Opinions on LEDA suspension
12-30-2003, 10:30 AM
#16
Three Wheelin'
Sean,
Stupid newbie question, but you're placing the heat shrink over the coil spring, right?
My gas charged Ledas are sitting on the garage floor, awaiting assembly and installation. A couple tips like these might save me the hassle of doing it twice.
-Jon
Stupid newbie question, but you're placing the heat shrink over the coil spring, right?
My gas charged Ledas are sitting on the garage floor, awaiting assembly and installation. A couple tips like these might save me the hassle of doing it twice.
-Jon
12-30-2003, 11:47 AM
#17
Drifting
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Taiwan
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Hi,
Sean the first thing that I did before
installing the rear shocks was to remove
the eye, clean it & added loctite to it.
My god can't image what would have
happened if you were running coilovers
only. Funny I don't have any rattling at
all. Totally agree, the rears are a tight
fit even for my 951, I had to machine spacers
to adjust the angle of the shock to prevent
the springs from rubbing against the chassis.
Yes, Jon you slip the tubing onto the coil springs.
Hmmm, heat shrink haaah, mine is supplied
with a different material.
Sean the first thing that I did before
installing the rear shocks was to remove
the eye, clean it & added loctite to it.
My god can't image what would have
happened if you were running coilovers
only. Funny I don't have any rattling at
all. Totally agree, the rears are a tight
fit even for my 951, I had to machine spacers
to adjust the angle of the shock to prevent
the springs from rubbing against the chassis.
Yes, Jon you slip the tubing onto the coil springs.
Hmmm, heat shrink haaah, mine is supplied
with a different material.
01-02-2004, 10:16 PM
#18
Cruisin'
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 9
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Jon, J Chen,
Leda does supply a rubber sleeve which goes over the outside of the spring. This rubber sleeve acts as a dust boot to keep road debris away from the seals on the piston rod. I highly recommend this for road-going cars.
On my S2, I have had some problems with the coil spring rattling against the shock body. This was particularly annoying at the rear, where I could really hear the rattling noise. This was a problem ever since the rear shocks were installed about 1 year ago.
When I removed the shock, I discovered that the spring was wearing down the threads on the shock body. This is not a big deal if the adjustable spring perch is always at the same setting. However, if you wanted to raise the ride height or change to a different spring, threads that are all worn down is not a good thing.
I later discovered this happening on the right front strut as well. The problem is that the spring has only about 1/16" clearance to the shock body. Thus if the spring does not sit perfectly straight on the shock body, then it wears on the threaded body. There is also very little space to inside the spring to stop this problem.
Our solution was to utilize a piece of heat shrink tubing which was about 2-1/2" ID when expanded. The tubing is then shrunk down to a snug but not excessively tight fit on the shock body itself. The tubing can be removed if the spring perch must come off, and the ratting and wearing of the shock body is eliminated.
I would not have expected this issue to come up with a high end spring like Hypercoil, but what can you say, its just a really tight fit.
Also be aware that if you are running the helper springs at the rear, you will probably find that the coil spring rubs against the chassis a little bit. It is best to install the shocks, then jack up the car and set it down on ramps so you can check the spring clearance with the suspension in the normal position.
You will probably find it a bit tight to the torsion bar reaction arm, and especially to one bolt head which secures the "supporting mount", as described by the PET disc, which is the rubberized mount throught which the reaction torque from the torsion bar is transmitted through the arm to the chassis. I had to grind away about 1/2 of one bolt head, on both sides of the car, to minimize the interference at that bolt.
All is pretty much quiet back there now, so it must be working okay. I don't expect the heat shrink tubing to last forever, but better for it to wear out than the shocks themselves.
Best regards.
Leda does supply a rubber sleeve which goes over the outside of the spring. This rubber sleeve acts as a dust boot to keep road debris away from the seals on the piston rod. I highly recommend this for road-going cars.
On my S2, I have had some problems with the coil spring rattling against the shock body. This was particularly annoying at the rear, where I could really hear the rattling noise. This was a problem ever since the rear shocks were installed about 1 year ago.
When I removed the shock, I discovered that the spring was wearing down the threads on the shock body. This is not a big deal if the adjustable spring perch is always at the same setting. However, if you wanted to raise the ride height or change to a different spring, threads that are all worn down is not a good thing.
I later discovered this happening on the right front strut as well. The problem is that the spring has only about 1/16" clearance to the shock body. Thus if the spring does not sit perfectly straight on the shock body, then it wears on the threaded body. There is also very little space to inside the spring to stop this problem.
Our solution was to utilize a piece of heat shrink tubing which was about 2-1/2" ID when expanded. The tubing is then shrunk down to a snug but not excessively tight fit on the shock body itself. The tubing can be removed if the spring perch must come off, and the ratting and wearing of the shock body is eliminated.
I would not have expected this issue to come up with a high end spring like Hypercoil, but what can you say, its just a really tight fit.
Also be aware that if you are running the helper springs at the rear, you will probably find that the coil spring rubs against the chassis a little bit. It is best to install the shocks, then jack up the car and set it down on ramps so you can check the spring clearance with the suspension in the normal position.
You will probably find it a bit tight to the torsion bar reaction arm, and especially to one bolt head which secures the "supporting mount", as described by the PET disc, which is the rubberized mount throught which the reaction torque from the torsion bar is transmitted through the arm to the chassis. I had to grind away about 1/2 of one bolt head, on both sides of the car, to minimize the interference at that bolt.
All is pretty much quiet back there now, so it must be working okay. I don't expect the heat shrink tubing to last forever, but better for it to wear out than the shocks themselves.
Best regards.
