New Problem...No power to injectors 944S
#16
#17
With the DME disconnected and power of unhook all the injectors and see it you have continuity at the injector plug if you do there is a short in the plug wire harness...
insulation gets brittle with heat and as you said you just removed the head so you moved those wires around and so something might be touching now...
insulation gets brittle with heat and as you said you just removed the head so you moved those wires around and so something might be touching now...
#18
All great suggestions guys but as mentioned earlier those issues have been checked (injector pulse, spark).
Rotor is in the correct position, timing is correct but unless bypassing the relay suddenly works I have to start from scratch including removing the valve cover to verify correct CAM relations. However I would suspect that it wound't run with starter fluid if the timing was that off. I didn't let the CAM gear move on the hub with removed.
I wouldn't think the Noid light would work if I had a short.
Rotor is in the correct position, timing is correct but unless bypassing the relay suddenly works I have to start from scratch including removing the valve cover to verify correct CAM relations. However I would suspect that it wound't run with starter fluid if the timing was that off. I didn't let the CAM gear move on the hub with removed.
I wouldn't think the Noid light would work if I had a short.
#19
Hi Tom I think I will double check. I always recalled my timing marks not being perfectly lined up when it ran (Cam was slightly off mark due to cam adjustment) but now it's dead on. I may have to pop the valve cover off and check against the actual cam positions. It could be as simple as that.
#20
Rennlist Member
Have you considered pulling the injectors and putting them in clear containers during cranking? You could see how much fuel is actually making it in. Noid light needs almost no current to blink, injectors need more.
#21
Rennlist Member
Yeah, I was thinking the same. I've had luck pulling the spark plugs and just looking and smelling for gas in the cylinders when you crank it. If gas is spraying in there, you'll know... As said, I wouldn't assume the injectors are firing just because a noid light blinks.
#22
#24
Rennlist Member
If you have fuel in the cylinders, and spark at the plugs, then the list is pretty short -- bad valve timing, bad ignition timing, no compression, bad fuel, maybe something not coming to mind...
#25
I’m going to have to dig deeper. I got out the dial gauge and set the timing and still nothing. I pulled the plugs and you can see gas spray shooting out but perhaps it isn’t enough? This is a serious head scratcher. I’ll keep at it and report back.
#26
Instructor
I had a no start problem like this when reviving my 84 944. I found that the two smaller wires that attach to the positive battery cable were loose. Not visably loose, but I guess they were loose enough to only supply intermittant power to the ECU. Once I tightened them the injectors started firing and it started right up. May not be your problem, but easy enough to overlook and to remedy.
#27
I had a no start problem like this when reviving my 84 944. I found that the two smaller wires that attach to the positive battery cable were loose. Not visably loose, but I guess they were loose enough to only supply intermittant power to the ECU. Once I tightened them the injectors started firing and it started right up. May not be your problem, but easy enough to overlook and to remedy.
To verify spark I filmed it and clearly see spark. I have good fuel pressure and what appears to be fuel in the cylinder but maybe not enough? It was mentioned that I may have a drain that is preventing proper injector firing.
Below are a couple photos I took before resetting the ignition timing.
#28
With the DME disconnected and power of unhook all the injectors and see it you have continuity at the injector plug if you do there is a short in the plug wire harness...
insulation gets brittle with heat and as you said you just removed the head so you moved those wires around and so something might be touching now...
insulation gets brittle with heat and as you said you just removed the head so you moved those wires around and so something might be touching now...
#29
I'd suggest you unplug the DME, put the key in the run postion, and use a multimeter to verify that the computer is getting the signals it needs. Ground one probe (DME bracket will work), then test for voltage at pins 37, and 18. they should both have 12V +/- 1. You can test all the grounds too, just set the multimeter for continuity and probe any pin labelled ground on the pinout diagram I posted earier. I had an issue where the car would fire but not start, and it was getting power to pin 37, but not 18. If you rule that out, at least it's one thing checked off the list.
#30
I'd suggest you unplug the DME, put the key in the run postion, and use a multimeter to verify that the computer is getting the signals it needs. Ground one probe (DME bracket will work), then test for voltage at pins 37, and 18. they should both have 12V +/- 1. You can test all the grounds too, just set the multimeter for continuity and probe any pin labelled ground on the pinout diagram I posted earier. I had an issue where the car would fire but not start, and it was getting power to pin 37, but not 18. If you rule that out, at least it's one thing checked off the list.
Pin 30 Shield for knock sensors, hall sender and ground had no continuity but that may be because ground is supplied from the DME?
Pin 48 shield of reference sensor same thing
all other grounds check okay