When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Nearly a month since my last update, I've kept busy. Water pump and thermostats are installed. Timing belt + balance belt are installed and tensioned with ArnnWorx tool. New silicone coolant hoses (blue) installed and looking great in my opinion.
New spark plugs, ignition rotor and cap are installed. I've got a new set of NGK wires on order. Drained about 10 gallons of old gas out of the tank and I replaced the fuel filter. I have a used set of Lindsey Racing braided SS gas lines to go to the fuel rail but I'm waiting for delivery on the weird metric hardware that connects them to the hard lines. The new hardware plus used lines cost almost as much as a new set so in retrospect I should have just bought new, but c'est la vie.
It turns out one of the PO's did the venturi delete - I'm glad I discovered that before ordering a new kit. Only required minimal adjustment to fix the vacuum system (there were a few disconnected tubes) so I'm glad that's done. I reinstalled the intake manifold and fuel rail this weekend, and put everything else back in place (starter, accessory belts, covers, air cleaner, etc.) Changed the transaxle oil with some Amsoil synthetic gear lube, and filled the engine with Valvoline VR1 20W50. I had to replace the power steering return line too but I'm pretty proud of that fix - I think it's worth starting a separate thread to show that one off.
Mixed up a batch of (pink?) antifreeze and refilled the system. I don't have a radiator pressure tester and didn't want to buy one, but also don't feel right borrowing a tool from a local parts store when I buy 99% of my parts online. I saw a champagne cork and inspiration struck. Drilled a hole through it and used my son's inflatable toy pump to pressurize the overflow tank with the bleeder cracked. It worked perfectly! Pretty good for $0.
So after owning the car over 4 months, it was finally time to install a battery and get ready for the first start. Cranked it for the first time on Saturday night with DME relay pulled and had no oil pressure on the gauge. I pulled the oil filter and directly added oil to the lines there (making the inevitable huge mess in the process) and then cranked for another 15 seconds or so before the gauge climbed right up. Sunday I put some gas in the tank with the DME relay reinstalled, started cranking again and she purred to life! First start in nearly a decade, I'm a very happy guy.
I let it run for about a minute then shut it down - good thing too because I next discovered that one of the injectors was leaking gasoline badly. It left a puddle of gas under the intake manifold, scary to imagine that beside my old brittle ignition wires (new NGK wires are on order). I thought it was just a bad seal but after cleaning and reinstalling the rail, and talking to some guys on the Facebook "Premier 944 Turbo Community" it looks like the body of the injector has a leak at one of the crimped seams and will need to be replaced. I've sourced a full set from someone so I'll probably be buying those shortly, but if anyone has just 1 or 2 they'd sell me that would probably make more sense financially and then I can send them all to WitchHunter or someone for cleaning / balancing.
Otherwise I'm pretty close to getting on the road. I still haven't touched the brakes or clutch so I'm planning to bleed out the old fluid at the very least. I'll be starting the insurance and licensing process as soon as I think there's a chance of driving it; I can't wait. Thanks to everyone on this forum - what a great resource.
Congratulations! That is a lot of work to get through especially when doing it for the first time. I was worried when things went silent for a while that you might be torn down for a long time. So great to see your car running. I have a few injectors hanging around that you can have for the price of shipping if your interested. Just shoot me an email and we can work out the details.
I noticed these aluminum rails along both sides of the oil pan that don't look stock. I don't see them in PET. Seems like they are adding extra clamping to the oil pan? Anyone know what they are or why they would be added?
Those are gasket retaining rails. I think they used to be available through Lindsey Racing and IIRC a user here named MySwiss. They are custom pieces and were never sold through Porsche. The objective is to keep the gasket in place and prevent it from moving (bulging) resulting in leaks. The fact that they are on there are a good indication that someone had the pan off at some point. If so, it's possible that the rod bearings were done. Either way, it's a good thing to see. Whoever had the car before was pretty serious about it to even know that the rails existed and to bother purchasing a set.
I have a big smile on my face after watching your beast start up! I need that "first start up smell" packaged so that I can spray it around the garage now and again.
Those are gasket retaining rails. I think they used to be available through Lindsey Racing and IIRC a user here named MySwiss. They are custom pieces and were never sold through Porsche. The objective is to keep the gasket in place and prevent it from moving (bulging) resulting in leaks. The fact that they are on there are a good indication that someone had the pan off at some point. If so, it's possible that the rod bearings were done. Either way, it's a good thing to see. Whoever had the car before was pretty serious about it to even know that the rails existed and to bother purchasing a set.
Really interesting, it does look like the engine has been pulled at least once (one of the strut towers looks like it was dented by a swinging engine) and the mounts look newer from what I can see of them. I really wish I had any kind of history on the car; I'm told the previous owner was into pretty high end cars and this was his project before he passed away (his previous project was an Jaguar XJS). I'd love to think the engine had new bearings or a rebuild but I guess I'll never know. Planning to do a compression test soon which should be interesting. And thank you for your generous offer on the injectors, I sent you an email earlier today to discuss.
Originally Posted by Biscuits704
Nice project!
Whereabouts in Ontario are you? I'd love to know where you sourced the hatch!
I have some injectors if you're still looking.
Thanks! I'm just north of Newmarket in Georgina. I'll send you a private message regarding the injectors. The hatch was something I budgeted $800-$1000 as worst case when I was originally considering the car (RockAuto had the glass for around $800 plus shipping). Just for fun I posted a "wanted" ad on Kijiji looking for a complete hatch for a Porsche 944. I had two options within the first day, before I'd even taken delivery of the car. I paid $350 (delivered) as the seller assured me it was in great shape, so I chose it over the other one for $250 which was looking weathered. In the end my original spoiler and trim was still in better shape overall so I swapped them, and should have just got the cheaper one. On that note I have a decent spare spoiler and trim pieces free to any local Rennlist member. I don't really want to ship them.
Originally Posted by Swenny
I have a big smile on my face after watching your beast start up! I need that "first start up smell" packaged so that I can spray it around the garage now and again.
I hope this doesn't go unnoticed. Definitely put new tires on there before you do any driving. Tires that old might as well be made of plastic. It won''t take much throttle or G to spin out and do a 360.
Also, congratulations on the find and the startup. So, 951 or baby? (Seriously.)
None of these 951s are slipping through the cracks anymore. They are so hard to find these days, so good job finding a preserved one. It's amazing how they'll start and run after so much time time time.
I hope this doesn't go unnoticed. Definitely put new tires on there before you do any driving. Tires that old might as well be made of plastic. It won''t take much throttle or G to spin out and do a 360.
Also, congratulations on the find and the startup. So, 951 or baby? (Seriously.)
None of these 951s are slipping through the cracks anymore. They are so hard to find these days, so good job finding a preserved one. It's amazing how they'll start and run after so much time time time.
I second the tire comment (based on unfortunate personal experience), and would also strongly suggest you go over the brakes and make sure they work as designed before driving it on the road... Great work waking up that car -- it certainly looks worthy of the effort.
I hope this doesn't go unnoticed. Definitely put new tires on there before you do any driving. Tires that old might as well be made of plastic. It won''t take much throttle or G to spin out and do a 360.
Also, congratulations on the find and the startup. So, 951 or baby? (Seriously.)
None of these 951s are slipping through the cracks anymore. They are so hard to find these days, so good job finding a preserved one. It's amazing how they'll start and run after so much time time time.
As much as it pains me I agree on the tires. They are one of the only things I have a receipt for - showing they only have about 150 miles on them. Still at 10+ years old I know they're finished, plus the fact they sat flat for years.
Regarding the 951 vs baby, can't I choose both? Gotta start them young!
I will find a way to get his car seat safely installed in the back, even if it means making anchor points and taking out the front passenger seat. But seriously this project is keeping me sane. Even if I only get to work on it a couple hours a week, it is therapeutic. My wife sees it too, which is the only reason I'm getting away with this.
Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn
I second the tire comment (based on unfortunate personal experience), and would also strongly suggest you go over the brakes and make sure they work as designed before driving it on the road... Great work waking up that car -- it certainly looks worthy of the effort.
Thanks for the encouragement. I received a brake bleeder yesterday so I'll be going over the brake system next while I wait for replacement injector(s). The pads and rotors look like new, only very minimal surface rust on the rotors which will polish off no problem. Think I should pull the pads out and inspect things? Besides wear and obvious seal leaks, I'm not really sure what to inspect on these Brembo brakes. There's no pins/sliders that I'm aware of to grease like on more typical floating calipers.
"Think I should pull the pads out and inspect things?"
I would clean/inspect/bleed/clean then apply some anti squeal to the back of the pads.
Agreed. I'd change the fluid and start by confirming the system holds pressure when you bleed it. Then inspect the pads and scuff them if needed, or just replace them (they're cheap in the long run). Take a look at the brake lines too to see if they are super dry or bulging or otherwise on their last legs. Once you know they work to stop the car and everything looks good, drive slowly (like 10mph) and brake with your hands off the wheel to see if it pulls to one side.
So I received a couple injectors today from 87944turbo (thanks Ben!) and swapped the best one he recommended with the one I knew was leaking. When I try to start the car now it cranks and barely stuffers to life, but is running very rough and rich. I have to hold the throttle about 15% to keep it from stalling. It is way rougher than my previous start, smoking me out of my garage. Not good, but on a positive note my fuel leak is gone.
My diagnoses is too much / unburnt fuel, so either leaky injector(s) or bad ignition. Thinking about what has changed, there’s obviously a different injector. I had replaced my old spark plug wires with new NGK wires but I put the old ones back on to rule them out, and I’m pretty sure I’ve got them wired properly (2,1,3,4). Aside from that I’ve just done brake and shifter work which I can’t see being related.
One thing I thought of is that last week while I still had the old bad injector, I took out all the injectors and cleaned them with a can of carb cleaner - hosing then off externally and spraying some into the strainer basket. In retrospect that was probably the wrong kind of cleaner to use. Could I have damaged them? Causing them to spray too much fuel?
Most interestingly, I decided to swap the “new“ injector with another one that Ben sent me. I pulled the fuel pump fuse and started the car to release any fuel pressure. It ran for about five seconds as expected, but it actually ran very smoothly. So with no fuel pressure it actually ran much better... Would that support the idea that one or more injectors is leaking and causing it to run super rich? BTW the car ran similarly bad with the other injector but it looked pretty beat up so I wouldn’t draw conclusions from that.
I’m going to look tomorrow to see if I can find any local companies that can clean and flow test injectors. The clock is ticking before I give up on driving my car this season. Any feedback would be very appreciated.
This weekend I spent about 8 hours messing around troubleshooting different things. I went over the fuel and ignition systems in detail finding no faults. I was about to drag out my (period correct) oscilloscope and start electrical diagnostics, and step one is making sure everything is plugged in securely... that's when I discovered the connector/socket for one of the reference sensors has gotten brittle and the wire clip no longer keeps them together. They must have gotten knocked apart at some point. I plugged it back in and the car purred to life. I was under the impression that the car wouldn't start at all without these connected and never bothered to look. Classic reminder to always check the simple things first.
Anyway the car now starts great, revs up strongly, but idles pretty rough. It does improve after warming up, and is better with a touch of gas. The exhaust smells pretty strong too, even after warming up but that could be related to all the unburnt fuel that blew out the tailpipe during my earlier testing:
Thank goodness it isn't doing that any more! Hopefully the stink will fade after some driving. I think there are still minor vacuum leaks to fix and I'll still plan on sending the injectors to Witchhunter this winter for cleaning/balancing. It looks like the previous owner replaced the idle control valve so maybe he was having similar issues with the rough idle. I'm pretty confident the FPR is working properly (according to a fuel pressure gauge). I checked the DME temperature sensor and it is reading within spec. Anything else I should look at to improve a rough idle? I don't think it'll stop me from getting the car inspected but I'd still like to fix it.
So I've run the car up to temp a few times and it seems like the snot in the exhaust system has mostly burned itself off. I still want to do a compression test and check the plugs but the car is running pretty good, especially after it warms up a bit. I'm almost at the point where I can take it for its maiden test drive, just a few items left on my original to-do list. The main things left are bleeding the front brakes and the clutch, checking the bearings / grease in the front wheels, gluing the driver's side mirror glass back into the housing (it was falling off so I saved it before it fell), and restoring the license plate brackets. The aftermarket light bar has been deleted. Plus new tires.
Once I'm ready I'll need to take the car for a provincial safety inspection. Reviewing the published requirements, the only thing I'm concerned about is a small oil leak. I traced it to the rubber hoses on the external oil cooler, where oil is seeping out of the crimped ends on both hoses so there's a couple drips per hour. But I'm running out of money here - new OEM / Lart hoses are like $400US/set ($550CAD) - plus it looks like the task of accessing the hoses at the oil filter end will be difficult / impossible. So I'm just hoping the leak is minor enough to get passed the inspection and I'll deal with it later - this is the only time the car will be inspected during my ownership. I found a local hydraulic shop who can rebuild them with new hose but I don't see how that will work with all the bends molded into the lower hose. Any other suggestions or shared experiences here would be great.
In the meantime I rebuilt my shifter for "free" (using my $1200 lathe...) It had typical slop in the shifter mechanism, bad enough to be unsure which gear I'm in. I took out the shifter, cut the weld and removed the original pin which was worn down. I then copied the design, made a new pin on my lathe, and welded it back into place. I also got a new plastic bushing for the base.
The result - a dramatic improvement. You can actually tell now if you're in gear or neutral now! This didn't account for wear in the linkage so it isn't perfect, but for an evening's work I'm pleased. I expect the only944 shifter would be even better. I'll consider upgrading to that and the short shifter if/when I drop the transaxle. Without going into detail, I fear a clutch job is in my near future... so much for my budget!
08-27-2018, 03:52 PM
