jeeper31

Thinking of that if not the pillar. don't know if pillar is thick enough.

Roral

The laser pointer, is used for finding a sweet spot (the place where the tweeter's music is going) you don't REALLY need to do this with midrange or bass drivers, because bass is none dirrectional. In contrast to the High end.

The Sweet Spot is the location that you want the music or sound to go. For example the Drivers head. I mounted the laser pointer (which i picked up from a dollar store for) onto a piece of wood, at 90 degrees, then place the laser pointer over top of the Tweeter (granted the tweeter's mount has the housing to pivot or move) then have someone site in the Drivers side then, aim the laser towards the person's head.

That will help with imaging a lot more, then having the factory location firing music at your legs. Now if your going to listen to music at 120dB then there is no real point to pulling out a laser pointer or worrying about imagining. the interior of the car is small, and if your music is loud then you don't have to worry about any of the image or anything along those lines.

And i have seen somewhere on the net a guy that sells fiberglass pillars,with tweeter mounts for 130bones 924,944,951,968 cars. I'll see if i can find the URL and i'll PM it to you.

I have one question about the Kappa perfect, Kevin. are you going to mount the sub vertically or horizontally? The ported enclosure i designed for my buddy's Perfect 10, was would be hard pressed to fit into spare well, mainly because of having proper mounting from the enclosure walls and such. Did you pick up the PerfectQ, DVC or SVC?

Skitch

Nice kick panels, I think thats about the best combination of sound and looks you can get. Keeps the speakers on a good axis and keeps the tweeters close by. I am a bit of a purist, I know the car isn't the greatest envirnment, but its always best to keep the tweeters within 6-8" of the mid for sound purposes. If you move the tweeter too far away you have to process the signal to get it to sound right. The less processing the better the sound. Deck -> xover -> amp, short sweet signal path.

My .02

Tim

kevin Dubois

i got a Kappa perfect 12.1D so it is a dual voice coil. i couldn't justify spending 50 dollars more for the variable Q sub. As far as the box, i was planning on cutting out the bracket for the spare tire. then using the fiberglass for corners and rounded sides, i should be able to get the nesessary volume for a ported enclosure. i really haven;t look to much into wheater or not i want to mount the sub vertically or horizontally. right now i am considering having the sub facing up, but i need to check into opening size of the wheel well. running a sealed enclosure i know is possible, so when i get the sub i will look into the volume i have. i'm not running a tremendous amount of power to the sub, so it is not a big deal.

i have a MTX 895 5 channel amp.

Kurt

Those are precisely where mine are located

Roral

Skitch, good call, path of less resistance. I am a audiophile too (but on a beer budget) The first 944 I had came with this unreal system, then my car was accidently parked under a jacked up 4x4. and the body shop it went to picked it clean Nakamichi all round including amp, with a so so Kenwood deck, because everything was taken after my accident i could have had to make another claim and that would have been another 300 bones on top of the 300 i already paid them. And they would only cover 1g of the cost to replace everything, so I might have got an amp out of it.

Anyways Kevin, your going to be running how many watts into the sub? Its not wise to underdrive a woofer. if you look at Peak and RMS, you could actually put 3000 watts into a 400watt sub and have no problems. Just as long as your peak is short. If you underdrive the cone and are trying to play your Music or mainly your bass as the highest level. Your going to either clip the signel raise distortion and then kill the sub or be disappointed. I am not sure of the specs on the amp but unless it has two inputs for power? like one for the 5th channel and one for the other 4? I have found with 5 channel amps (which i wish i could afford) are great for running a well balanced system. But if you want killer bass and really clean full range channels you need to two amps. Thats just me. I am not sure what your going for but by the sounds of it, your system is going for a really well rounded sweet system. Your running Kappas up front (so i would think from the grills) and a Perfect sub. One of my favorite subs for out put and frequency responce. Are you going to be running a Cap? or just straight from the Battery? What brand of wire are you running like for interconnection?
If you use MSN msg add me to your contact list sgs_chi_nbts162@msn.com i work for MSn so i am on all the time doing nothing.

kevin Dubois

Roral: my amps specs are as follows: for the sub channel i will be running at 2 ohms so the amp generates 320 watts RMS (at 12.5 V, for dynamic power, at 14.5 V it puts out 490 watts RMS at 2 ohm). for the rest of the speakers it is 35 watt at 4 ohm 12.5 V per channel. the front speakers are actually running at 2 ohm so 70 watt RMS. i have a 1 farad Capacitor as well. oh, and the amp is underrated by quite a bit. in fact the birth certificate for it said 600 watt total power rated at, and it was tested at 739 RMS total power.

i am running kappa's up front and in the rear. my goal was not heart stopping bass, but to have a really well rounded sound. i had the super bass back in high school and don't need that anymore.

also, i was considering running two seperate amps one mono for the sub and a 4 channel for the mids, but it was to expensive. the 5 channel was reasonably priced considering i get an employee discount=) plus i didn't really need to much power for the sub so buying a huge mono amp just wasn't really a good idea.