aftermarket ones research them to make sure they are satisfactory for your application and meet adequate strength and construction criteria.
All this is to say that important components such as suspension and steering pieces should be carefully chosen (by a qualified technician) and regularly inspected.
Last edited by FrenchToast; 08-25-2018 at 01:12 AM.
08-23-2018, 11:31 PM
#3
Race Car
Wise words through and through.
Recently heard a report of a tubular one breaking at a race in the NE, maybe the same incident (?).
With anything other than a 1 piece design, cast or billet, you are opening up a whole new avenue of potential failure, tube cracks, weld penetration quality, joint/fit fatigue, etc.
In all the incidents we have been victim of, never have we ever had a factory a-arm crack/break in any form or fashion outside the ball joint pin....and those have been at least 6-8 occasions.
17mm, 19mm, stock length, extended length, doesn't matter.
Billet arm, lock ringed spherical with replaceable pin that can easily be changed on duty/time schedule is the way to go.
Was heavily pursuing with a couple other RL'ers but my attention is on build items with more precedence at the moment...., much like 1 of the other parties.
This is something that the whole community should get behind to be honest.
The prices for quality parts from "racer" outlets are just not realistic.
We could probably get cnc'ed sets for $800 with enough people participating.
T
Recently heard a report of a tubular one breaking at a race in the NE, maybe the same incident (?).
With anything other than a 1 piece design, cast or billet, you are opening up a whole new avenue of potential failure, tube cracks, weld penetration quality, joint/fit fatigue, etc.
In all the incidents we have been victim of, never have we ever had a factory a-arm crack/break in any form or fashion outside the ball joint pin....and those have been at least 6-8 occasions.
17mm, 19mm, stock length, extended length, doesn't matter.
Billet arm, lock ringed spherical with replaceable pin that can easily be changed on duty/time schedule is the way to go.
Was heavily pursuing with a couple other RL'ers but my attention is on build items with more precedence at the moment...., much like 1 of the other parties.
This is something that the whole community should get behind to be honest.
The prices for quality parts from "racer" outlets are just not realistic.
We could probably get cnc'ed sets for $800 with enough people participating.
T
08-23-2018, 11:48 PM
#4
Nordschleife Master
08-23-2018, 11:54 PM
#5
Race Car
Hard to tell from that pic but I made an offer on a similar or exact billet set I saw on ebay a couple months ago but seller rejected.
In the description, said "manufactured by Coleman Racing", (out of Michigan) I searched them and bookmarked but never contacted them for the possibility of additional sets.
http://www.colemanracing.com/Chassis...0ASC&c=14&p=20
T
In the description, said "manufactured by Coleman Racing", (out of Michigan) I searched them and bookmarked but never contacted them for the possibility of additional sets.
http://www.colemanracing.com/Chassis...0ASC&c=14&p=20
T
08-24-2018, 12:40 PM
#6
08-24-2018, 03:43 PM
#7
Race Car
T
Trending Topics
08-24-2018, 05:00 PM
#8
Nordschleife Master
08-24-2018, 08:32 PM
#9
Race Car
For the sake of whether you might be personally interested, I am PM'ing you the link and won't post here until later.
Head's up - I "made an offer" of $700 because at anything more than that, I can have my own cnd'd later.
Seller refused offer. "Buy it now" is $995 which isn't bad considering that the RE version linked above is $1650.
If we were to group up and could get with this company (not the seller) and get these even for $800, I'm in for at least 2 sets.
If you were to take this as mediator, it'd just be something else off my plate as far as I'm concerned.
Think about it a second, two sets for $1600, 2 sets still cheaper than the $1650 from the (as another RL'er put it) A-arm cartel.
If nothing pans out, between me, Max Energy and another RL that I won't name at this time, we're going to make billet sets eventually for as close to 1/2 the normally paid price as possible.
T (PM incoming)
08-24-2018, 09:40 PM
#10
Rennlist Member
That set is being sold on ebay right now with the info I posted in the description of the auction.
For the sake of whether you might be personally interested, I am PM'ing you the link and won't post here until later.
Head's up - I "made an offer" of $700 because at anything more than that, I can have my own cnd'd later.
Seller refused offer. "Buy it now" is $995 which isn't bad considering that the RE version linked above is $1650.
If we were to group up and could get with this company (not the seller) and get these even for $800, I'm in for at least 2 sets.
If you were to take this as mediator, it'd just be something else off my plate as far as I'm concerned.
Think about it a second, two sets for $1600, 2 sets still cheaper than the $1650 from the (as another RL'er put it) A-arm cartel.
If nothing pans out, between me, Max Energy and another RL that I won't name at this time, we're going to make billet sets eventually for as close to 1/2 the normally paid price as possible.
T (PM incoming)
For the sake of whether you might be personally interested, I am PM'ing you the link and won't post here until later.
Head's up - I "made an offer" of $700 because at anything more than that, I can have my own cnd'd later.
Seller refused offer. "Buy it now" is $995 which isn't bad considering that the RE version linked above is $1650.
If we were to group up and could get with this company (not the seller) and get these even for $800, I'm in for at least 2 sets.
If you were to take this as mediator, it'd just be something else off my plate as far as I'm concerned.
Think about it a second, two sets for $1600, 2 sets still cheaper than the $1650 from the (as another RL'er put it) A-arm cartel.
If nothing pans out, between me, Max Energy and another RL that I won't name at this time, we're going to make billet sets eventually for as close to 1/2 the normally paid price as possible.
T (PM incoming)
08-24-2018, 09:46 PM
#11
Race Car
08-25-2018, 12:11 AM
#13
Rennlist Member
I have run wire graphs simulations and then built the real item and have it fail prior to modeled prediction. Which is one reason the most modeling programs I dealt with ended up with 75% safety factors.
08-25-2018, 12:45 AM
#14
Race Car
You ever see one that had damage that wasn't related to either a) a crash or previously unnoticed crash damage, b) ball joint pin failure or pocket wear due to lack of maintenance..?
Been DE and racing for 8-10 years, working on 944s for 20+ years, never had a stock cast arm fail.
A 3d scan of the factory part, replicated in quality billet alloy is an improvement over the cast piece, no track testing necessary to prove that out.
T