Hi all

Quick Q's:
The outer race has a single line at one end and a triple line at the other - does this need to face any particular direction? Obviously the inner race must only go onto the axle in one direction but the outer is symmetrical? i.e my races have been running not quite in the outer race center, so I can turn it around to get fresh faces for the *****?
My boots are fine but there is a lot of thick "coppercote" type material layered on the ends of the joints with visible copper flakes. Is this some type of joint sealant? I thought it was wear flakes but it's not. It's definitely some type of copper product that has been applied in the past.

Ta all.

 

 

Nice summary thomasmryan.

Was the copper you're seeing from a High Temp Anti Seize the PO used to help slip the CV boots off? That's more of a paste than flakes but can be copper in color.

I have my CV's off at the moment for access to other projects. When reinstalling how much grease should be packed into the rubber boots? They were surprisingly low on grease when i took them off and I just rebuilt them a few thousand miles ago.
I'm planning to pack the assembled joints with grease best I can before slipping the boots back on and installing the axles. I thought I could add additional grease to the boot with a large syringe but curious to know what others have done. I don't want to over-pack them only to have it seep out and make a mess of things but also want the joint to last. Thanks.

 

The left CVs are close to the exhaust and get hot, the air inside expands and forces the softened grease out any weak areas. My mechanic, right or wrong, installed little tubes off wd40 cans under the inner boot clamps, effectively 'venting' the boot to outside air along the driveshaft. I'd expect the grease to be flung outward with the rotation so if there was a spot where it was just air the center would be it. Of course there might be a possibility of contamination as it cools, contracts and draws in ???, but my wrench at the time recommended the mod. HTH.

 

Regarding the copper anti seize - It's everywhere, caked on the drive flanges especially. Far more than would be on the splines. Copper flakes everywhere. Is this a way to quiet cv's or make them last longer as a sacrificial layer or something?

 

check the manual but I believe it is 60 or 80 grams of cv lube. with the proper amount of grease, the bellows should handle the expansion and contraction. most 'kits' include a packet with the correct amount.

I have no idea why copper never seize was used. it could be a differential filled with banana peels thing.

clean clean clean on the mating surfaces. install the flanges finger tight and then clean each hole with solvent doused q-tips until they come out white. don't spray it into the hole or it will foul the lube. if the flanges don't have enough clamping force, the torque gets transferred to the fasteners and it will loosen up.

you should have at least a turn and a half of thread protruding on the back of the flange.

 

Will check the manual and the leftover packets of grease, I used a tube of Swepco.
Not sure about the WD40 tubes but interesting. Good reminder to clean well.

Regarding any copper anti seize, I was only suggesting a PO may have used a small amount on the axles to help slide the CV boots off the joint, not that the boot was filled with it.
If you have copper flakes everywhere it's sounds like something else.

 

 

I always use more grease than what's supplied, after doing some research. You don't want to pack the boot completely full obviously or it will swell when it gets hot. After fully packing each joint, I add a good amount to the boot. Over time the grease will move out of the joint and you want a reservoir built up so the joint always has grease. I prefer the Redline CV2 grease over the silver stuff that usually is supplied in packets, it's much thicker and is fully synthetic, designed specifically for CVs.

 

I do about the same.

Scott.

 

When I rebuilt these axles I packed them well and put some amount of grease in the boot. Was surprised to see the boots mostly empty after only a few thousand miles.
Part of this project was some cleaning and resealing of the transmission, urethane mount mod and new fuel lines/filter/check valve. The case was pretty caked with rubber, road grim and fluid but couldn't really tell if there were any real leaks or seeping occurring, just dirty. Hopefully I get everything buttoned back up and it stays clean and sealed. If not at least I'll be able to see what's going on.

So tempted to finally go full coilovers, i'm right there....but then it's new clutch, new pan gasket, new rear main seal...agh, it never ends.
I need a garage like yours Otto. With some room, and a lift!

 

I'm embarrassed. Really.

You'll have the shop you want. Rest assured. It will take time but it will happen. If you're dedicated there won't be a problem. Really. Not worth worrying about.

Everything you want can be yours. You just need to maintain focus and continue to work hard. No other problems. Good luck, good focus?

If I may be so bold, ignore the Progressive contingent. They don't hold your best interests. It's much better to shun them. They're idealists and even though they tell a good story, they've never been able to deliver. Good people with a bad plan.

Best Regards,
Scott.