17 inch C2 wheels
#16
Originally posted by Robby
they ARE ONLY avaiable in 18's- IF they made hollow spokes in 17's,
they ARE ONLY avaiable in 18's- IF they made hollow spokes in 17's,
#17
Originally posted by sybelix
they are available 17" from Mille Miglia Italy, but they are "copy" of the real thing. Also not so light and not so "solid"
they are available 17" from Mille Miglia Italy, but they are "copy" of the real thing. Also not so light and not so "solid"
#19
i had 205/50/16 on the old wheels and now the new wheels have 225/45/17 all the way around. Before i got these wheels i had 225/50/16 on the rear and it felt like the rear was sitting up a little higher then the front. I will change the fron to 205/45/17 so i can get the same look.b
#20
BEAUTIFUL!
BUT.... why are you planning to reduce the size of the fronts? what WIDTH did you get? The standard REAR width is 9"- you should DEFINATELY run at least a 255/40/17 om it- this will give you the wider rear like you want- the RD is a HAIR higher too, than the 225/45/17- it's 25.03 vs just a HAIR under 25"- I THINK it's 24.97"... If you really want a forward rake, then, either raise the back (via T-bars- VERY VERY SIMPLE) OR lower the front (IF you have adj coil-overs) OR BOTH, but would only have to mess w/a TINY TINY bit either way.... Also, are these wheels factory or replica? In any event, they look beautiful...
BUT.... why are you planning to reduce the size of the fronts? what WIDTH did you get? The standard REAR width is 9"- you should DEFINATELY run at least a 255/40/17 om it- this will give you the wider rear like you want- the RD is a HAIR higher too, than the 225/45/17- it's 25.03 vs just a HAIR under 25"- I THINK it's 24.97"... If you really want a forward rake, then, either raise the back (via T-bars- VERY VERY SIMPLE) OR lower the front (IF you have adj coil-overs) OR BOTH, but would only have to mess w/a TINY TINY bit either way.... Also, are these wheels factory or replica? In any event, they look beautiful...
#21
Thanks, they are replica. Looks good though. I dont race the car so the extra weight doesnt bother me.(i heard they are a little heavier then factory wheels)
I had 205/50/16 on the front before and now all 4 are 225/45/17. Im going to see if the tire shop had 205/45/17 for the fron because i liked that setup, rear was slightly higher then fron.
I had 205/50/16 on the front before and now all 4 are 225/45/17. Im going to see if the tire shop had 205/45/17 for the fron because i liked that setup, rear was slightly higher then fron.
#22
Sure, the rear being larger than the front is cool, but, why not just get LAGER REARS? Do you know what widths they are? I'm assuming 7" & 9"- possibly 7" & 8" & VERY UNLIKELY, but the front COULD be a 7.5". IF you have even the 8" wide rear, then you should bump that up>>>
Robby
Robby
#24
As said now THREE times, with the 7.5 use 225/45/17 all around. You could use 205/50/17 in the front but truth be told these cars are very neutral and handle well with same size wheels/tires all around.
Are you using Kumho KH711? It may just say 711 on it.
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Are you using Kumho KH711? It may just say 711 on it.
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#25
Exactly- I understand they're a little heavier than the 18" hollow's- I'd rather just have the 18's if that were the case- I've never been able to get anyone to weigh the 17" version though, to confirm...
People here pay far too much attention to this. If your car is blindingly fast and you are trying to get that last .3 sec per lap then wheels weight is important. If you are driving around town, never see the track, and dont run 1/4 mile for money then it is, in large part, irrelevant. In a double blind test people would be wrong 50% of the time as to which car had the heavier wheels.
I see the issue of wheel weight come up here far too often. The 1%ers (that is people who might actually be able to tell the difference) sure love to point out wheel weight though.
BTW - adjusting the T-bars is NOT very,very simple as stated above, it might be one of the most difficult jobs on the car.
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People here pay far too much attention to this. If your car is blindingly fast and you are trying to get that last .3 sec per lap then wheels weight is important. If you are driving around town, never see the track, and dont run 1/4 mile for money then it is, in large part, irrelevant. In a double blind test people would be wrong 50% of the time as to which car had the heavier wheels.
I see the issue of wheel weight come up here far too often. The 1%ers (that is people who might actually be able to tell the difference) sure love to point out wheel weight though.
BTW - adjusting the T-bars is NOT very,very simple as stated above, it might be one of the most difficult jobs on the car.
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#27
Matt- first off, adjusting the T-bars for a tiny little amount like he's talking about it EXTREMELY EASY! Now removing & re-indexing is another story... Second, I disagree about weight being over rated-, but ONLY b/c most people on this list will pay BIG bucks for looks, but not consider researching anything any deeper- as for lap times & acceleration, etc, sure, it would be hard to feel the dif, but, I think you would notice the weight MORE on the street than on the track normally- this only b/c the susp on our cars is NOT multi link like some of the more sophosticated E36 M3's, etc- you feel more bumps, etc w/heavier wheels, although THAT MAY be an overstated fact as I've never taken the Pepsi challenge- wouldn't matter anyway, as w/the age of these cars, you'll never find any two w/the exact same state of tune w/just susp, much less throwing in engine as well to REALLY be able to write the performance dif off to being ONLY WHEEL WEIGHT. The prob is that these cars are very heavy for their size- they could really stand to be <2900lbs test- this 250lbs reduction, when taken from all over the car INLCUDING the wheels, would help EVERYTHING- I think of lighter weight as helping more for handling, braking, gas mileage, etc, than for straigh line accel, but, that's just me & I KNOW I'm not at the level of driving skill that would make it actually PAY for itself- ANd, as I said earlier, I would take a set of 17" C2s OVER my 16" CS's even though it would ADD ~20lbs total to my car- I would just deal w/it as it would be worth it IMO- but, I think I'd rather get 17" 993s & actually LOSE ~4lbs total, but again, I wouldn't turn down the C2's & i think they LOOK BETTER...
Antonialli- are you saying the REARS are 7.5" too? If so, that's cool- I just missed that earlier. You COULD go to a 235/45/17 if you didn't mind the TINY bit of extra profile (assuming there IS such a tire made)- this would give you a SLIGHTLY wider rear w/slightly higher rear height too, IF that IS what you want- we're talking about millimeters here though, so perfomrance shouldn't be noticeable really... Also, IF you were to stay w/225/45/17's all around, you would have the benefit of rotating your tires for longer life, etc- a benefit that VERY FEW 944 owners get to enjoy... Either way, you can make it work for you & you've got a nice looking set of wheels that really enhances the look of the car IMO....
Antonialli- are you saying the REARS are 7.5" too? If so, that's cool- I just missed that earlier. You COULD go to a 235/45/17 if you didn't mind the TINY bit of extra profile (assuming there IS such a tire made)- this would give you a SLIGHTLY wider rear w/slightly higher rear height too, IF that IS what you want- we're talking about millimeters here though, so perfomrance shouldn't be noticeable really... Also, IF you were to stay w/225/45/17's all around, you would have the benefit of rotating your tires for longer life, etc- a benefit that VERY FEW 944 owners get to enjoy... Either way, you can make it work for you & you've got a nice looking set of wheels that really enhances the look of the car IMO....
#28
Antoniali-
I saw the other thread & am responding to something you've mentioned several times- didn't want to respond in thje other one, in an attempt to let it die down...
you're saying the ride height has changed- that the rear used to sit higher (OR the front LOWER)- if the front is lower, then it is forward rake- if hte rear is lower, tehn it is rearward rake. The dif in tire width will not change this- what you have to do is find your RD (rolling diameter)- the 225/45/17 is 24.97". A 205/50/17 is 25.07" so, will actually RAISE the front of the car even more- a 205/45/17 is way out of proportion- that woud be a 24.26". a 215/45/17 (if there is such a tire) is 24.62", again, though, kind of out of yor range... A 255/40/17 is 25.03", but, if you have a 7.5" wide wheel on the rear, then this will be too large, although that is a VERY STRANGE size wheel to have for the rear of one of these cars- hell, the 7.5" is pretty rare for the front, although very nice to have when a 9" is used in back... Anyway, what size tires did you have BEFORE you went w/these wheels? We can see what you'r RD WAS & find out why you feel the car is sitting kind of differently... Also, remember, the dif in height willbe HALF the dif of the RD, which is a VERY SMALL increment, which is why I suggested just using the T-bar nuts to adjust your height- we're talking less tha a 1/4" probably & adjusting your T-bars that much is simple... In other words, IF you went from a 25" wheel to a 24" RD, you would be changing the total height of the car by .5"....
I saw the other thread & am responding to something you've mentioned several times- didn't want to respond in thje other one, in an attempt to let it die down...
you're saying the ride height has changed- that the rear used to sit higher (OR the front LOWER)- if the front is lower, then it is forward rake- if hte rear is lower, tehn it is rearward rake. The dif in tire width will not change this- what you have to do is find your RD (rolling diameter)- the 225/45/17 is 24.97". A 205/50/17 is 25.07" so, will actually RAISE the front of the car even more- a 205/45/17 is way out of proportion- that woud be a 24.26". a 215/45/17 (if there is such a tire) is 24.62", again, though, kind of out of yor range... A 255/40/17 is 25.03", but, if you have a 7.5" wide wheel on the rear, then this will be too large, although that is a VERY STRANGE size wheel to have for the rear of one of these cars- hell, the 7.5" is pretty rare for the front, although very nice to have when a 9" is used in back... Anyway, what size tires did you have BEFORE you went w/these wheels? We can see what you'r RD WAS & find out why you feel the car is sitting kind of differently... Also, remember, the dif in height willbe HALF the dif of the RD, which is a VERY SMALL increment, which is why I suggested just using the T-bar nuts to adjust your height- we're talking less tha a 1/4" probably & adjusting your T-bars that much is simple... In other words, IF you went from a 25" wheel to a 24" RD, you would be changing the total height of the car by .5"....
#29
Robby, adjusting the T-bars is not easy regardless of how far (it is not a Chevy truck). You can adjust the eccentric bolt (usually to lower, though you can raise the car a tad).
I agree 100% that people go for looks over weight. However, I have had this discussion with professional racers and professional test drivers and they agree with me that the average person is not going to notice the weight differential. I just dont think that the average driver will ever notice a few pounds per wheel?
BTW - his wheels are 17x7.5 Replica wheels all around. That is why I suggested the 225/45/17 and yes they do make a 215/45/17 (see every rice car in America with 17" wheels).
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I agree 100% that people go for looks over weight. However, I have had this discussion with professional racers and professional test drivers and they agree with me that the average person is not going to notice the weight differential. I just dont think that the average driver will ever notice a few pounds per wheel?
BTW - his wheels are 17x7.5 Replica wheels all around. That is why I suggested the 225/45/17 and yes they do make a 215/45/17 (see every rice car in America with 17" wheels).
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