Retrofitting non-oem AC condenser and compressor
#1
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Retrofitting non-oem AC condenser and compressor
I figure I start a thread for those interested in this in the future. I will be installing an aftermarket parallel flow condenser and sanden compressor unit. I will be removing brackets from condenser and transfer over to new unit. I just need to figure out brackets for sanden compressor. Ive contacted a few places that offer them as a kit to see if they'd possibly sell them separately. Will be also installing custom crimped lines instead of hose clamps. All this should cost under $600, including hose fittings, hoses and crimp tool. Which is less than what a new compressor would cost. If anyone has done this already, please share here. Much appreciated. Thanks -Wayne
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EliteThink (07-11-2023)
#2
Rainman
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Hi,
Those Sanden bracket kits exist already, I have installed before.
Be aware that the "aftermarket reproduction" Sanden-type compressors have a tendency to fail in short order.
Either get a warranty, or get a genuine Sanden unit ($500+).
Those Sanden bracket kits exist already, I have installed before.
Be aware that the "aftermarket reproduction" Sanden-type compressors have a tendency to fail in short order.
Either get a warranty, or get a genuine Sanden unit ($500+).
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tempest411 (01-20-2024)
#3
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Read about Sanden style compressors and will be getting an oem sanden unit. Getting most of the parts of Ebay. I've tried looking for this bracket? Only guys that I saw carry them was Paragon Products and Griffiths. Anyone else? Don't wanna shell out $180 just for brackets from Paragon if I won't be using anything else from the kit. Thanks
#4
Rainman
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Thing is, you have to use everything that comes in that kit.
If you go with a crimped hose the only things not used would be the hose clamps...
However, the hardest part of the kit is that the hose from evaporator back to compressor is crimped onto a long section of hard line which runs into the car and way under the dash.
That's the one that having the hose clamp option makes life much, much simpler for - just cut the factory fitting off, stick new fitting in and clamp. Otherwise you'd have to add a fitting joint in the car (no working room) or remove the whole line from the body (it's at least 6-7 feet long and has lots of bends, I didn't re-do the one in my car until I had the engine out).
If you go with a crimped hose the only things not used would be the hose clamps...
However, the hardest part of the kit is that the hose from evaporator back to compressor is crimped onto a long section of hard line which runs into the car and way under the dash.
That's the one that having the hose clamp option makes life much, much simpler for - just cut the factory fitting off, stick new fitting in and clamp. Otherwise you'd have to add a fitting joint in the car (no working room) or remove the whole line from the body (it's at least 6-7 feet long and has lots of bends, I didn't re-do the one in my car until I had the engine out).
#5
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Thread Starter
Thing is, you have to use everything that comes in that kit.
If you go with a crimped hose the only things not used would be the hose clamps...
However, the hardest part of the kit is that the hose from evaporator back to compressor is crimped onto a long section of hard line which runs into the car and way under the dash.
That's the one that having the hose clamp option makes life much, much simpler for - just cut the factory fitting off, stick new fitting in and clamp. Otherwise you'd have to add a fitting joint in the car (no working room) or remove the whole line from the body (it's at least 6-7 feet long and has lots of bends, I didn't re-do the one in my car until I had the engine out).
If you go with a crimped hose the only things not used would be the hose clamps...
However, the hardest part of the kit is that the hose from evaporator back to compressor is crimped onto a long section of hard line which runs into the car and way under the dash.
That's the one that having the hose clamp option makes life much, much simpler for - just cut the factory fitting off, stick new fitting in and clamp. Otherwise you'd have to add a fitting joint in the car (no working room) or remove the whole line from the body (it's at least 6-7 feet long and has lots of bends, I didn't re-do the one in my car until I had the engine out).
It is a tight fit. But I will be doing the retrofit during turbo and exhaust swap out also. Need to figure out the fitting size for connection at ac pressure switch.
#6
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I have put Sanden or Kulhl compressors on a couple of 944's and one 968. I would recommend changing all the rubber hose to the newer barrier hose if you are going to use 134. Cut the beadlock ferrule on the existing hose with a dremel being careful not to damage the fitting by cutting too deep. You can then get new ferrules and crimp the hose on to the old fitting with a beadlock crimper. You will need 2 new fittings for the compressor. Be sure the compressor fitting with the charge port is where you have access to it. If I remember correctly the barrier hose size going to the drier was a size 6.
#7
Three Wheelin'
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Shorty ... Good thread... I think you're right to start with a better condenser, which one are you looking at? I've shopped a few times for one but never found one that fit and was not significantly smaller than the OEM version....Bruce
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If anyone has done this already, please share here. Much appreciated. Thanks -Wayne
Mistake 1 - hose clamps on AC hoses (barrier) with 134 were leaky.
Mistake 2 - failed to get old mineral oil cleaned out of the system and PAG oil did not play well with mineral oil.
I want to get outlet temps in the low 30's (on a typical STL summer day). This is sort of my "dyno sheet or it didn't happen" test. So I think a parallel flow condenser is going to be needed. I'm hoping to find one that fits, works and is inside the Wayne's budget. I don't think I care so much about the fittings because I'm going to rebuild the hoses anyway with barrier. I don't think I care so much about the bracketry because I can do that or get someone on CNC Zone to cut them for me.
A quick (through the grill) measurement of my 87 951 shows the oem condenser is about 12 x 21. I find a condenser on ebay that might work, see pic. The price is too good to be true. Along the way I've read that parallel condensers cannot be flushed so that adds to the need for a low cost version.
Crimping the hoses is another show stopper. I don't really want to pull the engine and so I got this crimper that I'm hoping I can work in situ. It was $235 shipped, see pic.
So now the last thing I'm thinking about is the flush. I going to try and reseal the compressor myself and at that time flush it out. If I can manage to get the connections to the evaporator apart, I might be able devise some way to blow out the lines and then the evaporator with flush liquid. I need to change those orings anyway and I expect to use a new dryer and POE oil.
So that's my plan. Hopefully it will spur some discussion and add to Wayne's thread....Bruce
#12
Rainman
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Vic,
not to speak for Bruce but I was probably the first one using that type of condenser on a 944 almost 10 years ago, and I made a few bolt-in units for RLers back in the day.
I still have one in my car, 14x20 I think, it works quite well with R134.
not to speak for Bruce but I was probably the first one using that type of condenser on a 944 almost 10 years ago, and I made a few bolt-in units for RLers back in the day.
I still have one in my car, 14x20 I think, it works quite well with R134.
#13
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I was just looking up crimpers and figured I try this option. Which crimper did you end up using? Obviously, a hydraulic crimper is required for an in-car modification to the hoses.
So you ended up using a different condenser size compared to Bruce?
So you ended up using a different condenser size compared to Bruce?
#14
Rainman
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I pulled the entire AC system out of the chassis and had everything redone at a hose shop. Probably $200 in rubber and crimping labor.
I've used the 14x20 parallel flow since 2008, it's a little taller than a 944 stock unit but it does fit in the stock space.
Stock 944 core vs one of mine:
Here's one I made to bolt into a 944S. Note, I don't make these anymore, but just to show you it's doable.
Mounted in the car (painted ends)
I've used the 14x20 parallel flow since 2008, it's a little taller than a 944 stock unit but it does fit in the stock space.
Stock 944 core vs one of mine:
Here's one I made to bolt into a 944S. Note, I don't make these anymore, but just to show you it's doable.
Mounted in the car (painted ends)