jej3

Wiring an alarm for keyless entry and trying like heck to sort out a couple final issues.

1. How EXACTLY have folks wired in a relay to support popping the rear hatch? Assume I have a 5 post relay (85, 86, 87, 87a, 30), how is this triggered? I have read so much and the information is still just a bit vague.
2. Flashing the lights, I've read to use the gray/red and gray/black wires for each side but I only get flash at the front of the car and only on one side due to corroded light socket but possibly don't have tails due to having the dash out for refinish??????

Consider me a DUMMY and be as explicit as possible. Trying to move past this as my son and I have many more things to do before the engine turns in December.

Thanks for any advice (and pictures)!

marc abrams

Being no one else chimed in here I think this is how it would go

You will need two Bosch relays to do this. One at least with normally closed contacts. The relays get triggered by the alarm instructions.

The easiest way to do this without any more relays is like this.

You will lose the separate right and left parking light feature but your in Florida, not Europe.
Now answer me this, is there any good bagel stores in Jacksonville? I swear I'm going to drive back up to New York to get some if I can't find any here.

jej3

Thank you, Marc. I went a slightly different route on the hatch and will be exploring my options on the flashing lights, soon. (Honestly, I'd be good if I could just flash the side markers)

There is good information here.... http://www.944time.com/porsche/944-keyless-entry.php

Here's a picture of the switch from that site -



The way the hatch switch works is:

Red is +12V
White is Ground
Blue Triggers the motor and rests at ground (connected to white)

So, I used a Bosch Relay like the below diagram:



85 --> 86 is a coil that energizes when triggered by the alarm hatch release. My alarm (I think most) have a negative trigger. This means you need to hook your Negative Trigger to 85 (or 86) and a +12V feed to 86 (or 85).

30 should be connected to the blue wire as we will be switching from the white wire to the red wire
87a should be connected to the white wire so we are resting at ground
87 should be connected to the red wire so this connection is made when the coil is energized (85--->86)

In this scenario, I lose the use of the switch but it doesn't matter to me. I thought about rewiring the switch to be a secondary negative trigger to the relay (and still might) but I've solved the hatch release dilemma. You can unsolder the wires from your existing switch and connect them to the relay so all can be reversed if needed in the future with no wire cutting and the possible installation of a replacement hatch switch.

marc abrams

No problem. I didn't want you to lose the original hatch button.
Tip, connect 87 and 86 together so the relay coil always has fused power. 86 is preferred for power and 85 is preferred for ground because sometimes theres a diode across the coil.

jej3

I kept the use of the switch by cutting the wires to the switch and rewiring as follows....

(White Wire) Ground to Red Switch Wire
Blue to Relay Trigger Wire

If someone wants to revert to stock, they simply need to unplug the relay which is using the switch harness and replace the switch.

Spent a lot of time cleaning up wiring for the alarm (just hate when it looks like it was slapped in there) and since I have the dash out, now is the time to do so.

Will conquer the lights tonight. I plan on using the below relay configuration and tapping into the Grey/Black and Grey/Red wires from the headlight switch....



More later so the next person has an easier time

marc abrams

I came up with a way to do the hatch with one relay and still retain the button. Just cut the button harness in the middle. Use the connector side for the relay. Then extend the wires from the button to reach 87A and to body ground.


I also came up with a easier way to do the parking lights without relays and allow you to retain the separate right and left parking light feature.
​​​​​​ You'll need two 3 amp diodes. Note: the green/black and green/red wires are gray/black and gray/red.

Hey you never told me where to get good bagels. I tried "Bagels R Us" yesterday. Not impressed. Dam supermarkets don't know what Italian bread is either.

jej3

Thanks, Marc. Your example for the parking lights looks great. I wired everything up before seeing it last night. All is working

On the bagels, I honestly am probably not the best one to ask. I think Village Bread Cafe, a few locations around JAX has their own bread factory.

http://www.villagebreadcafe.com

Thanks again!