993944S2

Application is a full race car.. 1986. Started with the car losing power after 30 minutes on the track. With a full, fresh battery charge, runs great. Slowly loses power after 25-30 minutes. After a full charge reading about 12.1V at the battery with car running. Battery is good. Took alternator in for testing and rebuild. Tested ok, rebuilt anyways. Installed.... same problem. Ran jumper wire from where the blue exciter wire attaches at the alternator to the + at battery. 14.2V at battery. With the jump, exciter is doing it's job and subsequently so is the alternator.

Volt light on dash does not light with key turned. Pin 1, engine side of 14pin connector shows 0V. Socket 1, car side of 14 pin connector shows 12V

I could diagnose, but all wiring looks good. Really good. Where does the blue wire terminate? If I don't want to pull everything apart, can I run jumper wire from terminal on back of alternator to a switched 12V source? Any down side to that? For late model, does the bulb complete the circuit? Is it required? Coincidentally, tach and speedo also do not work in factory pod.

Thanks in advance for any comments, help etc..

Don

edalenta

Charging Circuit Wiring: Battery > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Circuit 15 (switched 12 VDC) > Fuse Box > Instrument Cluster > Charge Light Bulb > 2-Pin Connector over the brake booster > Alternator Field Connection

The charge light bulb is an incandescent bulb which varies resistance with voltage, and is an integral part of the charging circuit.

Note that the charge light bulb must be incandescent and should never be replaced with an LED style bulb.