seb928s

Is there anyway of doing a front wheel alignment at home without haven't to get high tech items or going to a shop with computers? Would like to know if there is a way of doing it since I need my ball joints the alignment has been off and would like to do it cheap. I don't need it perfect but to have the car go straight would be good. I did make the marks on the frame where the control arms went but matched them up the best I could but it is off.

jabbadeznuts

Not really. Not a good alignment at least. If you get Excellence, I know there are some ads in there for an "at-home" allignment tool. *shrugs*

cambria

You can box the car with two paralelle lines each side of the car by using a thin nylon string supported at center of the wheel. Make the string so that it is with in 2" of the center of the rear wheels. Make sure that the measurement between the strings is the exact same at the front and the rear. Now set the front wheels so they are straight. Next measure the difference between the back and front of the rim to the string on both side of the car. The goal is to have the front of the rim to measure 1/16" more than the rear on both sides of the car. This will give you a 1/8" toe in wich is OK. You can make the toe in anything from 1/64" to 1/16". Good luck

seb928s

Cambria

Hmm I have done work rebuilt engines and other stuff to my car myself but I'm lost on the whole alignment with the strings of 2in from the center from which side back or front and also what do I do to adjust it? Also where do I mesure from on the front and back of the rim from and to? Toe rod? Anybody has pictures of this process and I learn a lot from looking at things? Thanks

OZ951

Do a search on the web and you will find numerous articles that describe how to set up your car with string lines that will allow you to do the alignment. To adjust toe you will rotate the tie rods, to adjust camber you will adjust the camber eccentric washer/bolt at the strut base and to adjust caster you will pivot the caster adjusting tab on the castor block (good luck with measuring that one though). Camber can be measured (within a degree) with an angle indicating gauge that you can get from a hardware store.

When you set up the string lines they need to be equidistant from the centerline of the car.

SoCal Driver

Camber has to be referenced to the slope/angle of the floor and perpendicular to the car's center line. The floor is more important than the car's center line. Could use a large right angle such as a carpenters angle.

As to toe in; I've used two broom handles pull tied together and a six inch ruler to set it. Use on the inside of the tires as high as possible front and back. Slide the handles out against the tires and mark.

Caster is another matter. Moving the ends of the a-arms out increases the caster. Moving them in decreases the caster. I would leave it where it is. If this is the steel arms clean the area and use a marker of a splat of spray paint on both ends. Even though the aluminum arms have an eccentric bolt tab thing I would still do the paint thing on the bracket.

Do the camber first. Doesn't move the toe in as much as the caster. Then the toe in. This IF you don't futz with the caster.

You will want to keep the steering wheel centered where it is. So you may have to adjust both tie rods.

Charlotte944

Since you just worked on the front end, why not plunk down $50.00 and have an alignment done.

I fully understand your need to keep the expenses down, but this is one area where you need to bite the bullet. Don't risk your safety, or the safety of others just to save a few bucks.

Other than improper inflation and road hazards, alignment errors are the #1 cause of premature tire failure. Bad alignments also cause handling and braking issues that can lead to loss of control.

Most tire stores (Firestone, Pep boys, Tire Kingdom, etc.) can do a computer front end alignment that is more than adequate.